4.6 to 5.4 swap in progress

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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 05:42 PM
  #31  
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https://www.f150online.com/forums/en...-5-4-swap.html


and please, CTC. . . .
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:08 PM
  #32  
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alright forget the oil relocater, my next stump is the top two trani to engine bolts. How am i supposed to reach those i cant even see them? And do i have to drop the t-case with the transmission after the engine is out?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:50 PM
  #33  
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NO. But make sure you prop the transmission up good. . .
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 02:03 AM
  #34  
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so i do NOT have to drop the transfer case to get the transmission out? Unbolt from the engine, pull the engine out then drop the trani?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 02:11 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JMC
To put the starter back in you need to start and snug the bottom bolt. Just tight enough to keep the starter from moving. Then using a piece of paper jam it between the bolt head and the socket to keep the bolt in the socket. I then use a 6 inch extension on the socket and feed it in by hand. I find that if I lay under the truck and feel the top hole with my left hand fingers I can guide the bolt into the hole.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
Good trick buddy,

Hey how many times did you try it without that little piece of paper before you actually added that in ? How many times did you have to move real quick to keep that Socket & Extension from crowning you in the skull ? That smarts !

I was under there on my custom creeper when that damn thing fell; Oh I was prepared to move real quick just incase (at-least I though I was )

So here it comes, b-lining right for me. Thru my hand out on the passenger side tire for leverage and to push the creeper and I out of harms way.

Well, I forgot to move the damn air hose and it jammed the creeper wheels, therefor I was compromised.

I can still feel that dent in the side of my skull.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Oct 31, 2008 at 08:49 AM.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 02:18 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by FRod
so i do NOT have to drop the transfer case to get the transmission out? Unbolt from the engine, pull the engine out then drop the trani?
No, I don't think so with your model. Do you have a tranny jack or cradle attachment ? You can make one out of scrap wood. You want to keep it from twisting on yuh.

Did you get the top two bolts out yet? I just use a long a$$ extension on those two.

Something you'll want to remember : When all is said and done , with the tranny support cross member totally loose. - The engine must be supported directly under the oil pan (just take he weight off). Then tighten down the crossmember. If not, you can fry a trans before it's time and even the clutch pac in the rear-end. I forgot about that once and the clutch pack let me know every time I made a right hand turn. I had to take it loose again and had to do-over.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Oct 31, 2008 at 06:58 AM.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 05:26 AM
  #37  
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i was able to reach around from the engine bay since my intake is off, i got the two off that way. I got the extended oil filter off! yay! NEXT STEP...NEXT QUESTION, MY POWER STEERING? do i have to drain the power steering and disconnect hoses? Or does it come off. I seriously dont want to try to get those bolts out....
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 05:36 AM
  #38  
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Nope. Position the power steering fluid reservoir and bracket aside. Two 10mm bolts hold the bracket on the bottom. 8mm (5/16) or 10mm bolts on top.

You might wanna bungy cord so that it's facing straight up , it wiil leak from the lid when tipped.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Oct 31, 2008 at 06:03 AM.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 08:08 AM
  #39  
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 08:53 AM
  #40  
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the easiest way for me was to just unplug the hoses, pretty easy, lost a little fluid, owell, saved me alot of time and stress! i just unplugged the hose that goes into the steering box (dont know the name for it) the big thing at the very end of the steering shaft. SOO...Everythings disconnected from the engine, trani bolts are out, flywheel bolts are out, and 2 motor mount bolts are out, ALMOOOST REEEADDDY! Just trying to find out the best way to chain it where it whill bring it backwords instead if straight up cuz ofcourse it will hit the firewall.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:21 AM
  #41  
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jbrew,

Fortunately I learned about the paper socket trick years ago so I never got the socket in the face. Well almost. The problem is when you use too much paper the F'ing socket won't come off the bolt! Then you have to get creative and sometimes the socket flies.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:58 AM
  #42  
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I didnt think the starter was that hard to get off. . .
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Camarothatcould
I didnt think the starter was that hard to get off. . .
Try it with a set of Long Tube headers.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:49 AM
  #44  
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Yea , it gets a little stuffy in there. I'm glad the O2's get set back tho. - easy to get at. One problem - On the passenger side , my O2 sensor ended up right under my AC drain tube . Didn't know what the hell was going on when I started freakin flippin forward codes

Took care of that right quick.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 05:19 PM
  #45  
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thats why im wondering!!!??? Should i drop in the engine and tranny, attach the starter, THAN put the long tubes on? Im buying a brand new starter so i dont have to mess with this again! Also, do i HAAVE to take the tcase with the trani when i drop it, or is there enough room to weasel it out just as the trans?
 
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