Project BULLETPROOF...dream or reality?

Old Jan 30, 2008 | 02:37 PM
  #61  
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Sorry man, looks like that baby is long gone. DOAH!!! Sorry for the tease.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 05:57 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Jackal
Sorry man, looks like that baby is long gone. DOAH!!! Sorry for the tease.
You think your a funny guy dont you????
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #63  
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Cool

HI!... P.I heads are very easy to spot if you can visually see the intake ports. If you can't, all P.I heads have the letters "PI" cast right next to the casting # on the actual heads.

 
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 12:29 AM
  #64  
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Well, to tell the truth the post was over a month old. :o

Neal, I haven't started tearing it down yet. I'm assuming that this doesn't always hold true for the 4.6 heads. At least not on this casting unless I'm just not looking in the right place.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 12:54 AM
  #65  
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HI!... The Windsor 5.4/4.6 use the same heads. Look on the passengers side of the engine just above the most forward exhaust port. Even with the exhaust manifold bolted on you will still be able to read the casting #.

 
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 12:27 PM
  #66  
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Neal, that's exactly where you had me look before and I didn't see it, but it is hard to see in there. The driver's side is a lot easier.

However, this is a Romeo 4.6, so maybe that changes things.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 12:49 AM
  #67  
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HOLY S#!%, just noticed the price on Dynatech longtubes. Is this really my only option for the 4.6? I knew they'd cost more, but 2-3 times as much as shorties? Wow.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 02:33 AM
  #68  
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I think Pacesetter is the only one making long tubes for the 4.6!

Phil
 
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #69  
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Has anyone tried the OBX long tubes on a 4.6L?

Going to call Comp about cams tomorrow and whether or not to go custom grind, 102200, or 102500. Are cams / springs a DIY job? Was thinking about having a local shop do the cam install and valves...gotta see how badly they wanna rape me. Working on a parts list...up to about $1,700 in parts I think. Can't wait to start ordering. This is going to be 1 hell of a job I think. At least I can finally pull those rods out of my radiator. Toryer has a new style mounting bracket for $75.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 10:36 AM
  #70  
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Comp says the 102200 offers more low to mid range performance that the 4.6 could really use, as well as being more aggressive, more noticeable idle, and offers more valve clearance than than the 102500 which is more for mid to top end performance. Looks like I'm going with the 102200 unless someone has anything else to offer...???

I found them for about $510 shipped which I didn't think was too bad.

EDIT: In another thread, and on various google searches, it would appear as though Comp has it backwards in regards to the 102200 / 102500 specs. You just can get good help these days.

EDIT #2: Called back and said that the last guy had it backwards and was told to use neither. This guy said to go with the 102530. Guess nobody knows. I didn't know cam selection was this difficult.
 

Last edited by Jackal; Feb 8, 2008 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 01:50 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Jackal
Comp says the 102200 offers more low to mid range performance that the 4.6 could really use, as well as being more aggressive, more noticeable idle, and offers more valve clearance than than the 102500 which is more for mid to top end performance. Looks like I'm going with the 102200 unless someone has anything else to offer...???

I found them for about $510 shipped which I didn't think was too bad.

EDIT: In another thread, and on various google searches, it would appear as though Comp has it backwards in regards to the 102200 / 102500 specs. You just can get good help these days.

EDIT #2: Called back and said that the last guy had it backwards and was told to use neither. This guy said to go with the 102530. Guess nobody knows. I didn't know cam selection was this difficult.

With the 5 speed I would say that you want more in the mid to top end
 
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 01:22 AM
  #72  
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I still think the 102500 is your best bet. The 102530 appears to not be enough, where as the the 102200 seems to have a higher rpm operating band. I am clearly to expert on cam selection but based on the charts and the 4.10s i believe your getting, I think the 102500 would be for you.

Then again, if they got their stuff backwards then you might be in a tight spot.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 02:51 AM
  #73  
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I think you're right man, they're also the cheapest.

According to this site, it looks like the 100, 200, & 300 are for non-PI heads, and 500, 600 & 700 are for PI. Looks like more lift and shorter duration. Are cams that require stall a no-no for a 5-speed?

http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/...roducts_id=126

Same with this Comp pdf.

http://www.compcams.com/technical/Ca...6-07/62-63.pdf
 

Last edited by Jackal; Feb 9, 2008 at 03:00 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 11:49 AM
  #74  
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How much power do you estimate you will gain when all is said and done? Regardless this will stress the drivetrain. You will be exceeding the limits of the M5OD. Bear that in mind. FYIW I did the 5.4 swap. Nothing but smiles ever since. Mike Troyer did the tunes for it too.....

JMC
 
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #75  
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No idea, but I'd like to see a solid 50-60 RWHP. I thought the M50D could be taken to about 400 or so according to Crash!. I'm sure the gears will help out, but I'll probably run it with the 3:55's for a while. Troyer said it would take him about 18 hours to throw a 5.4 swap tune together and would require a few trips to the dyno. I figure since I already have the PI heads, I'll stick it out with the 4.6. Now if I had to drop $1,200 on new heads on top of everything else, I would have abandoned it. I'm excited as hell, but nervous about the DIY job. I still need to see how much the valve work / cam install will be.
 

Last edited by Jackal; Feb 9, 2008 at 01:57 PM.
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