Fact or Fiction
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: western washington
Originally Posted by jbrew
NO WRONG!
temp? WHAT?
You may get away with tightening by hand - but why ? You have a problem with instructions - Read the side of the filter box - if you can read..
Better watch this poster - What if someone actually believed this kind of sh^t ?
Filter comes lose - they lose their oil - Fry the motor.. I heard of people just hand tightning and getting away with it - IMO - Very stupid thing to do - WHY????
temp? WHAT?
You may get away with tightening by hand - but why ? You have a problem with instructions - Read the side of the filter box - if you can read..
Better watch this poster - What if someone actually believed this kind of sh^t ?
Filter comes lose - they lose their oil - Fry the motor.. I heard of people just hand tightning and getting away with it - IMO - Very stupid thing to do - WHY????
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From: western washington
Originally Posted by worland
Considering the location of the oil filter on the 4.6L & 5.4L enignes, I don't see how it couldn't be full of oil when you start the engine. When I do an oil change, I drain the oil from the pan first. When I remove the filter (doesn't matter which brand I use), it's full of oil.
Of course, I don't buy into the Fram bashing. Been using them for 20+ years and have engines with well over 250,000 miles on them. No problems.
Considering my Dad has an S-10 with nearly 1,000,000 miles on it, and he had the oil changed at a Penzoil joint the entire life of the truck... with their $1 generic filter... I think you guys worry too much about oil filters!
Of course, I don't buy into the Fram bashing. Been using them for 20+ years and have engines with well over 250,000 miles on them. No problems.
Considering my Dad has an S-10 with nearly 1,000,000 miles on it, and he had the oil changed at a Penzoil joint the entire life of the truck... with their $1 generic filter... I think you guys worry too much about oil filters!
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From: western washington
Originally Posted by chug4real
Why not Fram? I've used them for over 75000 miles and no problems. I use the Fram (tough gaurd). Another oil change is due this weekend so since its a hot topic why not use the fram oil filter other than it just sucks. Give some insight to why. I will switch just as soon as i know what the deal is.
Because if you do a search the surface area of the filter media of a fram is about half the area of a quality filter. that can't be anything but good. And the drainback valve as has been mentioned. For less money I can buy a motorcraft filter.. why would I spend more on fram when it has less desirable features?
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From: Seminole
no
Don't remember exactly to be honest when it started! But for personal experience now the filter that i put back on my truck was a WIX which has a anti drain back system inside that seems to help stop the problem I was hearing!! Before, the place where my girlfriend took my truck to get the oil change put the STP filter on my truck.. Lesson learn "Don't let a women to a mans job". Thanks guys for the insight 
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Originally Posted by glc
I've never used a wrench to TIGHTEN an oil filter - and I've been doing this **** for over 40 years. HAND tighten only, as snug as you can get it with your bare hands. Oil the gasket and clean the mating surface with a rag.
Chill out, Jim.......I think you may be the one that's misinformed in this case.
Chill out, Jim.......I think you may be the one that's misinformed in this case.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
Well , I looked it up. I must have been taught wrong at some point in life - I always spun a new filter on and then put a wrench on the filter for the final 3/4 turn. Prolly been doing it that way 15 years..
I looked at the CAT filters, Motocraft Filters and JohnDeere Fliters that are still in the boxes in the shop - Theres picture illustrations on the filters themselves. That really don't explain it.
On the filter boxes , theres a little paragraph on one of the fold-downs directing you the manufacturers manual for instructions to change.
Well , I went to the mauals - - - Hand tighten new filters in place.
Didn't hurt anything , but pride maybe
- Oh well..
I don't think I have ever looked up how to change the oil before - didn't feel the need - but your right - my bad..
I looked at the CAT filters, Motocraft Filters and JohnDeere Fliters that are still in the boxes in the shop - Theres picture illustrations on the filters themselves. That really don't explain it.
On the filter boxes , theres a little paragraph on one of the fold-downs directing you the manufacturers manual for instructions to change.
Well , I went to the mauals - - - Hand tighten new filters in place.
Didn't hurt anything , but pride maybe
- Oh well..I don't think I have ever looked up how to change the oil before - didn't feel the need - but your right - my bad..
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From: Joplin MO
3/4 turn? OUCH! You must be the guy putting the filters on at the factory! 
If you DO use a wrench, because the filter is in a hard to get to place and you can't get any leverage with your hands, you spin it on till it makes contact then go 1/4 turn with a wrench.
If you DO use a wrench, because the filter is in a hard to get to place and you can't get any leverage with your hands, you spin it on till it makes contact then go 1/4 turn with a wrench.
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From: MI
The filter in this 5.4 is the easiest filter I have to change - Don't even have to get on the ground for this one - right there in the fender well. Plenty of leverage. The 4.2 isn't as easy - but not bad. Cats a 4 cylinder generator - John Deere's a lawn tractor, there not bad either..
I'll hand tighten from now on - makes the job easier ..
They'll prolly leak now
Kidding...
I'll hand tighten from now on - makes the job easier ..
They'll prolly leak now
Kidding...
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Maybe not 3/4 if that is too tight. But after you hand-tighten the new filter. You should use a wrench for the final 1/2 turn (minimum wrench turn). I don't care how many years you have doing your oil change. It only means you have not properly installed your oil filter for all those years. There is a Technical Service Bulletin 99-3R1 written in 8 languages on how to do it right for a reason. If you want to second-guess the filter manufacturers council, be my guest.
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From: Seabrook,NH
Originally Posted by Ilovemyford
Maybe not 3/4 if that is too tight. But after you hand-tighten the new filter. You should use a wrench for the final 1/2 turn (minimum wrench turn). I don't care how many years you have doing your oil change. It only means you have not properly installed your oil filter for all those years. There is a Technical Service Bulletin 99-3R1 written in 8 languages on how to do it right for a reason. If you want to second-guess the filter manufacturers council, be my guest.
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From: MI
I looked all over for something to say- use a wrench for the finale turn darnet!! wasnt as lucky I guess . I have all the oil TSB's .. I'm not going to look further because both ways will work. I like the hand tighten way though.
I'll split the difference and wrench 1/4 turn
I'll split the difference and wrench 1/4 turn
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Originally Posted by jbrew
I looked all over for something to say- use a wrench for the finale turn darnet!! wasnt as lucky I guess . I have all the oil TSB's .. I'm not going to look further because both ways will work. I like the hand tighten way though.
I'll split the difference and wrench 1/4 turn
I'll split the difference and wrench 1/4 turn