Fact or Fiction
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by chris1450
like was said.. it is a slow kill. And may never kill it in your lifetime. But why would you buy fram on perpose? Tests show that not only is there anti drainback system inferior, the flitering media is ALOT less than the motorcraft. I have a 1985 ford ranger with 280,000 miles on it and it has seen nothing but fram filters.
I use Motorcraft/Wix in my rigs personally, like mentioned before the price is negligable. I did find it a tad odd that someone with 280k on a truck is bashing the filter he has used to get it there, although if it is a 2.8 there is no hydraulic lifters to make noise if they start dry.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Joplin MO
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
That looks like crap to me.......
Fram Extra Guard PH8A
This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow.
The telltale signs for a Fram Extra Guard are: It has 8 small holes for the oil inlet and a thin, cheap looking backplate, and is currently stamped with a "2Y". There are 5 very small crimps holding the gasket in place. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.
This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow.
The telltale signs for a Fram Extra Guard are: It has 8 small holes for the oil inlet and a thin, cheap looking backplate, and is currently stamped with a "2Y". There are 5 very small crimps holding the gasket in place. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.
Pennzoil
PZ-1
This filter is a Fram Extra Guard (PH8A) in every way, shape, and form. The only difference is the yellow paint, the Pennzoil logo, and the cheaper price.
All the measurements were exactly the same as the Fram Extra Guard PH8A.
PZ-1
This filter is a Fram Extra Guard (PH8A) in every way, shape, and form. The only difference is the yellow paint, the Pennzoil logo, and the cheaper price.
All the measurements were exactly the same as the Fram Extra Guard PH8A.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Troy, NY
Spend the bit of extra money and spring for a good filter. Purolator and Wix are both fine brands, and OEM Motorcraft is good as well(though I've never seen them anyplace but dealers and Wal-Marts).
Fram filters carry a "premium" image and "premium" price, when you get "discount" quality. Crappy, leaky drainback valves, cheap filter element (and not a lot of it), and lower flow. I noticed the oil pressure(gauge on my 93 was converted so it actually works) was lower than usual the one time I used a Fram (AutoZone near me sells EXCLUSIVELY fram stuff, I go to Advance now), it was just on the lower line of "normal" band. Next oil change I put a Purolator in and it returned to the "O" of normal.
Some Wix filters have a nut at the end, which makes getting them off a breeze as well.
Noticed on my parent's 4.0L Explorer it's a remote filter that hangs down, so the oil can't drain out of it anyway. Guess it's more of an issue with straight and V motors where it sits sideways.
Fram filters carry a "premium" image and "premium" price, when you get "discount" quality. Crappy, leaky drainback valves, cheap filter element (and not a lot of it), and lower flow. I noticed the oil pressure(gauge on my 93 was converted so it actually works) was lower than usual the one time I used a Fram (AutoZone near me sells EXCLUSIVELY fram stuff, I go to Advance now), it was just on the lower line of "normal" band. Next oil change I put a Purolator in and it returned to the "O" of normal.
Some Wix filters have a nut at the end, which makes getting them off a breeze as well.
Noticed on my parent's 4.0L Explorer it's a remote filter that hangs down, so the oil can't drain out of it anyway. Guess it's more of an issue with straight and V motors where it sits sideways.
Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 98
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From: florida
Why not Fram? I've used them for over 75000 miles and no problems. I use the Fram (tough gaurd). Another oil change is due this weekend so since its a hot topic why not use the fram oil filter other than it just sucks. Give some insight to why. I will switch just as soon as i know what the deal is.
Suspended
Joined: Sep 2007
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all oil filters are the same
all oil filters internal are the same with normal temp oem, but self install can be really easy with fram tough guard no tools just add a little oil on the gasket and hand tighten no wrench
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 17,118
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From: Burleson, Texas
Originally Posted by eviltesla
all oil filters internal are the same with normal temp oem, but self install can be really easy with fram tough guard no tools just add a little oil on the gasket and hand tighten no wrench
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: The Barbary Coast
Originally Posted by MercedesTech
What about K&N oil filter?
I have K&N. Can't say if it's doing anything special under my hood since I can't see it or show proof. But my truck runs great.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: WY
Considering the location of the oil filter on the 4.6L & 5.4L enignes, I don't see how it couldn't be full of oil when you start the engine. When I do an oil change, I drain the oil from the pan first. When I remove the filter (doesn't matter which brand I use), it's full of oil.
Of course, I don't buy into the Fram bashing. Been using them for 20+ years and have engines with well over 250,000 miles on them. No problems.
Considering my Dad has an S-10 with nearly 1,000,000 miles on it, and he had the oil changed at a Penzoil joint the entire life of the truck... with their $1 generic filter... I think you guys worry too much about oil filters!
Of course, I don't buy into the Fram bashing. Been using them for 20+ years and have engines with well over 250,000 miles on them. No problems.
Considering my Dad has an S-10 with nearly 1,000,000 miles on it, and he had the oil changed at a Penzoil joint the entire life of the truck... with their $1 generic filter... I think you guys worry too much about oil filters!
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
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From: MI
Originally Posted by eviltesla
all oil filters internal are the same with normal temp oem, but self install can be really easy with fram tough guard no tools just add a little oil on the gasket and hand tighten no wrench
temp? WHAT?
You may get away with tightening by hand - but why ? You have a problem with instructions - Read the side of the filter box - if you can read..
Better watch this poster - What if someone actually believed this kind of sh^t ?
Filter comes lose - they lose their oil - Fry the motor.. I heard of people just hand tightning and getting away with it - IMO - Very stupid thing to do - WHY????
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Joplin MO
I've never used a wrench to TIGHTEN an oil filter - and I've been doing this **** for over 40 years. HAND tighten only, as snug as you can get it with your bare hands. Oil the gasket and clean the mating surface with a rag.
Chill out, Jim.......I think you may be the one that's misinformed in this case.
Chill out, Jim.......I think you may be the one that's misinformed in this case.