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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 10:33 AM
  #1216  
Faster150's Avatar
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From: Fort Worth,Tx
Originally Posted by built54
yea a cold start is 100% normal, i can rev it and it never tries to die

so it only has this idle surge problem when its cold? almost sounds like u got a cracked line or gaskets somewhere and the crack doesnt open up till the material gets hot and expands.
ohh and it is normal for the TPS to move around at idle
 

Last edited by Faster150; Feb 23, 2008 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 10:49 AM
  #1217  
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From: Farmington, MO
no, only has the idle problem when hot.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 10:57 AM
  #1218  
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From: NEVADA
Originally Posted by built54
someone help me here. I have been having an issue with it dieing after I rev it, I checked my tps voltage with the ignition, .99 ... I Start the truck, and at idle, the voltage jumps around from 1.02-1.32 constantly.... is that normal??
You might check this in key on engine off, to determine if the sensor is rotating smoothly. Is it possible that the mating surfaces between the TPS shaft and TB shaft have a little space there which will allow the TPS to "float"?
As suggested, recheck 5v source and ground again.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 11:19 AM
  #1219  
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From: Farmington, MO
yea its rotating smoothly. there is no play, i put the tps on from my old engine and it does the same thing. i will recheck that 5v source and ground again.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #1220  
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Damn, I'm thinking those O2's are screwing with yuh again. What kind are you running ? - The OEM's? Did yuh take a peek at em by chance ?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 04:08 PM
  #1221  
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From: Farmington, MO
yeah i took both front o2's out, looked just fine, kinda brown. But I reflashed my tune and it bumped the idle up a little, and it doesn't do it anymore...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 06:58 PM
  #1222  
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Huh, Your running your rear O2's right? Are those new - Since the new motor? If so, I believe their wired the same. You ever try swapping them with the fronts?

If that was even the problem. I kind of doubt it now that I think about it. If they were bad enough to effect warm idle like that , seems like you would have a set fault and produced a MIL...

Oh well, Glad it worked out .

 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 05:23 AM
  #1223  
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From: Farmington, MO
the rear o2's are stock...
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #1224  
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*snicker* my trucks in the shop
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 07:45 PM
  #1225  
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Originally Posted by Klitch
*snicker* my trucks in the shop
Oh Yea
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 08:10 PM
  #1226  
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From: Washington
just gotta button the motor up, missin a few oddball bolts here and there. then i'm off to the fuel pump then the motor swap its self.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 09:32 PM
  #1227  
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From: Delcambre, La
Originally Posted by built54
here is a vid of a hot start, it does this quite often now.
All three trucks I've done the swap on do this... But only when cold!!!!! I've been trying to pin point it but just haven't had time. According to my A/F monitor, the motor goes lean/rich etc.. other than that, I don't know... yet
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 09:54 PM
  #1228  
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hmm strange, mine is only when hot, but it hasnt done it the last 3 days...
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 10:49 PM
  #1229  
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I just paid attention to the boost gauge and the tach. Every time your rpm dropped the boost gage would show no vacuum. You have a leak. it could be caused by the IAC sticking or a hose or fitting that is loose and or cracked. A MAF engine responds to a vacuum leak by stalling or by the idle dropping. Have you looked at the EGR valve lately? A small leak will certainly screw up the idle.

JMC
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 08:14 AM
  #1230  
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From: Delcambre, La
Originally Posted by JMC
I just paid attention to the boost gauge and the tach. Every time your rpm dropped the boost gage would show no vacuum. You have a leak. it could be caused by the IAC sticking or a hose or fitting that is loose and or cracked. A MAF engine responds to a vacuum leak by stalling or by the idle dropping. Have you looked at the EGR valve lately? A small leak will certainly screw up the idle.

JMC

I would think the boost gage nearing zero is a resultant of the motor almost stalling (no spinning) therefore creating no vacum....... I'll have to crank mine up and see if my boost gage does the same thing. I should also say that it'll do something similar if I quickly put it in D after a cold start and start down the road, it'll fall on it's face, then wake up and be fine. There is a gremlin or tuning issue somewhere, but for me only on cold starts.
 
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