2001 4.6L. Just got my e-fans and pulleys, but the directions don't say which way the bolt comes out. The "L" guys say reverse, but I've seen other wise on here as well. Which was is it and how in the hell do you break it loose w/o an impact? I also read something about three bolts that have to come off first??? I don't see any though. Thanks!!!

 

NEVERMIND!!! She popped!!! 5 lb. hammer, (BFH tool) 1/2" drive ratchet, 18mm deep, old bicycle seat post as cheater, PB blaster, put her in 5th. gear and 3 whacks later...she popped. Thanks!!!

 

thanks for what?

you should have used a puller



beating the snots out of the crank is not good

but whatever
...zap!

 

Hahaha...what do you mean should have used puller? You have to take the nut off first, then use a harmonic balancer 3-prong removal kit, not just any puller. I also didn't beat on the crank. Why did you reply again?

 

I've never tried removing the crank pulley bolt without an impact gun. If I had to though, I'd use a long pull handle and put it against the idler or pitman arm or something and bump the starter. Worked on V6 Taurus SHOs.

 

I am trying to remove the crank pulley bolt. How to you keep the crank from moving?

 

FYI Just a some information for future reference regarding hammering on the crankshaft. We have probably all done it to some extent however I have personally seen thrust bearing failures that were related to driving the crank damper on or off using a hammer. The thrust bearing (#5 main) is located at the rear of the crank. When hammering on the damper it drives the crank rearward/forward and can crack the thrust bearing shoulder causing a bearing failure. It is best to tap lightly to just get it started and then use a longer bolt to pull/tighten it on 1/2 inch or so until the original bolt can be started with enough threads without stripping to pull it on and fasten it all the way.

 

I always use an impact, much easier.

 

I just had to remove mine this weekend as I am replacing head gaskets. I removed the inspection cover off the bottom of the bell housing to gain access to the flex plate. I had my son hold a breaker bar inside the bell housing, up against the teeth on the flex plate while I used an 18mm deep socket on a 1/2" long handled ratchet and it turned right off.

Obviously if you have access to air tools, you don't need all that but some of us aren't that lucky. I do have an air compressor, but it is small and puts out just enough CFM's to run my 1/4" and 3/8" air ratchets. I also have 3/8" and 1/2" impact guns but my compressor isn't big enough to run those.




Richard

 

Or if its a one man show like me with no air tools, I used the engine bump method to take mine off, done in two seconds, but be very careful if you go that route...Youtube has a few videos of the engine bump method if you never heard or seen it, some enjoyable viewing.

 

I know of that method too, but don't like it. Has the potential to be very dangerous.

 

I HAD NO IDEA THAT THIS THREAD WAS FROM 2009!!! 😲😂Well, I'm in a situation. I need to remove the boot for the pulley. I've got the entire too half of the motor torn off so I cannot loosen the bolt by bumping the ignition. Which is just as well since, while it is simple, way too many things can go wrong. I dont have anyone with me so locking the flywheel will be difficult. Im going to need a lucky hit on the breaker bar with a very small sledge. Too bad that these aren't designed so you could put a locking bolt through the pulley into the engine.

 

I remember one time my buddy was working on a car in my shop, and he accidentally left an open end wrench in the engine bay. He started his truck up, revs the engine, and the wrench dropped into the fan causing it to become a fast moving projectile. Luckily no one got hurt except a 6 inch gouge in fire rock.

 

I didn't want to read about two guys having a pissing contest .First guy was done .
nevermind!