Yes the Time-Sert p/n 51459 Triton insert will repair the head.
You do need the kit p/n 5553 to install if you don't have it.

http://www.timesert.com/html/triton_repair2.html

 

About a year ago we bought our daughter a 2000 Ford F250 4x4 Superduty 5.4 Trinitron engine truck with an automatic trans for $4200 dollars. At the time, it seemed like a great deal and a solid well maintained truck. she's a pre-vet student, a hard worker and a great kid. She's horse crazy and has two horses so she needs to pull a trailer. We have since fixed blown spark plugs three times at a cost of about $300 a pop. Recently it started making the same "clicking" noise and was ready to blow the #8 plug. The Ford dealer says that the head is gone and damage to the #8 cylinder due to excessive heat. The head is shot and will cost about $5k to fix. We can get a new engine without the problematic aluminum head for $6k with a three year warranty. The truck now has 140K miles. We also just bought a new set of very good tires.

So now it looks like we bought a lemon. Not the first time our family has experienced this with Ford. Needless to say I'm quite angry about the entire thing. Our dilemma is how to proceed. Dare we sink that kind of money into a ten year old vehicle? We have been shopping on line at what we can get for another truck for the same $6K. I'm still looking but it does not look good or encouraging. The entire situation kills me since this nice truck with new tires is now suddenly worthless. Additionally we risk investing this money in the truck only to have the tranny or something else go out the next month.

I'm looking for some opinions and advice on proceeding. Buy a new used truck? Or invest in the new, fixed engine and hope and pray everything else holds together long enough to get her out of college. She's a really unique kid, a hard worker with a big heart and she deserves our support. Right now I'm just gathering information to make the best decision. If we look at a new used vehicle, what years should we avoid to not go through the aluminum head spark plug hell again? She lives in snow country so 4x4 is desirable.

If anyone can give us some insight, advice, direction or thoughts it would be much appreciated. I'm just trying to make the best choice I can given our less than desirable situation.

Thanks so much,

Tim

 

Autozone sells a repair tool kit OEM 25647. The kit contains a tap sized for the original M14 - 1.25 spark plug threads to guide it in correctly then it is tapered to a larger thread to tap out the cylinder to accept an insert, not a heli coil. The kit comes with 3 inserts of different lengths, the longest is used for this application. Liberal application of WD-40 to the tap prior to inserton is highly recommended to catch the aluminum shavings during tapping. Recommend removal of tap after each 180 or 360 degree turn during tapping for insert.Clean off shavings each time spray with WD-40. When tap bottoms out insert tapped threads complete. Start engine to blow out any shavings for a few seconds. Purchase another straight M-14-1.25 spark plug tap @ Autozone with a 3/8 inch extension receptacle @ the top, use to tap/chase all other spark plug holes. Install new plugs using anti-seize thread lubricant Type 13 Sensor Safe, contains copper & resists temperatures up to +2000 degrees F. The tap for the insert is to short & has a 19mm inch bolt head, weld a 3/8 drive 6-8 inch extension to it to utilise. I just performed this procedure on my 5.4, F-150 and it worked fine. Utilize a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer adapter to really ease insertion & removal of plugs & plug chaser. A 1/4 inch thumb round drive ratchet is real handy. #3 plug requires the removal of the fuel rail, by removal of the 2 screw, 10mm, to lift the rail about 1/2 inch. The rest of the plugs can be replaced by removing the coil pack only, observing exactly how it is extracted from the cylinder hole to re-insert. My truck has 108k now, finished this procedure this week, purrs like a kitten. Check gap on each plug prior to insertion. 4-6 hour job in driveway. 2 or 3 step stool allows access from fender area. 3/8 inch & 1/4 inch swivel adapters required. A 3/8 drive 5/8 spark plug socket straight & a 3/8 drive 5/8 socket with swivel required. several 3/8 inch drive 10 inch & 6 inch extensions required & same 1/4 drive extensions with 1/4 drive swivels. I am a computer repair tech, mainframe & PC, programmer & handy man use to elec, plumbing repair, not a automotive mechanic & accomplished the job easily. Patience required! I suspect Ford mechanics desires to replace heads for over heating! Contact me @ mcarew@***.net for info if required or here via thread. Apply silicone 2 coil pack rubber & fuel rail prior to insertion. Use air to clean head area prior to work & blow out cylinders after tapping.

 

I would return to the $300.00 a pop place and have the head repaired.

.

 

#3 comes out fine without lifting fuel rail. I did passenger side without removing rail. I did first 2 on drivers side without lifting rail as well but #7 is a lot easier with the fuel rail lifted. There is a regulator or something on the rail there.

WD40 is not a good choice for collecting shavings. You should use a grease.

 

My daughter with similar interests, right up to having two horses, - one for show, the other to train. We pulled the trailer with the 1/2 ton tho, later she purchased the F250 and still has it as a second vehicle, never ended up pulling anything with since my daughter changed gears and went to school seeking a degree in alternative energy. Since the 3/4 ton likes fuel so much, she worked hard then purchased a 98 Taurus for $800. Although the F250 is sound she was amazed at the money she saved just by driving the Taurus most of the time. She likes the truck and doesn't need to sell it at this time. She would like me to make it into a Mud truck .... Kids

If I were in position I may look for a set of heads on ebay or just pull those on the vehicle and fix if their not warped to bad; might just Timesert in place. BTW that isn't Fords fault, damage was done by another individual that didn't know what he was doing and with Ford, -all heads are aluminum for these models. In 2003 Ford added more threads to our heads, but this didn't happen until later that year. I have the casting numbers and dates now if you decide to seek for these. BUT! I don't think you can use these heads. The 2000 F250 was a non PI engine, - just remember that, - it's important!

Purchasing another vehicle for her is at your discretion, but with an economically friendly auto on the side and in our situation, has worked out for the best.

Good Luck

 

BTW Tim I've seen new heads (NPI's) , crate motor take-offs on ebay for $135 a piece in the past. Look around, - http://www.car-part.com/ sells all parts, but they sell used. If you can fix yourself, you'll save big bucks. This site has many writ-ups to help you along.

 

You are correct about the #3 & #7 plugs. Front of vehicle left 1234, right 5678. Thanks.

 

Ive got an 01 f150 5.4 with bout 120K on it. I had a problem few weeks back where i lost most of my problem and wouldnt hardly go. Got under the hood and seen that the last coil on the passager side add blow the spring out from the coil. So i took out the coil and wasnt much left of it then took out the plug which the tip was bent on it which was very weird to me. So i installed new plug and new coil and it ran like new. Well yesterday on the way home it started acting up again, got it home and figured out it was the same one again so i pulled off the coil which looked ok then went to remove plug and it was just sitting in there not tight or anything. I decided to install a new plug again (motorcraft of course) but its not wanting to thread in. I can turn a few times by hand and it doesnt feel like its grabbing anything then all the sudden it catches on a thread which it seems like and wont move anymore. Theres nothing wrong with either plugs im trying to install. Ive took a mirror and flash light back there but cant really see the threads

 

Prolly time for a Timesert, beast.

 

Thats kinda what i thought but i wasnt sure if what was happening with mine is how it was for others. I emailed GALAXY so im waiting on a reply

 

Hi guys,

2000 5.4 Expedition.

This will be the 1st time changing plugs on this land yacht.

Is 28ft/Lbs still recommended without anti seize? I read about it on {blownoutsparkplug.com} and have seen GLC mention it too.


Thanks

 

Correct.

For the 2 valve, - that's you man

 

Question concerning spark plug replacement. I have a 2003, with the Triton engine. I have replaced all the plugs except the front one, on the right side, facing the truck. The old plug is out, and I can screw the new one in, part way. I used a thread chaser, it goes in completely with no problem. No wrench needed if it is lubed. The new spark plug will not. It will go about 5 threads and tighten up. Is this the famous socket problem? Is there a cheaper alternative to that snap on?

 

Never heard of that, -also, it doesn't make sense to me. - How is that possible unless the plug threads are damaged?