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Do you need to fix a spark plug blow out? Forum members suggest various methods to fix the problem. The methods include:

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        living with ford spark plug blow out problem

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        Old Apr 30, 2009 | 08:12 PM
          #286  
        Galaxy's Avatar
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        Send me an e-mail, or give me a call and I'll give you a price on the 5553 kit that can't be beat, guaranteed...it's what I do! If you don't know who I am, search a few pages back.

        1-888-AMSOIL-4
        amsoil@galaxylubricants.com
         
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        Old Nov 9, 2009 | 06:25 PM
          #287  
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        Angry

        Well, add me to the list! 98 4.6 4x4 (122 k miles), launched #3 leaving a stop light this morning, helluva racket, thought a motorcycle had hit me.

        Heard a swishing sound on Saturday, tried to localize it , thought it was idler pulley and tensioner (both really stiff, bearings shot). Already had suspension parts on order (ball joints, control arms and wheel hubs) following hunting trip this year, then bang! Guess it was blow-by I was hearing after all.

        Local indy shop says they can do the insert (not helicoil), for about $350. Friend has a kit with 3 leftover inserts but he's out of town for a few more days. Deciding if I can wait until he get's back, or if I should suck it up and have shop do it. Only other available vehicle is motorcycle, and it's cold in the morning!
         
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        Old Feb 16, 2010 | 01:13 AM
          #288  
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        From: Stevensville, MT
        New member of this particular club! 5.4L 2003 Expedition, cylinder No.3 at 111,800 miles. A local shop was able to put in a new plug and coil. I drove the family home, about 125 miles or so and now I need to FIX IT!
         
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        Old Feb 20, 2010 | 09:53 PM
          #289  
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        I am now a memeber of this club. Back in October I noticed a ticking sound and knew it was probably a loose plug based on this posts in this forum. The truck had 156k miles on it and never had the plugs changed. When I changed them the #3 plug was loose. I torqued it down and did not have a problem until this past week when the #3 plug ejected.
        I have since purchased a Timesert #5553 kit and plan on installing the insert tomorrow. I am going to try and salvage the COP by using JB Weld to re-attache the broken off bolt ear. Has anybody tried that?
         
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        Old Feb 21, 2010 | 02:45 AM
          #290  
        jbrew's Avatar
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        From: MI
        Originally Posted by moose1
        I am now a memeber of this club. Back in October I noticed a ticking sound and knew it was probably a loose plug based on this posts in this forum. The truck had 156k miles on it and never had the plugs changed. When I changed them the #3 plug was loose. I torqued it down and did not have a problem until this past week when the #3 plug ejected.
        I have since purchased a Timesert #5553 kit and plan on installing the insert tomorrow. I am going to try and salvage the COP by using JB Weld to re-attache the broken off bolt ear. Has anybody tried that?
        Just purchase a new coil, their only 10 bucks.
         
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        Old Feb 21, 2010 | 02:51 AM
          #291  
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        From: Joplin MO
        I bet you used antiseize and didn't torque them to 28 ft/lb.........
         
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        Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:31 AM
          #292  
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        I didn't use antiseize and I torqued to the max 14 ft/lb. Will the threads take 28?
         
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        Old Feb 21, 2010 | 04:07 PM
          #293  
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        glc
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        From: Joplin MO
        14 is why it blew. Retorque them all to 28 before more of them blow. The threads will hold to 100, don't worry.

        www.blownoutsparkplug.com - I think it's FAQ #49. I'd check but the site isn't responding right now.
         
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        Old Feb 21, 2010 | 06:32 PM
          #294  
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        From: MI
        Originally Posted by moose1
        I didn't use antiseize and I torqued to the max 14 ft/lb. Will the threads take 28?
        Don't over torque the coil, the ears will break off. Coils are suppose to ride loose on their bushing. That's why they use low grade 7mm bolts and are torqued in inch lbs, ie very lightly. The bolts will break and strip if your not careful as well.

        How the ears break off, since you have one broken: Some aren't happy with their coils loose and washer up the coil bolt in an attempt to get them tighter. Well, that isn't needed, in-turn, doing so breaks the ear, usually immediately.
         

        Last edited by jbrew; Feb 21, 2010 at 11:53 PM.
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        Old Feb 22, 2010 | 12:10 AM
          #295  
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        It took several hours to install the insert in #3 since I did not have any right angle power tools for the counter bore and reamer. I retorqued all of the pugs to 28 ft/lbs. I used JB Weld on the broken ear of the COP. The cheapest price I found for the COP was $41.00 from Autozone. Who sells them for $10.00?
         
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        Old Feb 22, 2010 | 12:21 AM
          #296  
        jbrew's Avatar
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        From: MI
        Originally Posted by moose1
        It took several hours to install the insert in #3 since I did not have any right angle power tools for the counter bore and reamer. I retorqued all of the pugs to 28 ft/lbs. I used JB Weld on the broken ear of the COP. The cheapest price I found for the COP was $41.00 from Autozone. Who sells them for $10.00?
        Most of us get them from this supplier -

        http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

        You can purchase individually as well.
         
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        Old Feb 22, 2010 | 12:22 AM
          #297  
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        From: Joplin MO
        http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-IGNITION-COI...item5886071f9e

        There's a whole set of 8 for what you would pay for 2 at Autozone and they are better coils with a lifetime warranty.
         
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        Old Feb 22, 2010 | 03:28 PM
          #298  
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        Simple question, probably already addressed somewhere in the piles of threads on this subject. When did FMC address this issue? Meaning, what model year would you need to buy to be generally free from this issue?
         
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        Old Feb 22, 2010 | 04:15 PM
          #299  
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        From: Calgary, Alberta Canada
        Originally Posted by bloody_knuckles
        Simple question, probably already addressed somewhere in the piles of threads on this subject. When did FMC address this issue? Meaning, what model year would you need to buy to be generally free from this issue?
        2004 with the new body style and 3 valve motor. Then there are issues of getting them out. This is true to sometime in the middle of 2008 when they switched to a more normal style of spark plug. In 2008 if you have brown COP boots you have the new plug. I have not heard of any issues with the latest set up.
         
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        Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:39 PM
          #300  
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        From: Fresno
        I'm BACK.

        Back again, but thankfully not for myself.

        In 2003 I repaired my 97 Expy 5.4 #3 plug with a Big-sert 51459. It had 112k on it at the time, and now I've got about 150k. No other problems, knock on wood. I purchased an extra 51459 at the time just in case.

        Yesterday my bro-in-law was changing plugs on his 2003 F150 4.6, and had trouble getting #3 back in. He describes the plug not going in straight and he can't tighten it all the way (socket gets wedged eventually). That's what I remember happening when I tried putting a new plug in before doing the repair. I think he's got thread problems too. What do you think?

        Will the 51459 insert I have work on his 2003 F150 4.6?

        I told him I'd come help him fix it if the insert will fit. My back is already dreading it. Fortunately, he's a diesel mechanic and should have access to some air tools.

        Thanks,
        Dave
         
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