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Did you ever find out what the donor vehicle was for the engine swap? BTW what part of Alabama are you in? I might like to drive over from Mississippi and look a things with you, if you wanted. An old retiree like me don't have a lot tying him down.
Not able to find out the donor vehicle, Third person to own it after the swap. I live in Huntsville, any help is welcomed...
I have a couple of things to consider. ONE. I ran across on thing about the dist mounted ICM, and that is some are gray and some are black, and NOT interchangeable. TWO. This is a link to Identifying the block numbers to the car/truck, and year, https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...ers-1952-1996/ the c5 indicates it is a 1965 . the numbers are located above starter.
the block numbers from an 87 5.0 are : E7AE-CA, E7AE-EA, And E7TZ.
Last edited by somemorebob; Feb 14, 2020 at 03:08 PM.
tpage68, have you ever heard this engine run? As I was looking at Bobs sample, that is for a 260 block, not a 302 as there were no 302s until 1968. You could not combine the EFI of a 1987 F150 and a stock engine of the carbed year models. The cam setup is not compatible. It will never run if you have an early engine that originally had a carb and now have an EFI unit on top of the engine unless the cam has been changed. Almost starting to sound like the engine needs to come apart to see exactly what you have and what year model so you have a clue what to do with it to make it run.
Did a smoke/vacuum test this Sunday. Did have a leak from the EGR, Throttle Position Sensor, and Connector on top of Throttle Body. I did do another test with the EGR blocked off and tried to start, no leak from the EGR and did not start. Here are the images from the test, without the EGR leaking image.
I am usually skeptical of the timing chain having jumped a link, but with the not knowing how much wear and tear is on your current engine, I think it must be considered, especially as to how the problems started. It should be easy enough to remove the #1 spark plug and insert a plastic straw in the hole and it should contact the top of the piston. Get someone to help you rotate the engine with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt until the straw stops rising and then dropping, and rock it back and forth a few times to find the center of stop rise and start fall. At that point the timing mark should be pointed at the 0 degree (TDC) mark on the crankshaft pulley, and the rotor in the dist should be pointed at either the #1 or #6 plug wire contact position. I do believe you would notice any significant departure from those and might well diagnose a problem. I'm thinking that the chain may have jumped 1 notch causing the backfire and bogging and still startinfg with starting fluid, and jumped another when it would no longer start with it.
Last edited by somemorebob; Feb 3, 2020 at 08:14 PM.
Was the 10-12 degrees before TDC or after TDC . !0 degrees BTDC would be good but !0 degrees ATDC would not be good. By it being between cyls 1 and 5 would indicate that it is ATDC which is the bad thing, and I believe you have jumped a couple of notches on the timing chain.BTW I'm impressed that you can type the degree symbol on one of these damned ole puters.
Last edited by somemorebob; Feb 24, 2020 at 04:36 PM.
I am usually skeptical of the timing chain having jumped a link, but with the not knowing how much wear and tear is on your current engine, I think it must be considered, especially as to how the problems started. It should be easy enough to remove the #1 spark plug and insert a plastic straw in the hole and it should contact the top of the piston. Get someone to help you rotate the engine with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt until the straw stops rising and then dropping, and rock it back and forth a few times to find the center of stop rise and start fall. At that point the timing mark should be pointed at the 0 degree (TDC) mark on the crankshaft pulley, and the rotor in the dist should be pointed at either the #1 or #6 plug wire contact position. I do believe you would notice any significant departure from those and might well diagnose a problem. I'm thinking that the chain may have jumped 1 notch causing the backfire and bogging and still startinfg with starting fluid, and jumped another when it would no longer start with it.
The above does not show if the timing chain has jumped. For most BY mechanics, you have to pull the timing cover
Agreed, but would surely diagnose the fact that the rotor is not pointing at the place on the distributor that it should be, which then the logical thing would be to remove the timing cover to see whats going on.
