ECM came in. I was able to re-shape the rubber seal with the help of boiling water and used some JB Weld on the bracket. Will probable add some custom brackets when installing. I also had some rubber gasket/material and made an extra seal for the ECM...



bracket

bracket

custom gasket

reshaped gasket

reshaped gasket

 

Good Luck, I got my fingers crossed for you.

 

ECM in and still not starting. Will turn over and seem to try to start, no luck. But I am now getting codes!

Code #21 ECT out of self-test range (Coolant Tempperature Out Of Range)
Code #24 Intake Air Charge Temperatrure out sensor of range...

 

I just re-read this whole post and this came to my mind. Do you know exactly what year and what kind of vehicle was the donor on the engine transplant, and if the ECM for that vehicle was transplanted too? It would be a shame if has some differences in what part number for the ECM that will work with it. I'm no expert on the 5.0 engines, but i do know that the 5.0 HO engines crank,and cam differences causes it to have a different firing order. so an ECM for one would not work with the other if for no other reason that the injectors would be squirting at the wrong time. Probably not that but worth a thought.******still has a lot of the symptoms of a MAP sensor*** +++++++I'm saying a little prayer for you++++++

 

Thanks, I did try replacing the MAP sensor and it did the same thing, but at the time I was able to crank it with starting fluid.

I did try wiring the firing orders for both 5.0L...

 

trying to think outside the box. when i was a teenage shade tree mech, we had a 56 buick special that would run perfectly then all the sudden shut off. in those days the symptoms were indicative of a bad capacitor in the distributor, or a bad coil. of course we tried both fixes but did not fix probleventually we found fuel starvation as the problem. you could remove fuel pump and work actuator lever and it would squirt fuel. ???? one time i sucked on the line to the fuel tank and a pea gravel got in my mouth. it was acting just like a one way check valve. it would suck up against the pump inlet and stop the flow. taught me to think outside the box when regular diagnosis lets you down.

 

The problem I have now is:

• It is cranking, engine is turning over, and seems to try to, want to, start.
• I try spaying staring fluid and does not even hit/start.

I did a test on all the distributor and it is firing on all 8, at the distributor. Also did a check at the spark plug and it is firing.

With the new ECM I get Code #24, (#22 has gone away), and sometimes code #67 and #33...

I have had to keep the battery on charge, weather here has been hot and cold (life in Alabama). But it cranks, turn over, ok... Have not removed the charger and see if it will hold the charge yet....

 

Still thinking about your problem, and it seems beyond doubt that the problem started with the ECM and all its corrosion. Now it seems that any thing you have changed or tested before the ECM change could be the problem, if that makes sense to you. Maybe go back and re-try some of the changed parts, and re-test all the various sensors. Make sure all connectors are seated good and that they don't appear to be making good contact, like bent or corroded pins. The missing pin on your old ECM is #28 and listed as data+. comes out tan/orange wire. data- comes out pin #9 pink/lt blue. I cant find where they terminate in the engine compartment.

 

#28 (data+) and #9 (data-) are not used for my model, OBD1. I did do a test and made sure I had the correct pins going to the ODB1 plug. It was missing and I replaced it, before the new ECM. Was not getting codes from it until the new ECM....

 

I found in a bronco blog where one guy solved some of his rough running problems by fixing the negative wires coming from the battery. Check to be sure there is a good ground strap from the engine to the body. The #24 code is IAT (intake air temp) sensor is an easy test/inexpensive change. I don't think it is a non starting thing, but I'm not sure.

 

Do not think it would cause the non-starting either. From what I understand, there is an open and close circuit on older models when starting. Open when it is cold, then closed when the engine reaches a certain temperature.

 

So I replaced the coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensor. I plugged them in before installing and ran the test, a couple of times, and the codes went away. Installed them and the codes came back???

Note: Did not replace both at same time. I tested each one before and after installing. Got them in at a separate time.

Though it seems like it want to start more, but no luck.

I also double checked the the timing...

 

Did you ever check the compression?

 

Did you ever find out what the donor vehicle was for the engine swap? BTW what part of Alabama are you in? I might like to drive over from Mississippi and look a things with you, if you wanted. An old retiree like me don't have a lot tying him down.

 

It may need a new timing chain and cam gear. Especially if it has a nylon toothed cam gear. Those are notorious for cracking and coming apart. They were used a lot because the metal cam gear made a whining noise.