Started my build yesterday.

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Old 04-15-2009, 01:55 AM
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Started my build yesterday.

After a couple of weeks reading on here and other forums (mostly ARCuhTEKs, Low E Red, mSall150, JJDH, just to name a few) I started my build. I have a 2007 SCrew Lariat. Here are the goodies:

Premier AVIC-F90BT
JL C2-570x all the way around (plan on doing separates in kick panels later this summer)
2 JL 10w6.V2
LMI rear seat lift
JL 300.4 for the Highs
2 JL 500.1 for the Subs
Rear back up camera
80 ft^2 Damplifier
36 ft^2 Luxury Liner
All stinger wires, rca's, dist blocks from Darvex.com
Custom sub box from my man Paul Bogues at Magnolia Customs in Magnolia, AR. (only man I would let work on my truck other than me)

I wasn't going to do any sound deadening, but figured if I was going to put this much into it, might as well. We are on spring break this week so I hopefully will get most of it done.

First off, let me say that I have no experience taking anything out of a truck. I put on the Saleen exhaust last week and was nervous as heck. But I spent most of the first day stripping the entire interior out. It was fairly easy with the exception of the last bolt that holds the rear seat support bar. after an hour of messin with it, I just left it and decided to work around it. I am gonna put a few pics on tonight, but will try and keep progress updated daily.

I want to thank ARCuhTEK, Low E Red, and a few others. Just reading you guys input on other threads has helped me tremedously.

Lastly: I can not find the thread that somone moved their rear window motor. I searched and searched, but don't see it. Anybody help with that?

Heres a few photos:

My Ride


The pesky bolt that I just couldn't budge


All Clean (im not going to remove the headliner, unless somebody can give me some pointers on getting it off around the sunroof)


Started the Damplifier. Was unsure of myself, but figured out there wasn't much to it. Hope to have it all laid by tomorrow and the Luxury Liner down on the floor.


I didn't have a roller, but it will be here tomorrow. Well thats it, hope to have more accomplished. If anybody has any comments or suggestions, feel free to add your opinions. Reading all your posts is what got me started.
 

Last edited by 7Rook7; 04-18-2009 at 02:16 AM.
  #2  
Old 04-15-2009, 10:49 PM
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Day 2

Glad that today is over. I know it doesn't look like much, but I got all the sound dampening done on the floor and back wall. I got the luxury liner down and put the carpet and center console back in. I was going to put my driver's seat back, but decided to wait until I get my wires ran.

I dont think I am going to have enough Damplifier to do all 4 doors. So which doors should be done first? I am thinking the front doors so the highs will be louder, but the exhaust noise may be real loud in the rear passenger door.

My wires were delivered today so that is my goal for tomorrow. I hope to get into the dash tomorrow as well.

I forgot to take a pic of all the Damplifier laid, but this is starting the Luxury Liner. I didn't get the PRO because I wanted to save that $150. If it is thicker, I don't see how it fits under the carpet.


Here is all the Luxury Liner laid. I had about 1/2 a sheet left when I finished. I will probably split it and put it in my front doors or maybe attach it to the back of my amp board since there isn't any on the back wall.


Got my carpet and center console back in. I finished the floor before I started on the back wall. It may not have been the way to do it, but it broke up the monotony of cutting, peeling, laying, and rolling!!


Here is the back wall finished. I have a few small gaps so I may fill in. Does it matter to have a few gaps in the damplifier?


One last question: The plastic liners on the doors, do I need to reuse those and put them back on over the damplifier? Or should I just throw them away? I am going to put them back on until I get the doors done. That may have to wait until school is out.

I lied one more. when I was taking out the carpet, I noticed standing water in the sill where the wires run down the truck. There was a small hole with a grommet in it. I took it out and all the water ran out. Does anybody else have a leak problem? I didn't notice it, but my carpet had absorbed quite a bit.
 
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Old 04-16-2009, 04:52 PM
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Lookin good so far man. Keep the pictures coming.

As far as the rear window motor, I wanna say it was Msall who moved his? or maybe it was AZmidget or Impact. Those are the only ones off the top of my head who I think have that motorized rear window that we all wish we had...
 
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:08 PM
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Looking good
 
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:16 PM
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JJDH is the one who moved his motor. I searched, but I was also unable to find his pics. PM him and he will help you out.

Secondly, I am glad I was able to help you in some indirect way. You were able to accomplish a LOT more than I was in just 2 days. Amazing. But them again I was working in freezing temps.

Consider, if you will, building around and over the window motor, just as I did. While you wont be able to mount an amp over it, you can make use of the space with wiring or distro blocks.

About your single remaining bolt at the rear seat. That is a two person job. Remember that the factory used lock-tite on the bolt and it is a LONG bolt. It took me a LONG LONG time to get that sucker off. But once it came off, I can get it off and on very easily now. Once my system is "truly" done I will probably put lock-tite back on the threads.

I wanted to leave it alone...but after about 15 mins, that silly seat frame (black piece) kept hitting me in the knees when I crawled in and out and finally I just decided to bit the hard bullet and remove it. I am glad I did. Whatever you do.....do NOT drive around with that bolt missing. Always put it back in when done. I know your truck is not driveable (as I see it in the photos) but just dont drive with it missing.

On and I dont think my thread explains that each and every day I had to REINSTALL most of my interior because I was working at a friends house. So I had to drive to and from his house for every work session. That added a lot of time to my build. Perhaps I should be clear on that to some people, because it probably looks like I am slow as molasses in December!!! LOL

Great job so far!
 
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:18 PM
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Oh yeah.....definitely usethe Damp Pro on the front doors first.
 
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:20 PM
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LOL.....sorry

One more thing. Pioneers are notorious for alt whine. Make sure you either plan on enough wire to ground ALL equipment, including HU at the same distro. block OR you ground the HU directly to the battery post. I am going to go back into my console to do this in a few weeks.
 
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:30 AM
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Looks good so far.

As for the water in the sills, this is a common problem with a leak in the upper passenger dash area under the cowl area of the hood. Some people have had this, and water collects on the passenger sill and soaks up that stock foam crap under the carpet.

Deaden the front doors first, but make sure to do the rears. I heavily deadened my front doors at first, just to find that the mids in my front doors were also capable of rattling the crap out of the rear doors once they were fed 200 watts each.

Oh and throw away that crappy plastic in the doors. Only thing they will do is rattle/buzz. When you put components in, I hope you plan to make baffles to mount to the metal door frame. Putting your mids in the stock plastic location will buzz the door card like mad with high power.

i used the stock gorund on my Pioneer 880prs and have zero alt whine, but it could be different for every application. I dont know if your unit has the pico fuses but if it does, be careful...they blow easily.
 
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:08 AM
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Day 3

Thanks for the replies. I was about to give up on posting until I got your feedback today. Well all my wires are ran. I haven't put the distrubution blocks in yet, but the RCAs, Door speakers, and 0 ga from the battery is ran. I chose to run the power wire across to the drivers side. I bought a stinger 0/1 ga wire kit and it that the flex stuff on the first couple of feet and 18 ft seemed to be just enough to run it that way. I used the big grommet right above the gas pedal to enter the cab. I was concerned about the wire running that close to the engine and headers, so I tucked the wire behind the heat shield down to the grommet (I dont think my pics came out, but it was a PITA to do it alone) Also as I was trying to run the wires down the sills, I decided to take out the little plastic 'trays' that are in there. AMAZING how easy all the wires fit after that. If I decide to add a 4th amp to power some separates in kick panels this summer, there is plenty of room to run another 0/1 wire to finish feeding the dist block.

Well I got my front seats back in, but that was the biggest issue of the day. Before I put my drivers seat down, I figured it would be easier to get the seat belts and B pillars back in. When I went to put the seat belt back into the wall, I COULDN"T GET ANY SLACK!! I didnt know what to do, I pulled and pulled. Tried to stick a screw driver in the edge but nothing. After getting on here to search for some answers, all I found was that they were screwed and had to get new ones. I was sunk. But I went back into the truck and patiently set the retractor upright like it sits in the wall and TA-DAH: slack. I guess the retractors have a balance mechanism in them. After that they went in without a hitch. I took out the stock radio. (is that the factory sirius reciever under the CD player?) if so, I guess that is where i should mount my XM reciever) Are the antannae interchangeable? I havent even looked yet.

Well anyway tomorrow I hope to get the rear seat lift in, my doors back together (i sound deadened my drivers door, but thats all for now. I dont think i can deaden anymore!! ugh) and start on my amp board and install the HU. ARCuhTEK, i probably will run some 8ga from the battery to the HU just to be on the safe side. Here are some pics, the seatbelt thing had me so messed up today, I didn't take many:

My main inline fuse mounted to the underside of the cowl, couldn't find anywhere else. Hope thats an ok spot


Here is where I ran my 0/1 ga under the heat shield down to the grommet


Here are those plastic trays holding the factory wires in the door sills. Hope they weren't important


Not real neat back there, but Im just glad they are finally in!!


Got the radio out ready for the HU!
 

Last edited by 7Rook7; 04-18-2009 at 02:18 AM.
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:16 AM
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Amp rack

ARCuhTEK: That is a real clean amp rack you built! Im definately going to copy it. I probably will go with something thinner (something only about 1/4 inch thick. Masonite? is that what it is called?) Need all the room I can get back there. Also, how and where exactly did you move the security module. I saw where you moved it to the side, but all I see is a ton of wires and plastic connecting joints.
 

Last edited by 7Rook7; 04-18-2009 at 02:18 AM.
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:16 AM
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here is a pic of the result for moving motor. i wanted to keep the seat belt tower.
1 take top 2 bolts out of seatbelt tower.
unclip cables from the tabs on back wall.
un bolt motor from wall.
remove the electrical plug from motor. cut plug off about a foot back. extend the wires. add plug back on.
look at how motor mounts to that frame it has. three t type bolts. these bolts go through the motor and just thread to the frame a few threads. loosen. set frame aside, retighten the three bolts. i may have even flipped the motor over when i moved it to the right. of course u have to mount it to ur backer board.
there is alot of flexability where u can relocate the motor to.
be carefull. do not kink cables. u can get them to horshoe to a pretty tight cuve, just dont square them off.
the cable has to still be in the channel of backwall. now where the cable on the left makes its downturn, i chissled a small groove in the back of my board, about a 1/4inch deep, very easy to chissel the wood.
do a test run once u see where exactly u want the motor, make sure the window opens.
isnt difficult at all. just whenever u move the cables try to always hold the motor at the same time, this way the motor doesnt flop around and hurt cables. i dont type well, so i am at the limit on this post. send pm if any questions.
 

Last edited by JJDH; 04-17-2009 at 02:25 AM.
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:24 AM
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your security module can be moved behind the plastic pillar on the drivers side that has the seat belt going through it. theres enough room back there to remount it and i think there were even holes that lined up just right for it to mount to without having to drill or anything when i moved mine.
 
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:38 PM
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bump
 
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Old 04-17-2009, 09:55 PM
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Day 4

Here comes the rain!!! Luckily my landlord let me pull under his carport and put my door speakers in. I didn't get any photos today because of the weather. I also started putting in my lift kit from LMI. I will get a few pics of this up on sunday. Saturday is softball day and eventho it is raining, we got a tournament to play in. The lift kit is well built, but needs slight refining. But it is amazing what extra room it puts under the back seat. Im 6'4 and can sit back there (but since it is my truck, i will be in the front)

The HU will have to wait until sunday also.

JJDH thanks for the pics on the window motor. It looks like i will keep it in the center and build over it. Im thinking that i will be able to put both 500.1s on one side and the 300.4 and a 300.2 (the 300.2 will be a future amp for when I add the components to the fronts) I will put my dist blocks in the center to cover them up.
 
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Old 04-17-2009, 10:16 PM
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Here are a few pics showing the security module relocated.





 


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