By the way....are you using stock speaker wire? It did not appear so, and i was wondering if you had to deal with the molex plus at your front door jambs?

 

I saw that in your build thread and immediately ran out to my truck to check my jambs and fortunately no molex!! Im running 14ga stinger twisted pair HPM (i think) its great for trying to run in tight spots, but was a PITA trying to get the clear outer layer off without cutting into the jackets covering the individual wires.

And thanks for the pics of the security module. it showed me how and more importantly where exactly to put it.

My air bag light keeps flashing on my dash. Anybody know why? it wasn't doing that before i took everything out. im sure ive got something unplugged. im not real worried just yet since i still have things undone

 

You lucky bastard.

My speaker wire is the same thing as you have...I noticed that earlier. Yes its a PITA to strip the clear off. But I got pretty good at it.

 

how come some of the trucks have the plastic molex in the doors and some dont? mine doesnt but some of the others on here do. is it because there manufactured at different plants or the options that you buy them with?

 

I have read many threads on the molex issue and best I have read thus far is that if your truck was produced in Dearborn plant then you are owner of molex. If not, you are lucky (so far as car audio goes).

Perhaps there is a difference in industrial equipment between the various plants that cause a change in how the truck is prepared and in Dearborn, that means molex plugs in door jambs.

 

Well I guess progress has grinded to a crawl. I feel that I am around 75% complete. I got my XM installed and all the wires ran for the HU. I got the HU temp in with a couple of screws to see if she would fire up. Came right on. I did the hardware bypass by moving the mute wire and grounding it with the green emergency parking brake wire. But it didn't work. As soon as I took off driving the DVD quit playing. I will go back and check all the wires again tomorrow. I am also headed to Magnolia Customs to let Paul start taking measurements for the sub box to see if we can port the subs (I cant help it, im a bass head!!) I have to get the wood for the amp rack and the washers to finish tightening down the rear seat.

I didn't want to put the xm antannae on the outside, so i put it and the gps antannaes up on the dash in the middle. I ran the wires through the dash and up through the defrost vents. I forgot to take a pic, so ill post it tomorrow.

I have a rear camera to install as well. Where is the best place to run the video wire from the camera up to the cab. It is the kind of camera that mounts to the license plate. Also, where is the best spot to wire the red/black power wires? I haven't searched yet, so i will probably find the answers on here. Another update with hopefully some amp rack or sub box photos tomorrow!!

My door speakers (JL C2-570X)


The big hole that a small bolt was supposed to hold in place. Have to get washers tomorrow @ hardware store.


My XM reciever mounted underneath the HU


HU temporarily in place. Stupid hardware bypass!!!

 

Man, honestly I think you cheaped out on the speakers. You did a great job deadening and making the truck quiet, take advantage if that with some high powered, time aligned separates on active crossovers. It makes a HUGE difference and will give you much better imaging.

Otherwise its looking great!

 

As far as the back up cam goes, we usually ground to the frame somewhere near the back (up and out of the way of course as to avoid any issues with water and what not). We use regular wire loom (same stuff the factory uses) to wrap our video and power wire. If you crawl under the truck, there should be a thick loom of wire running from the rear of your vehicle up to the front. We usually try and follow that, and use zip ties to attach to the factory loom. I personally put the factory loom between my loom and the road as another deterent from damage from water/road debris. You could always use the techflex as well if you have some leftover. Some vechicles have a grommet in the drivers floorpan that you can come through, some you have to drill your own hole (unibit FTW). Lookin good so far man.

 

Another thing you can do is tap into the ground in the harness for the trailer.

 

Thanks sundevil.... well i didnt get too much done today. ran out of daylight. but i figured out why the hardware bypass wasn't working: I didnt have the AV harness plugged into the back of the HU. plugged it in and it works great! I was going to get the dash all put back together, but I got the wrong antannae adapter so it will have to wait until wednesday.

I have a bass **** for the JL amps that i needed to mount somewhere. The perfect place had to be between the cig lighter and the backup sensor button on the center dash.

I put the pic of my XM and GPS antannae on the top of the dash up by the window. I still dont have the magnetic plate permanently mounted just yet.

I started cutting my back amp rack board, but my jigsaw battery died. Its charging and will be getting it finished tomorrow.

So hopefully I get the amp rack and back seat finished up tomorrow and hopefully some sound by wednesday. The sub box on thursday and finally completed on friday.

antannae on the dash


my sub **** mounted on the front dash

 

Im outside working on my amp rack right now, but had a question I need answered. I plan on grounding my amps to the same bolt that ARKuhTEK and mSall150 have used. Have either of you had any issues with that spot? Did you guys do any prep work to that bolt? Where did you other guys ground out that mounted your amps behind the seat? Thanks. Back to work and will post pics tonight.

 

Have had zero issues with that bolt, no floor noise or ground loops at all. For prep i just pulled it out and cleaned the area thoroughly with acetone and alcohol.

 

i dont kno bout the spot with the seatbelt bolt.. low e says no good. under neath the truck there is a gusset or hallow rail that covers the bottom of the seatbelt bolts. in that on the far passenger side is an egg shaped hole, what i did was drilled a 1/4 in spotter hole, then rouned out the oval hole with a unibit big enough to get a socket in, i then used jl audio master ground lug, it is basically a nickle plated bolt, that has a nut on top and bottom. doing it this way it can be bolted tightly, and also accept more than one ground. this is overkill, but it is done right, i dont have to worry bout ground being a prollem.

 

No problem man. Anxious to see the new pics...Post up if you've got any more questions.

 

Why didnt you put the GPS antenna on the U bracket behind the HU and then use the Sirius antenna for your XM? That would clear everything up.

I really am against Seatbelt bolts or seat bolts for grounds. Many MANY MANY times they are intermittent and most end up with very high resistance after a while. I used the floor of the truck and a thick bolt of MINE with a star washer and nut. And a little locktite and dielectric/silicon.

I LOVE THE W6v2's. Nice choice.

And for your BU cam check the rear sills. There is a grommet on both sides. I normally use the wires from the hu for +/- the cam.