I have a 500.1 on each of the 10w6s. the 300.4 is powering all my door speakers. the 300.2 will power some 3 ways that i plan on putting in the kick panel/ a pillars (not sure exactly where just yet)



The complete seatbelt that i bought is not used together. The manual adjustabe strap is used for the center seat. The latch that came with it is used for the drivers side belt. So basically just buy a set (the website I got mine from has tan also, i think that is the color of your interior if i remember correctly) then attach both sections to the spot that you had to take out the original center strap and buckle.

ARC: I saw on your DIY page that you had some adapter rings for your 5x7 door openings. Why did you decide to make your own? I have only sound deadened my drivers door and still have to go back and do the other 3 and do some more to the drivers side. I pretty much watch what you do then try and copy the best I can

Queston for all you more knowledgeable than I: How do I figure out what my subs are tuned to? Im just curious

 

did this build get done?

 

I, and most will probably agree, would either:
A) Scrap the rear speakers and bridge the 300.4 to the fronts, and sell the 300.2
B) Throw the 300.2 on the rear speakers if you must, and still bridge the 300.4 to the fronts.

Kick panel speakers are not always the best option, and the prefab enclosures leave alot to be desired. But you might have fiberglass fab skills I don't know about, so that may turn out to be a fansastic option.

You're subs arent tuned to anything per say, that would be the inclosure - for general refrence only a concern for a ported application.
Also don't port those W6s, you don't have enough airspace under that rear seat for 2 at a nice low freq.

 

Wow, I am flattered.

I didnt use the adapter rings because they were too small for my Legatia L6 midbass. Since they were aluminum, I decided not to try and cut the aluminum and just make my own from scratch.

 

I got away from my build for a while because it was bumming me out. About 3 weeks ago my HU crashed (common problem with the F series accd to avic.com) i sent it off and got it back with no problem, but it was just frustrating. Plus i went up to Omaha, neb to the college world series to watch my Razorbacks finish in the top 4!! (if you are a sports fan and have never been to Omaha, I highly recommend it)

So this weekend I will attempt to install my PAC remote unit and get my HU back installed

 

have u test fit ur back seat rest yet with the amps on the wall? i only ask because the amp on the far passenger side might stop it from going all the way back because of the frame on the seat...

 

I had my HU installed, put the PAC remote unit in (which was extremely easy and worked fine for me) even had time to hook up my rear view camera.

Had it in for about 12 days. Then last night me and some friend go to Lynyrd Skynyrd/ Kid Rock concert in Dallas. I leave my truck in the "VIP" parking area about 100 yards from the entrance to the arena. Come back 4 hours later, open my door and my HU is gone and a ton of wires are running out my passenger door. There was no signs of forced entry. I am 100% positive I locked the doors. I always lock my doors. Really sux. It isn't so much that it got stolen, its the hard work put into it that disheartened me.

So back to the drawing board: I NEVER used the navigation on the thing. So im pretty sure im going to go with the pioneer AVH-p4100. I dont think I would use the 6 disk changer on the 6000. the 4100 seems to have all the features that i use (ipod controls, dvd, bluetooth, touch screen) so for about $400 bucks i will try this again in a few weeks.

I HATE THIEVES!!!!

oh and im going to install a remote start up and alarm.

 

dude that build is sick! mine is pretty similar but only with two amps not 4! any my box pretty much takes up the whole back area of my truck tho, check out my gallery.

 

My dad had his truck broken into in our front yard 2 days before I had my HU delivered to my front door. We both went down the next week (before installing the unit) and had alarms with remote start installed. Sadly I went with Cartoys and was completely disappointed with the install, 7 months later and I still have to take it back in to get the remote start working properly. Just make sure you trust your installer. I got some pricey items in the truck.
6 weeks ago my dad left his truck unlocked and they took his briefcase. I honestly think the little blue blinking led is the better protection than the siren on it.

Love the build.

P.S. You were in my back yard for that concert. Why did I not hear about that one....?

 

Just got away from messing with my truck for a long time now. Wasn't giving 110% so didn't want to do a crappy job on anything that I would go back and redo once I got the fever again. So next weekend I intend to finish my doors and replace all the 5x7's with 6.5 components (JL XR650-csi) in the front and 6.5 coax (JL XR650-cxi) in the rear.

Yes I do have to do some slight adjusting to the amps to make the back seat work. Just need to squeeze about 1/2 inch on each side so the top rounded corners of the round frame tubing inside the seat back wont catch the top edges of the outside amps.

Had a CodeAlarm (cant remember the model) Alarm/Remote start up put on yesterday. Installed a plasmaglow fire/ice light bar for kicks and giggles under my tail gate. Also stuck some chrome turn signals in the head lights. That may be my favorite small upgrade. Most people dont notice them, but I think it makes a noticeable difference. Well pics of the build will be coming within the week of some of the little mods and then the doors next weekend.

 

Sucks to here about the AVIC man. Did you end up going with the 4100?

 

Yeah, I went with the 4100. The only thing I don't like is that it doesn't have the voice recognition when it comes to your iPod. It was really a handy thing on the AVIC when you got 2000 songs on your iPod. But other than that, I like it better than the AVIC. That start up time was a pain.

Question on door speaker installs. Ive seen these waterproof foam baffles that you can install behind your speakers. Are these crap or are they worth the 10 bucks? And do they help with keeping the sound from your speakers inside the cab and out of the doors? Just always see people complaining and trying to figure out different ways to solve sound issues in their doors, this option just kinda crossed my mind.

 

dynamat the inside of the door skin and the inside/outside of the frame and you'll be okay. Ive seen a couple on here make baffles out of MDF, that would be the way i would go. I wouldnt worry about water proof anything...unless you plan on fording some rivers.

 

Check out my tutorial on door treatments for some ideas to get the best sound from your speakers.

 

Awesome tutorial. Im going to attempt most of it this weekend. Question mSall150: How important do you think it is to cover the hole in the door? I just dont want to have to undo it if something happend to a window motor or something.

Yes, I'm actually trying to get this year long stero install finished. Ive got everything purchased finally. Now to get it all in. Stupid cold, wet weather.