Well not just color, but all sight. I see 20/400 that means i can make out the big "E" on an eye exam. I have always enjoyed this stuff so i get around preety good. I installed SC myself so I'm not completely without skills. My wife gets all the fun of driving

 

here



I finally got around to moving my temp sensor over to the rad hose today. I'll report back after a few days after I see if works better out there.

 

Well possible issue. I'm throughing codes 480 & 528, both dealing with fan speed or fan circuit voltage. Its something to do with the electric module attached to the fan being not plugged in.

Anyone else have that issue? I e-mailed Troyer to see if he can delete them in my tune.

Strange thing is they didn't show up until a reprogram today to my winter tune. About ten DTC's showed up after tune, but only the two + 1000 stayed after clearing DTC's out.

Here is a pic of what was attached to the fan clutch. I hope Troyer can make tunes not display these. Truck seems to drive without CE light, but I was thinking after x #'s codes it came on?

 

Drive it ! My 07 has had that code ever since I unhooked the fan and put the e-fans on. The PCM thinks the fan isn't working (it isn't), but it never trips the cel at any time, and no difference the way it runs, so as far as that code goes, just ignore it unless it does set the CEL on, then, I don't know

 

What about all the DTC's after reprog that i had to clear? 10 in all. Everthing from rev limited to forced engine shut down.

Maybe it just through every system check after fan as an error since it failed fan check?

Truck is running fine after clearing with only DTC's 1000, 528, & 480 remaining. 1000 should go away in a few days.

 

You should be ok 's-r', can't tell why you had all of those codes come up, but, ya I have the same codes all the time without any CEL light. I don't know if that can be 'programmed' out or not. maybe there is a resistor or something that could be used to get rid of the code, don't have a clue though, other that I know it doesn't hamper the truck at all.

 

Hey twinskrewd is that core support cap what came factory in your truck? I'm talking about the part that joins the top of rad with the core support. Mine doesn't look like that. Yousr looks as if it would seal better.

 

Mine is also different than his, on my truck its larger going from fender to fender and looks as it goes farther back towards the engine. I had to trim some of the ribs on my fan assy. to get it to fit a little flatter to the fans.

Tim

 

Yes all is stock. Btw sugar-rush if you pm me I can help you with mounting the intercooler tank. In-fact if you will shoot me your address I will drop you a braket in the mail to properly support it.

Install note update Do not tap into the air conditioning line in the harness running to the compressor. When the compressor kicks on and off there's a magnet that engages and disengages. Theres voltage that can travel back from this thus frying the box. Also while at Troyers for tuning we noticed my air fuel ratios going nuts for a few secs when the fan turned on and off. We believe this to be due to where I tapped in for ignition switch power. That being said you can find the air conditioning signal wire on the drivers side located by the air box inlet in the fender. There is a small black box over there with a harness going in. Here you will find the ac wire I described earlier grey with white tracer wire. This is the proper place to tie in for air conditioning signal. You can pull switched ignituon current from the old clutch fan plug via the yellow with green tracer wire. Also the VSS wire is located in the radio harness and this is where you will need to tap in. The wire going to the throttle pedal is not correct.

 

Thats some good info there that I will have to check into. I tied the AC wire like all others have by the passenger valve cover. Don't want to fry the Painless controllers. I just installed my fan again yesterday but hadn't hooked up the VSS yet, got a new stereo coming and will do it then. Thanks for the info.

You got a picture of that bracket you made for the intercooler tank, just trying to get an idea.

Tim

 

Sure. I'll post up later this evening.

 

Thats good to know, I mounted my spal unit right under the air filter so I can go right there to tie in for the A/C.

 

Instead of doing an A/C wire tap with speed overide why not use a pressure switch on the high side of the A/C? The electric fan could be set to come on at something like 250psi and off around 180psi. When driving the high side pressure would be held down by the airflow generated with the truck moving. Once you come to a stop the pressure would build until the fan kicked on @ 250psi. Another advantage to doing it this way is the fan would run less in cooler weather.

 

Hey twin. You think you could put up a few detailed pics of where you tapped into the wires and perhaps a video ?? Would be extremely helpful. Thanks!!

 

The speed sensor should be in place no matter what. Has nothing to do with the ac. It has to do with the fans not trying to run due to temps when there is sufficent air flow due to vehicle speed. As for the pressure sensor idea. Idk sounds a bit more costly. And if the brain of the system (controller box) isn't programmed to read it then it won't work. Unless I'm missing something. Cool idea though.