Need help on my newest problem, @$%(@#$%$. Please read.
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From: Selden NY
Need help on my newest problem, @$%(@#$%$. Please read.
THIS IS ONE OF THOSE "THINGS" THAT CAN BE ANY AND EVERYTHING
PLEASE READ THIS AND IF ANYONE HAD A SIMULAR ISSUE PLEASE POST IT
Changed to 60's and put Mag back on last weekend
(this is when the prob started)
Got a new tune from Sal and all was well, starts right up, runs great, drives great, but I had a slight dead spot on light throttle,
(was of course never there before)
Ok this little dead spot was exactly that, when stopped and you gave it easy normal pedal, you would feel it boog down, like it was not take the gas, or too much gas, and then like someone clicked a switch it all of a sudden go back to normal.
If you hit it hard from a stop or roll you would'nt know the issue was there, and off you would go sideways roasting the tires through 3 gears
So I stopped at PSP, (THANKS SAL
)
Even know he's absolutely swamped he still spent A LOT of time on the truck and we went over everything. First thing we found as we started checking the wiring was as soon as we pulled the 3rd coil plug off on pass side the frigging wire was no longer attached to the coil plug connector
($%@$()%@$)%@$)@$@#^$%(@#$%(#@$%(#@$%#($(#$
BTW, this is now the 2nd wire those POS solderless connectors for the PB have chopped in half, (it's a stab though tee, once on stays on) NOT an easy task getting in there to repair it, but Sal managed.
I assumed this was my problem and we're good now, (NOT)
So Sal hooked his hand help "thing-a-ma-jig" up and looked at what was happening as he drove it. No codes, nothing pointing us in the direction of the problem, BUT he did find when it was bogging down the system would show a 70% load, and even know you were only rolling at maybe 2 mph and barely touching the pedal, the Boost guage would shoot up to 5 or 10 lbs of boost (even know you were harldy moving an inch and harldy touching the pedal)
This is very weird since the boost guage can only show boost if your making it ??? and shouldnt be at that point ??? Sal pulled the Vac line off the Boost Acuator and it seems the issue goes away, or at least did while we had it off. The problem is it seems each time you shut it off, and then restart it, it's ok for a little while, and sometimes doesn't do it at all. Never seems to do it when it's cold either.
But on the ride home from Sals it got worse and worse and worse till it got to a point it was pretty much undrivable. Once you stopped, and then tried to take off again, it would just absolutely refuse to take the gas. It will bogg down, studder, and I was convinced I was calling a tow truck. It also seems to do it automatically when you make a turn now ????
I managed to idle off the stop signs and feather the pedal until I was moving enough to get past it ??? "IT" being WHO THE FK KNOWS ????
PLEASE READ THIS AND IF ANYONE HAD A SIMULAR ISSUE PLEASE POST IT
Changed to 60's and put Mag back on last weekend
(this is when the prob started)
Got a new tune from Sal and all was well, starts right up, runs great, drives great, but I had a slight dead spot on light throttle,
(was of course never there before)
Ok this little dead spot was exactly that, when stopped and you gave it easy normal pedal, you would feel it boog down, like it was not take the gas, or too much gas, and then like someone clicked a switch it all of a sudden go back to normal.
If you hit it hard from a stop or roll you would'nt know the issue was there, and off you would go sideways roasting the tires through 3 gears
So I stopped at PSP, (THANKS SAL
)Even know he's absolutely swamped he still spent A LOT of time on the truck and we went over everything. First thing we found as we started checking the wiring was as soon as we pulled the 3rd coil plug off on pass side the frigging wire was no longer attached to the coil plug connector
($%@$()%@$)%@$)@$@#^$%(@#$%(#@$%(#@$%#($(#$
BTW, this is now the 2nd wire those POS solderless connectors for the PB have chopped in half, (it's a stab though tee, once on stays on) NOT an easy task getting in there to repair it, but Sal managed.
I assumed this was my problem and we're good now, (NOT)
So Sal hooked his hand help "thing-a-ma-jig" up and looked at what was happening as he drove it. No codes, nothing pointing us in the direction of the problem, BUT he did find when it was bogging down the system would show a 70% load, and even know you were only rolling at maybe 2 mph and barely touching the pedal, the Boost guage would shoot up to 5 or 10 lbs of boost (even know you were harldy moving an inch and harldy touching the pedal)
This is very weird since the boost guage can only show boost if your making it ??? and shouldnt be at that point ??? Sal pulled the Vac line off the Boost Acuator and it seems the issue goes away, or at least did while we had it off. The problem is it seems each time you shut it off, and then restart it, it's ok for a little while, and sometimes doesn't do it at all. Never seems to do it when it's cold either.But on the ride home from Sals it got worse and worse and worse till it got to a point it was pretty much undrivable. Once you stopped, and then tried to take off again, it would just absolutely refuse to take the gas. It will bogg down, studder, and I was convinced I was calling a tow truck. It also seems to do it automatically when you make a turn now ????
I managed to idle off the stop signs and feather the pedal until I was moving enough to get past it ??? "IT" being WHO THE FK KNOWS ????
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From: Selden NY
Got home re-adjusted the Boost Acuator. took the Boost bypass off thats been on since 02. Also checked, moved and touched all those POS connectors that are cutting my coil Plug wires in half
(@$%)@#*$T@#)$#@$) Took it for a ride and WAM perfect : o )
OR SO I THOUGHT
After @ 10-15 minutes it started up AGAIN, and as bad as ever
NAME THAT PROBLEM ?????
My thoughts:
Since is was showing boost when you werent into the boost, could it be a Acuator problem ???
If it is, would it do that, refuse to take the pedal, and bogg down,
I dont think so ????
Is it another one of those frigging POS connectors has cut another coil wire
If so why wouldnt it do it cold ???
I dont think so here either ???
Plus at it's worse on the way home, as said it wouldnt even take ANY PEDAL, and 1 cylinder kicking in and out wouldnt do that.
Could it be I have some kind of slight vac leak or a gasket that maybe didnt seal right when I put the upper or SC back on.
Ok this might explain why it doesnt do it at first, and then does it more as it warms up, but I have perfect Vac (20), and that never changes on idle, even when hot and the problem is there. We even made a few hard dyno pull and had the identicle numbers I had before, so no lose of power either, just refusal to take the pedal off idle. (as said, once you get past it, the truck runs frigging awesome)
So what does one do next ???
BESIDES SELL THIS POS AND LOSE @40K
@^#($(@#$^(@#$(@#$(@$#^*@#$(@$#^@$
I'm betting on it being electric / ignition related
Ya I can try and install a complete new harness since those fking POS connectors have now managed to destroy each and every coil wire. But I'd prob have to take 1/2 the motor apart to do it @&(@^%$(@&$%#$^(@$#(@$%@($%#@$
Just incase does anyone know where I would find one with all the Coil Plug Connectors attached to it ??? I dont even want to think about how hard that job would be, I should sue those SOB's at Ignition Solutions for suppling those POS connectors, the PB is long off and in the garbage, but as said the connectors are on forever unless you cut the wires and solder them back,
pretty much impossible to do on the back cylinders : o (
AND LAST
Any strange chance this could be battery related ???
I've heard some weird stuff happen to L's when the Battery is not 100%,
Mine has never NOT started, never been a problem, but the red button has been up for @ 1/2 a year now. Chris has a issue that drove him crazy for
@ a year, changed exhaust, changed alt, changed plugs, filters, chips, tuners, etc, and it ended up being a battery, even know there was no indication it was bad ???
At this point I really cant see this truck ever giving me back what I want out of it anymore. And I fear the disappointment and let downs will have me dumping it very shortly if I cant figure this out. I cant even look at the fact I would lose 4 full years of 6K a yr already paid in payments, the 10-15 K total that I put in it over the 4 years, the fact I prob still owe over 15K and have 2 years left of payments (^@%@$%@$^%@^$%(@$^%(@$%(@$%(@$^%(@^$%(@^$%(@$^%(@ $^%@($^%(@$^%@(&$^%@($&
But Man I got to tell you, ALL THE FUN IS GONE.........................
OH YA
We wanted to see how the plugs were doing after a few hard WOT runs so we made those hard WOT runs on the Dyno and pulled the plugs.
To make my day even better, two plugs cracked Porc
@$%@$%@$(%@($%@($%@($%@*$(&%@*$&^%@$*(&^%@$*^%
However, the good news is the plugs are burning great, no more 1/2 the plug reads one way, and 1/2 the plug reads another. No more signs of detonation, no more burnt plugs, and most important, EACH AND EVERY CYLINDER IS BURNING AND LOOKING THE SAME, -->"FINALLY"<--, WOO HOO.
The new Injectors have def fixed those 4 problems.
The better good news is the two cylinders that had slight hair line cracks in the porc were two cylinders that NEVER gave me prob before. And the best news is Cylinder 1 and the other constant plug burners, were ALL PERFECT and looking fine..... This is very good news.
We did turn the Timing up to try and squeeze more out of the Mag, (which it didnt, as usual it actually lost power at a mere 18 degrees compared to 16) So the two hair line cracks may have been due to that.
WISHFUL THINKING ON MY PART....
Either way NO MELTED PLUGS, NO BURNT PLUGS, NO GREEN PLUGS, NO PLUG DIFFERANT THAN THE NEXT, just two hair line cracks (and no missing pieces).
I CANT TAKE ANY MORE OF THIS I TELL YOU *@$*(@$%(@$%(@$$
(@$%)@#*$T@#)$#@$) Took it for a ride and WAM perfect : o )
OR SO I THOUGHT
After @ 10-15 minutes it started up AGAIN, and as bad as ever
NAME THAT PROBLEM ?????
My thoughts:
Since is was showing boost when you werent into the boost, could it be a Acuator problem ???
If it is, would it do that, refuse to take the pedal, and bogg down,
I dont think so ????
Is it another one of those frigging POS connectors has cut another coil wire
If so why wouldnt it do it cold ???
I dont think so here either ???
Plus at it's worse on the way home, as said it wouldnt even take ANY PEDAL, and 1 cylinder kicking in and out wouldnt do that.
Could it be I have some kind of slight vac leak or a gasket that maybe didnt seal right when I put the upper or SC back on.
Ok this might explain why it doesnt do it at first, and then does it more as it warms up, but I have perfect Vac (20), and that never changes on idle, even when hot and the problem is there. We even made a few hard dyno pull and had the identicle numbers I had before, so no lose of power either, just refusal to take the pedal off idle. (as said, once you get past it, the truck runs frigging awesome)
So what does one do next ???
BESIDES SELL THIS POS AND LOSE @40K
@^#($(@#$^(@#$(@#$(@$#^*@#$(@$#^@$
I'm betting on it being electric / ignition related
Ya I can try and install a complete new harness since those fking POS connectors have now managed to destroy each and every coil wire. But I'd prob have to take 1/2 the motor apart to do it @&(@^%$(@&$%#$^(@$#(@$%@($%#@$
Just incase does anyone know where I would find one with all the Coil Plug Connectors attached to it ??? I dont even want to think about how hard that job would be, I should sue those SOB's at Ignition Solutions for suppling those POS connectors, the PB is long off and in the garbage, but as said the connectors are on forever unless you cut the wires and solder them back,
pretty much impossible to do on the back cylinders : o (
AND LAST
Any strange chance this could be battery related ???
I've heard some weird stuff happen to L's when the Battery is not 100%,
Mine has never NOT started, never been a problem, but the red button has been up for @ 1/2 a year now. Chris has a issue that drove him crazy for
@ a year, changed exhaust, changed alt, changed plugs, filters, chips, tuners, etc, and it ended up being a battery, even know there was no indication it was bad ???
At this point I really cant see this truck ever giving me back what I want out of it anymore. And I fear the disappointment and let downs will have me dumping it very shortly if I cant figure this out. I cant even look at the fact I would lose 4 full years of 6K a yr already paid in payments, the 10-15 K total that I put in it over the 4 years, the fact I prob still owe over 15K and have 2 years left of payments (^@%@$%@$^%@^$%(@$^%(@$%(@$%(@$^%(@^$%(@^$%(@$^%(@ $^%@($^%(@$^%@(&$^%@($&
But Man I got to tell you, ALL THE FUN IS GONE.........................
OH YA
We wanted to see how the plugs were doing after a few hard WOT runs so we made those hard WOT runs on the Dyno and pulled the plugs.
To make my day even better, two plugs cracked Porc
@$%@$%@$(%@($%@($%@($%@*$(&%@*$&^%@$*(&^%@$*^%
However, the good news is the plugs are burning great, no more 1/2 the plug reads one way, and 1/2 the plug reads another. No more signs of detonation, no more burnt plugs, and most important, EACH AND EVERY CYLINDER IS BURNING AND LOOKING THE SAME, -->"FINALLY"<--, WOO HOO.
The new Injectors have def fixed those 4 problems.
The better good news is the two cylinders that had slight hair line cracks in the porc were two cylinders that NEVER gave me prob before. And the best news is Cylinder 1 and the other constant plug burners, were ALL PERFECT and looking fine..... This is very good news.
We did turn the Timing up to try and squeeze more out of the Mag, (which it didnt, as usual it actually lost power at a mere 18 degrees compared to 16) So the two hair line cracks may have been due to that.
WISHFUL THINKING ON MY PART....
Either way NO MELTED PLUGS, NO BURNT PLUGS, NO GREEN PLUGS, NO PLUG DIFFERANT THAN THE NEXT, just two hair line cracks (and no missing pieces).
I CANT TAKE ANY MORE OF THIS I TELL YOU *@$*(@$%(@$%(@$$
Last edited by Rob_02Lightning; Sep 4, 2005 at 08:55 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 12,632
Likes: 1
From: Stinkin Joisey
Two words..........
Plasma Booster!
Iam willing to bet one milllllllllion dollars that your cop wires where your plasma booster "attached" are frayed/cut, so that the signal is interrupped. You did report that one wire was bad and Sal had to fix it. So it stands to reason others will/could be bad..........right?
Your still running those fragile Denso's right? Put some plugs that can take a beating in there, until you and Sal figure out WTF is going on.
You might just want to replace the battery and fuel filter just to eliminate those possibilities.
Btw.......
I guess this explains why you never called back.
Btw #2
My dyno was 592/688 before the nitrous pulls
Plasma Booster!
Iam willing to bet one milllllllllion dollars that your cop wires where your plasma booster "attached" are frayed/cut, so that the signal is interrupped. You did report that one wire was bad and Sal had to fix it. So it stands to reason others will/could be bad..........right?
Your still running those fragile Denso's right? Put some plugs that can take a beating in there, until you and Sal figure out WTF is going on.
You might just want to replace the battery and fuel filter just to eliminate those possibilities.
Btw.......
I guess this explains why you never called back.
Btw #2
My dyno was 592/688 before the nitrous pulls
Last edited by Fast Gator; Sep 4, 2005 at 08:57 AM.
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From: On the side of the Road attempting to explain 135 miles per hour
not trying to be an a$$ or in any way doubting Sal's knowledge
Rob,
Did you check for trouble codes?
Time to AutoTap the truck on the fly and monitor each injector, misfire parameters, trouble codes, etc.
Bob
Did you check for trouble codes?
Time to AutoTap the truck on the fly and monitor each injector, misfire parameters, trouble codes, etc.
Bob
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Posts: 11,153
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From: Selden NY
Gator I was sooooooooooooooooo depressed I didnt even go on the computer
all day and night, sorry
CONGRATS ON THOSE AMAZING NUMBERS BTW
Cant wait to see the N20 numbers, WOO HOO
I GOT NOTHING FOR YOU PAL ; o (
We did the usual numbers as before, 444/583 SAE, that is simply ALL the mag is going to put out on my truck, we tried higher timing and lost power and cracked porc, we tried lower timing, diff AF's, everything. But the good news is a little tweak we tried managed to pick up A LOT of low end and mid range power usually not found on the Mag. AMOF when we compared dyno's to the former Mag #'s at 3500 RPM, we were able to pick up from 553.4 tq, to 579.1, we also picked the HP up from 368.02 to 385.11 at the same 3500 RPM. We carried that extra power all the way to @4700 RPM where the HP peaked out at 443.7, and then the old Mag numbers took over by about 10/10, but since I shift at 5K, this is now perfect and added A LOT of low/mid power. I basically have over 580 Ft Lbs of tq off idle and thats just tire ripping
power for a street tune.
I have a huge party at me house in 2 hours so I got to fly, and cant look at it today. But I will look those wires over carefully and pray I find something....
I agree and will also get a filter and maybe even a battery too
FRIGGING MONEY PIT @($#%@#($%@($%@($^%@)($
Bob
Sal drove around with the gadget hooked up and it threw no codes ????
all day and night, sorry
CONGRATS ON THOSE AMAZING NUMBERS BTW
Cant wait to see the N20 numbers, WOO HOO
I GOT NOTHING FOR YOU PAL ; o (
We did the usual numbers as before, 444/583 SAE, that is simply ALL the mag is going to put out on my truck, we tried higher timing and lost power and cracked porc, we tried lower timing, diff AF's, everything. But the good news is a little tweak we tried managed to pick up A LOT of low end and mid range power usually not found on the Mag. AMOF when we compared dyno's to the former Mag #'s at 3500 RPM, we were able to pick up from 553.4 tq, to 579.1, we also picked the HP up from 368.02 to 385.11 at the same 3500 RPM. We carried that extra power all the way to @4700 RPM where the HP peaked out at 443.7, and then the old Mag numbers took over by about 10/10, but since I shift at 5K, this is now perfect and added A LOT of low/mid power. I basically have over 580 Ft Lbs of tq off idle and thats just tire ripping
power for a street tune.
I have a huge party at me house in 2 hours so I got to fly, and cant look at it today. But I will look those wires over carefully and pray I find something....
I agree and will also get a filter and maybe even a battery too
FRIGGING MONEY PIT @($#%@#($%@($%@($^%@)($
Bob
Sal drove around with the gadget hooked up and it threw no codes ????
Last edited by Rob_02Lightning; Sep 4, 2005 at 09:18 AM.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,519
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From: Greater Boston
Rob
Dude, I have to commend you. If this was my truck there would be nothing left to it but a pile of ash!!!!!
WTF is going on!!!
It's gone from Woo Hoo's to Boo Hoo's every damn day!!!
I feel for ya bro because my patients would have run out.
Maybe it's a bad computer????
WTF is going on!!!
It's gone from Woo Hoo's to Boo Hoo's every damn day!!!
I feel for ya bro because my patients would have run out.
Maybe it's a bad computer????
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,867
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From: NH
One of the most important things to check when there are odd problems is the battery.
Make sure it has a good charge. Then make sure the alternator is charging it correctly when running. It should be in the neighborhood of 14 – 15 volts.
The computers now days are very sensitive to the electrical power they receive and if the battery and/or alternator are crapping out or not functioning correctly they can cause all kinds of “weird” and “unexplainable” problems to exist that are hard to almost impossible to diagnose.
Make sure it has a good charge. Then make sure the alternator is charging it correctly when running. It should be in the neighborhood of 14 – 15 volts.
The computers now days are very sensitive to the electrical power they receive and if the battery and/or alternator are crapping out or not functioning correctly they can cause all kinds of “weird” and “unexplainable” problems to exist that are hard to almost impossible to diagnose.
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From: Stinkin Joisey
Rob
While out in the garage, I started thinking after looking at a wiring harness hanging on the garage wall (No its not a Lightning harness, something from the LTD days)
Your electrial problems didn't manifest themselves until after the engine rebuild. Upon reinstalling the motor Iam wondering if a ground wire was missed. Or maybe not tighten enough, or maybe "pulled" out of the end-piece. Don't know, just reaching for ideas
Don't worry Pal, you always have that BIG NEW YAWKER mouth of yours. Thats a deadly weapon 
I would call you on the phone, but everytime its my dime, you want to talk for a couple hours
While out in the garage, I started thinking after looking at a wiring harness hanging on the garage wall (No its not a Lightning harness, something from the LTD days)
Your electrial problems didn't manifest themselves until after the engine rebuild. Upon reinstalling the motor Iam wondering if a ground wire was missed. Or maybe not tighten enough, or maybe "pulled" out of the end-piece. Don't know, just reaching for ideas
Originally Posted by Rob_02Lightning
Gator I was sooooooooooooooooo depressed I didnt even go on the computer
all day and night, sorry
CONGRATS ON THOSE AMAZING NUMBERS BTW
Cant wait to see the N20 numbers, WOO HOO
I GOT NOTHING FOR YOU PAL ; o (
all day and night, sorry
CONGRATS ON THOSE AMAZING NUMBERS BTW
Cant wait to see the N20 numbers, WOO HOO
I GOT NOTHING FOR YOU PAL ; o (
I would call you on the phone, but everytime its my dime, you want to talk for a couple hours
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From: Portland, Oregon. USA
Are you really running a Plasma Booster? That's the first place to start. After that check your voltage at the fuel pump. I am assuming that you are running dual 255's with you new injectors. If the voltage to the pumps is low they don't pump fpr crap. Also you said that the more you drive the worse it gets? Is it vapor locking? Pinched vent line? Drive it then crack open the fuel cap. If you get a whoosh sound when you open it you may have found the problem.
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From: DETROIT, (formerly Eaton County, Michigan)
I'm just tossing this out there.
Could it be tranny related? When the tranny gets hot it is acting up?
OR
It seems when you start out it's working fine, but gets worse as it heats up?
I had a bad coil, replaced it and it was like night and day. I haven't a clue how you check them. I just swapped them out one by one until I found it.
Could it be tranny related? When the tranny gets hot it is acting up?
OR
It seems when you start out it's working fine, but gets worse as it heats up?
I had a bad coil, replaced it and it was like night and day. I haven't a clue how you check them. I just swapped them out one by one until I found it.
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From: Selden NY
Great feedback so far, THANKS
Please keep it coming
Plasma Booster got thrown in the garbage some time ago
There is one on each coil
Even know it's gone, these connectors stay on
It's the type you just lay over the wire and then plyers a spade right through the frigging wires, in this case chopping them in half as time goes on
@#)^$%(@#$%@$%@()$%@)$%@$)@$
Since it only started last week when I switched SC and the injectors,
AND STARTED IMMEDIATELY I got to believe it's something to do with that.
Wiring, Vac, Connectors, etc....
But it sure does feel as though it's starving for gas (or flooding) when it happens, I will have to really go over it and see (&@$%(@$%(@$&@$#
Please keep it coming
Plasma Booster got thrown in the garbage some time ago
There is one on each coil
Even know it's gone, these connectors stay on
It's the type you just lay over the wire and then plyers a spade right through the frigging wires, in this case chopping them in half as time goes on
@#)^$%(@#$%@$%@()$%@)$%@$)@$
Since it only started last week when I switched SC and the injectors,
AND STARTED IMMEDIATELY I got to believe it's something to do with that.
Wiring, Vac, Connectors, etc....
But it sure does feel as though it's starving for gas (or flooding) when it happens, I will have to really go over it and see (&@$%(@$%(@$&@$#
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 754
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From: Northern VA, USA
Rob,
Hey man, enjoy your party and have a fat blunt
Think about the truck afterwards on a fresh mind.
Definitely get a new injector harness to clear up any potential problem with those plasmabooster harness clips. Maybe jim can hook you up with a harness with all those parts he has laying around.
As aggrivating as it makes you feel, I wouldn't throw in the towel yet. You've come to far to pull the rip cord.
Worse case, you save on the price of 93 for a while. I know here in the lovely DC area, its gone up 50+ cents in the last week for all grades!!!
Good luck, and I will catch you and that other bald guy in October at Englishtown. LMAO....
Hey man, enjoy your party and have a fat blunt
Think about the truck afterwards on a fresh mind.
Definitely get a new injector harness to clear up any potential problem with those plasmabooster harness clips. Maybe jim can hook you up with a harness with all those parts he has laying around.
As aggrivating as it makes you feel, I wouldn't throw in the towel yet. You've come to far to pull the rip cord.
Worse case, you save on the price of 93 for a while. I know here in the lovely DC area, its gone up 50+ cents in the last week for all grades!!!
Good luck, and I will catch you and that other bald guy in October at Englishtown. LMAO....
