Iam kinda confused, I thought Rob was trading his truck for a Hyundai

 

Man this is getting confusing, I don't know if Iam trading, going crazy or just plain stoned

 

My money is on stoned. Any takers?

 

Thats a sure bet
damn, been gone all afternoon, and look at the crap Iam getting blamed for

 

WHERE MIGHT I FIND THAT SNAP IN PLUG CERUCKER ???
(I'd like to check that, THANKS)
I'm out there right now taking each one of those POS connectors off and taping the wire, then taping both wires together back into the harness like it use to be. My god have they left my wires dangling by a strand in some cases Only finished the pass side so far, but I'm having nightmares about the back one, very little left and absolutely impossible to get in there to solder and repair &(@$^%@$%(@$%@$
Took me quite some time to remove the POS connector, and then double tape it up.

Now every time I change plugs ("like daily") I have to worry about this schitt now. I really should get a Lawyer and sue the living schitt out of Ignition Solutions. Plus that harness DOES NOT look like a easy swap out @%$(@&$#(@$#@($#@$&#@($&^@$&^%@($&^%(@$&%^@($^%@$( &@$@$%@($
I've been waiting my whole life to sue someone, this just might be the time...

 

Hey Rob, sorry to hear the problems continue. Please do yourself a huge favor and change only one componant at a time to be able to isolate the problem correctly in the least amount of time. Multiple changes blur the results and causes delays in the process.
I hope Charles is correct as that will be a simple change. Maybe even borrow a buddies to test. It sounds like a backfire type issue to show boost at little to no throttle input. I hope you are getting a good seal on the intake valves, but with all the burnt plugs I would be concerned with the possibility of burnt valves. Maybe even a problem with the cam adjuster setup although I hope not.
I almost fell for the ploy of ROB_02Lighting, good job to the joker.
Jim

 

On the left hand side of the firewall, where the main engine wiring harness plugs in (can't miss it, 2" wire bundle), there is a smaller connector just above the main connector. Just pull on it and see if it comes loose. I was tracing the wiring diagram and the darn thing fell off in my hands. My truck ran bad for a week before I found that!

That particular connector is for all of the coil packs!

 

Rob,

Manifold pressure with light throttle is most likely caused by fuel burning in the intake manifold. As mentioned previously it could be caused by a confused ignition firing the spark plug while the intake valve is open or by a leaking intake valve as Jim brought up. It also could be caused by a very lean mixture as a lean mixture burns slow and if it is lean enough the combustion can still be burning when the intake valve starts to open igniting the fuel in the intake runner. Electronic failures can often be heat sensitive and from the sounds of it your symptoms are heat related so I would think the most probable cause is some electrical part such as a sensor; for instance the crank position sensor or a sensor signaling the computer there is less load or air going through the engine then there really is. These sensors are the MAS or TPS. Are you sure the connectors going to these sensors are plugged securely? Just a thought since you R&R’ed the fuel injectors and blower you have unplug these connectors and may not have plugged them back together securely.

Charles

 

jsut a thought but could his fuel solenoid be leaking ont he nitrous kit

 

I was thinking the same thing. That could be easily diconnected to see if its the problem.

I would definately repair the coil pack plug wires. The thinner the wire gets the more you increase resistance.

 

Great thought guys, I'll check it tommorrow

WOW
Charles, WHAT U SAY ? ? ?
Very impressive btw, but hey lets not be talking valves aint sealing, or sensors aint sensing, I aint that kind of guy. I will only go so far you know, hehehehe.

I'm going 100% on the theory it's related to something I touched. And after just spending a very long time out there taking each and every one of those POS connectors off, (which was not an easy task I may add). TG all the wires were still in one piece, but there is some frawed strands on some of them, unfortunately it's outright impossible to do anything about it there in their place. So I taped each single wire the connector use to be attached to, and then taped the two together and back into the factory wire cover.
AGAIN THIS IS NOT AN EASY TASK (&$^%(@#$%)@$%@)$$
Imagine taping first the one wire, and then taping them both together, while each coil wire is down there in it's place


SO anyway to make a long story longer, superman somehow did it. They all came out great, all were taped up and looking perfect, I double and tripled checked everything, then took each and EVERY entire electrical plug, vac line, hose, and wire and pulled it out and put it back in, everything is correct, EVERYTHING was checked.

Feeling like I acomplished something, I started it up, and what do you know, it's running like absolute ****. Felt and saw it before, looks and feels like a coil isnt firing, I remember it well from the 1st wire that got severed from the connectors. I slamed the hood, came inside and I AM NOT in a good mood.
And this problem when finally figured out and fixed, will just bring me back to the original problem of bogging down (unless this is related ? MAYBE).

When is it just too much, dont know how much more I can take of this,
I'm out there under the hood 24/7 now a days. I want to beat the ever living schitt out of my L like I did the last 3 years

 

DUDE

First thing you got to relax, sit down and blow a joint!
Oh, you already did that, Well have another

Now lets think this thru..........

If you have a bad sensor, that should, I think throw a code. Sal said he saw no codes and Iam sure you would have seen your Check Engine light glowing. (Thats another reason I love my SCT Tuner)

Double check that group of ground wires on the firewall.......
Unhook the fuel line going into your nitrous nozzel to elimanate unmetered fuel in the manifold.
Didn't I see Chim, say his truck was down? If so, borrow ALL HIS COILPACKS and try them ONE AT A TIME, until all 8 of his GOOD coilpacks are on your truck.
This is a stab in the dark, but check the TPS voltage
and lastly
Look the motor over with a CLEAR HEAD in the morning, sometimes the simpliest thing is the hardest to figure out

Let me think some more on this, but I got problems of my own..................

 

BTW..........
Do you have an electrical meter at the house that measures resistance?

And try not to get so down...........
Remember the good times?
Here this will help...............



Like a @#$%^&*(@#$%^&*)@#$%^&*(*&^%$#@ nut, I tell ya

 

Do you have an L you can borrow parts off while you diagnose/find the problem?
I have done this in the past to save a TON of $$$$$ and many return trips to the parts store.
Things to do ASAP for you.
1) TPS
2) Crank position sensor
2) FUEL PRESSURE check

If you were closer I'd bring my L over and swap out parts untill we figured it out! Do you still have you're old 50# tune? Why not reinstall the Eaton and 50# injectors with a tune and see what happens?
In you're journey of blower swapping you may just find out what went wrong.

 

Dude, why are you doing a burnout backwards?