A leaking fuel solenoid is easily distinguishable.

1) The motor will barely run as you are taking in unmetered air past the MAF.
2) It doesn't take that much extra fuel to completely foul a motor, so a leaking solenoid will bring it to a halt.

The fact that Rob's motor is showing spiratic signs and even starts off doesn't show signs of a leaking fuel solenoid. Think of a flooded motor and what a pain they are to start if at all. This is what a leaky solenoid would be like. The plugs would be covered in soot and not showing any lean issues either.

 

Rob a few years ago I had a 2000 Ford E150 work van 6cly. It had the same problems that you are having and was in the shop for awhile, But I do beleive they found that the cats were cloged. I know you chaged your exhaust system but not sure if you touched the cats at all. Maybe you might just want to unbolt it and take it down and take a look in there.

I mean this truck got so bad that no matter how much gas I gave the truck would just not move at all or it would just buck like a bronco. Rob what ever you do Don't give up on it. Just think of it as a minor set back.


Maybe that is why it is showing a load, beacuse it is tiring to push the exhasut through somthing that is cloged. Hope this helps you out.

 

I'm not
That Josh's SCHITTY *** camera skills, I had to keep trying over and over.
I did like three in a row in the same spot, those are the older marks you see.
AND HE STILL COULD'NT MANAGE TO GET THE WHOLE TRUCK IN THE PIC
(@&$%(@$%@($%@($%@^$)@%$)@%$)@$


Ok Mon Morn update
Truck is running like crap, and the 2nd coil on the pass side is not firing
I can pull the connector off and it has NO diff

Now I have to figure out if its the wiring or coil, thats easy enough, just switch coils, more later.....

EDIT
Ok it's a wire
MAKE IT 3 WIRES NOW THOSE POS PB CONNECTORS HAVE SEVERED ($%($%$


This ought to be fun to TRY and fix (@$@$%@$(%@$(%@$(@$(@$
AND
It's only a new problem, NOT THE PROBLEM
When we Dyno'd it, we clearly had 8 cylinders and while I was just out there pulling coil wires off as it was running, it all of a sudden went into problem 2 and started bogging down and not taking the gas.

I'll go pick up a soldering gun, mines broken (and look for an infant or midget to get their hands in there) (@$@($%@$(@$

and then do the gas filter

and then call a flat bed (&@$%(@$%)@$%)@$%)@$%@)($@$

CAUSE I HAVE NO FRIGGING LIFE OUTSIDE THESE PROBLEMS ANYMORE
My GF's pissed, my Family, Son, AND ME (@&$#@$@($@$

SOMEONES FIXING THIS FKING THING ONCE AND FOR ALL

 

rob, I wish I was in your neck of the woods, I would gladly help you if I was, I used to solder as a collateral duty in the navy, still am in the navy just don't solder as much as I used to. I am used to accessing smaller areas of an aircraft to repair wire bundles. anybody prior naval aviation and worked on navy aircraft know that they do not make an aircraft easy to work on. these wires would be a breeze for me. also, you might want to look into environmental splices/ crimping instead of soldering.

 

Rob,
You has a girlfriend. Oh lord!

 

DING! DING! DING! It's time for the Lightning Round of Rob02 Trivia!

Question number 1:
By "girlfriend", Rob02 is referring to:

a) Gator
b) Sal
c) his Truck
d) his Bong
e) His Hand

You have 30 seconds..... [jeopardy theme]


Rob, wich I could help man, but I still can't figure out that if your truck is running like a &@r!, how can you NOT have any engine codes?

 

1 word, err picture:








If those wires are snapped like that and you do not have good soldering skills, I'd highly recommend that you skip trying to solder and just crimp then with butt connectors. Much much easier to do in a confined space the learning how to solder. Make sure you have a good crimper though.


Use these






Or these, but you will need either the liquid tape or normal tape to go over them.

 

actually I would recommend heat shrink to go over them and not electrical tape, as electrical tape will not keep the weather out and will get loose over time.

 

Best thing that you could do:

Pull the harness - 1 hour
Re-solder all of the wires that had those stupid wire taps - 1 hour
Re-install the harness - 1.5 hours

I have done this - yes it sucks, but any problems relating to the harness would be quickly resolved. Use heat shrink and liquid electrical tape that way moisture does not mess up your work.

I have tried once before to service the harness while on the engine. The quality of connections were poor, I could not see them to check them properly after repair. The average person does not have the training or experience for that kind of repair.

Never use wire taps again!

 

The correct answer would be a tie between d & e

 

Having fun are we

I'd like to say we found the other problem too, CAUSE SAL JUST DID
(or part of it) WOO HOO
THANKS SAL
Sorry Rich to steal some of your time

Ok so I fix the wire, truck is running great all of a sudden, I go out and use the street as a launch strip and leave 10K miles in F-1's out there, drive it around a while and sure anough the bogging problem ALL OF A SUDDEN comes back &(@%$(@%$(@$%($@
But this time a Check Engine light comes on
I fly to Sals (cause i know he's there working on Rich's truck, hehehehe)
and get the code read. Truck wont take pedal so Sal does a test on the complete system and it comes up as a EGR Code ? He looks a little further and finds that the egr switch (the one the two vac lines go into together) is stuck in the open position. What this was doing was sending vac to the diaphram thingy over by the egr valve, it's not suppose to do that at low rpm like that.
he even grabed a little vac pump and showed me what happens if you do give it vac, EXACTLY WHAT WAS HAPPENING.

So he disconnects the EGR in the tune, and we plug up those lines and the truck is running like a frigging raped ape, WOO HOO right ?
WRONG
Even know I sat there in his little test strip of a parking lot and left more k's of rubber, tried to get it to do it again, and it wouldnt.
I did some last burnouts said good bye and burnt off into the sun rise

GET A FEW BLOCKS FROM HOME AND WAM IT'S DOING IT AGAIN ???
$@%)@$%@%@$(%@$@@$%@%@^%@%@$@
But it's impossible to do it again, cause the EGR is now shut off, and the lines pluged. And we already proved the switch WAS and IS bad ??? WTF ????

Not as bad, and once you get past it, watch out, but still fk up all the same ?????

THIS IS WEIRD I TELL YOU.......
But man other than that it's running amazing and at least I got to do some massive smokeys in it before it started up AGAIN

THANKS SAL, World of diff, and def one problem out of the way
But your not rid of me yet hehehehehe
I'm going to go change the filter now, and look it over and hope I see something else wrong ???

BTW
We decided we have no choice now, when we get time we'll pull the Supercharger and re-solder each wire where the POS connectors were...

 

Sorry Rob, I guess I’ve spent too many years writing to the wrong people. I will re-phrase it.

Hey Rob, check the MAS and TPS sensors; I think one of them might be bad, also don’t forget to check the crank position sensor.

Charles

 

Id have to say the TPS also Charles, doesnt that measure load which Rob was saying is way off? Ive also got a stock MAS he can try out. Poor bastard must be pulling all his hair out trying to figure it out.

 

Another vote for a possible candidate for the “stumbling issue” which may be the cat’s. My step-son had bought a used Chevy Blazer and it ran fine to begin with. Then it would sometimes hesitate and just fall on its face.

If you shut it down and let it cool off it would run fine again for a while. Anyway towards the end I ended up having to go get it and drive it home. It started out stumbling off and on and the more I drove it the worse it got.

It got to a point I was only doing about 8mph with the peddle to the floor. I finally had to pull the POS over, get a ride back, and tow it home with a dolly.

From reading your post you seem to be saying when you first take it out for a drive it runs fine and then it begins to stumble. That’s about what this Chevy did as well and it took some time until it got real bad.

If the cats are clogged they would cause that and I would think maybe that might even cause this back fire that has been mentioned for the boost problem?

Something to think about at least…

 

If it was the cats, it would do it all the time. Thats the problem, it runs fine and then wham @#$%^&^%$#$#@*&(^%$#$^&&^%$#&^$#

I need to get a WOOOOOOOO-HOOOOOOOOOO out
But my ^&*^%$#@&^%$*&^%$ truck is keeping it bottled up in me!

Time to medicate myself again