does this mean im going to need a trans here in the near future?









just random ones i took on the highway with the cruise set and the tc locked. what are the two peramaters that are supposed to be equal? when the tc was locked the rpm and the tss were always very close to one another, within 2 or 3 digits, and the oss was always higher. is that right? the oss should be 1.7 times (.70 is the 4th gear ratio) the tss if its in fourth correct? thats off if thats the deal.

do your numbers match exactly when the tq is locked? i found some post about an allison diesel trans and they say it should be within 5rpm, anything over 15 is considered slipping.

it drives great however. the shifting will take some getting used to.

another thing i noticed, when on the highway with the cruise set and you go down a hill, it has to slow down, i always thought it just coasted, but it was unlocking the torque converter for a second or two then locking it back up, and then unlocking trying to get down to its speed.

anything else i need to check out?

 

That feature shoud not have been in the hardware in my opinion. Too much not understood by us novices. If your truck in shifting fine, just drive it and enjoy it. Also, you can soften the shifts if they are too strong for your liking, but I like mine very firm. Here is another related thread.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ch...-edge-evo.html

 

They will only be equal in 3rd gear with the TC locked. Next time you are driving, when it says it is in 3rd gear hit the O/D off button. Then gain speed until the torque converter locks. There was a thread just yesterday about it.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ch...-edge-evo.html

They wont be exact just because when the programmer reads the numbers they are constantly changing. The 5 or so sounds like a good standard but I haven't looked at those two PIDs recently enough to remember what the spread was.

Normally it does just coast but the tow tunes have a stronger tendency to engine brake to help keep the truck moving at the same speed when going down a hill or to slow down while at speed. I like it on one of my tunes because I can slow down from 90+ easier when I'm on the highway.

Just keep playing around with the PIDs until you find some that you deem appropriate to follow at all times. I usually keep RPM (because my truck doesn't have a tach), engine temp, tranny temp and battery level. Watching those can help keep you from getting stranded from silly stuff the truck doesn't warn you of until it is too late.

 

by battery level you mean the voltage?

i know all that stuffs super complicating, i just remember seeing that the two should be equal but i realize that the oss and tss and rpm are all separate sensors and that if they read at a tenth of a millisecond different from each other the numbers will be off. plus they probably arent designed to be very accurate i wouldnt imagine.

what pids are you guys monitoring? is it normal that my 5.4 truck doesent have a sensor for the oil temp? it always reads 0 so thats what im assuming?

 

I think they dropped the oil sensor. I monitor engine temp, trans temp, voltage and speedometer.

 

Yeah, I have my average MPG, OSS,TSS, and common gear posted. The reason for the oss and tss are to check on my tranny slipping. Which was one of the reasons for getting the gryphon.
When I noticed the spread in numbers like you have I called PHP and asked wtf is my tranny in that bad of shape?
Bill told me the same thing that Lonshot said. The tss and oss should match in 3rd tc locked although they might be off a little due to the pickup from the programmer. Have you played around with the shift points yet? I am wanting to change mine to drag out a little longer in gears.

 

Ford dropped the Oil Temperature sender around the time of your model year.

I think you'll find in 3rd gear with the TC locked that the OSS will exactly equal the TSS, but they seem pointless to monitor.

I monitor Battery Voltage (Alternator Output actually), Trans Temp, Cylinder Head Temp, and, because I have a CTS, I also monitor Inst MPG and Gears.

- Jack

 

Yeah, I can watch my charging voltage go from 14.2 to 13.8 just by switching on my lights. With low RPMs the alternator doesn't charge as much and sometimes I sit by the river with the radio on. Being able to quickly check that is a very good thing.

Yeah the 0 is because they stopped putting a sensor there. I dont remember exactly when but it may have been around '06 or '07. There is still at the CHT and ECT.

 

so when sitting with the radio on (key in acc) i can put the key on every now and then and see what the voltage of the battery is right? i work at advance auto and test peoples batteries all day, what do you think i need to turn the truck on at and let it charge like 11 volts?

and converted i have not messed with the shift points yet. im going to do some driving with it like this. i did notice that its holding 1st longer however. that is good. the rule is to not mess with the firmness of the shifts too much or else it will shift too hard right?

what else can you mess with other than shift points and stuff

i might watch common gear too. i noticed one time i was pulling my waverunner out of the water and up the ramp, i put it in 1st ( ive heard that another set of clutches engages, so why not) then when i got going up the ramp at a little more speed, i shifted the shifter to 2nd, and it didnt do anything, then i put it in drive and it shifted and did the rpms it usually would do in that spot when in drive. was my truck trying to be in 3rd then?

i remember reading about why 4 low wasnt as low as older trucks when compared to ours, then they always find out that putting the shifter in 1st will give it that granny gear, and i tried that once and its true. 4low, and drive is a much higher ratio than 4low and 1st gear.

 

Yeah, you just have to realize that every time you do that you are also switching on the fuel pump and many other things. I wish it were possible to have it turn on with the radio rather than everything else.

Maybe, that is pushing it. I dont usually go below 11.7-11.5 because I'm usually out where only 4x4s can get me, and even they have trouble. I have a remote start I installed and my philosophy is to crank it every 5 songs if it is just the radio, every 4 if I have the aux speakers going and every 3 songs if I also have the subs. Then I run it for one full song. I haven't had any trouble yet.

I'm thinking about getting a second battery soon with a manual battery switch (they are only around $25) and routing all of my audio to that rather than risking my cranking battery.

 

Dont mess with anything unless you know what it is and all of the direct AND indirect effects it will have.

Putting it in 1 just locks it to the first gear only. How I understand it, it also cuts your throttle map down by about half. It is not magically creating a granny gear, it just gives you a more precise throttle map. Because of that you now have more throttle room to play with and can more steadily build power for pulling making it feel like a granny gear. I take advantage of that very often.

 

i sell this one construction worker a marine battery every couple of years. he runs a deep cycle marine battery in his truck all day 8 hours, door open radio on, and people always tell him it wont start and it fires right up. i would for sure put a deep cycle marine battery somewhere, a capacitor, and then find a way to have the alt charge it once the truck is running but limit it to a certain voltage, so it wont burn up the alternator. then you could just switch the speakers and head unit and aux speakers to getting their power from that battery instead of the trucks battery. you could even get fancy dancy and wire up rock lights, bed lights, and all other kinds of lights to the same marine battery. and a power inverter.

 

you really do learn something every day. i didnt know that. having that common gear thing will be quite nice. i wish on the monochrome gryphons the tune level indicator in the top right could do the common gear. but oh well ill just get rid of my speed pid.

 

The place I work at sells marine supplies. Many boats are designed to have a cranking battery and a living battery. The two are normally isolated unless the switch is set to on for charging. I'm going to do the same setup but in a truck. Basically what you just said is what I have planned the wiring is simple, just rerouting the wires will be a PITA. I just need to feel like buying an expensive battery and around 20 feet of good wire. Probably going to come after the window tint though.

Yeah, having that little number up top or another one on the other side would be nice for a gear since it is a single digit and a symbol.

 

i woukd think you can double that song count too. my friends crown vic with a red top battery and pioneer system played music loud with the car off for 4.5 hours and started right up.