2010 A/C Performance
#31
As others have suggested - it's possibly a function of sizing - the trucks' interiors get ever-larger with more & more glass area, while the system's capacity stays the same....
I wonder if y'all could benefit from that vac-operated heater core valve ....
MGD
#32
The problem is it's too hot in Houston.
I started an unscientific test today. I took a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer and put it in the cab of my tuxedo black 2010 Platinum in the company parking lot with the windows (and moon roof) closed. I placed a foil covered sun shield behind the windshield to keep the sun from blasting in.
At 2:25 p.m., the outside temperature was 96 deg. F. My digital thermometer read 136 deg. F. and was still going up. I'm sure it would have topped 140 degrees if I had left it. Tuxedo black in the Houston heat with closed windows will do that.
I opened the moon roof all the way and opened each of the 4 windows about 1/2". It will be interesting to see if that helps the weak A/C problem at start up. It's nice that my company provides employees with a secure gated parking lot so I can minimize the risk of partially open windows and full open moon roof. I would never try that at a shopping mall parking lot.
It is asking a lot of the A/C when the (parked) heat load on the cab is around 140 deg. and you want it to be a nice comfortable 75 deg. inside the cab as soon as you start the engine.
Perhaps the answer is to get a white truck and move north.
Update: 3:55 p.m.
Cab temperature 126 degrees.
Outside temperature on display 107 degrees.
Outside temperature on internet weather 96 degrees.
End of unscientific test.
Conclusion: opening moon roof helps a little, but it is such a royal PITA that it will stay closed. Solar powered window fans would be good, but they don't work with tinted windows. All my windows are tinted.
At 2:25 p.m., the outside temperature was 96 deg. F. My digital thermometer read 136 deg. F. and was still going up. I'm sure it would have topped 140 degrees if I had left it. Tuxedo black in the Houston heat with closed windows will do that.
I opened the moon roof all the way and opened each of the 4 windows about 1/2". It will be interesting to see if that helps the weak A/C problem at start up. It's nice that my company provides employees with a secure gated parking lot so I can minimize the risk of partially open windows and full open moon roof. I would never try that at a shopping mall parking lot.
It is asking a lot of the A/C when the (parked) heat load on the cab is around 140 deg. and you want it to be a nice comfortable 75 deg. inside the cab as soon as you start the engine.
Perhaps the answer is to get a white truck and move north.
Update: 3:55 p.m.
Cab temperature 126 degrees.
Outside temperature on display 107 degrees.
Outside temperature on internet weather 96 degrees.
End of unscientific test.
Conclusion: opening moon roof helps a little, but it is such a royal PITA that it will stay closed. Solar powered window fans would be good, but they don't work with tinted windows. All my windows are tinted.
Last edited by SailorDon; 08-11-2010 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Update:
#33
#35
Speed writing.
I said it wrong.
What I meant to say is the whole procedure is a PITA.
1. opening the moon roof (the easy part)
2. opening the door windows 1/2" (not too difficult)
3. keeping a constant weather watch (PITA)
- this is very important since the cab interior will get water damage if it rains.
4. if it looks like it's going to rain, run out to the parking lot to close windows. (PITA)
5. etc.
Steps 3 and 4 are the big PITA. It looks like it might rain in Houston today, so the roof and windows are closed. If it doesn't rain today, the cab will be 140 degrees at 5 p.m. when it is time to drive home.
The only benefit is a cab temperature of 126 degrees instead of 136. IMHO it's not worth the effort. I'll just wait the extra couple of minutes for the A/C to do it's thing.
What I meant to say is the whole procedure is a PITA.
1. opening the moon roof (the easy part)
2. opening the door windows 1/2" (not too difficult)
3. keeping a constant weather watch (PITA)
- this is very important since the cab interior will get water damage if it rains.
4. if it looks like it's going to rain, run out to the parking lot to close windows. (PITA)
5. etc.
Steps 3 and 4 are the big PITA. It looks like it might rain in Houston today, so the roof and windows are closed. If it doesn't rain today, the cab will be 140 degrees at 5 p.m. when it is time to drive home.
The only benefit is a cab temperature of 126 degrees instead of 136. IMHO it's not worth the effort. I'll just wait the extra couple of minutes for the A/C to do it's thing.
#36
That's not at all what I'm asking. I'm expecting the damn thing to be blowing cold air by the time I get to the office/home/wherever else it is that I'm going. It takes me 12 minutes to get to the office. By then it should be blowing roughly 44 degrees out the vents. It does not do that.
#37
That's not at all what I'm asking. I'm expecting the damn thing to be blowing cold air by the time I get to the office/home/wherever else it is that I'm going. It takes me 12 minutes to get to the office. By then it should be blowing roughly 44 degrees out the vents. It does not do that.
MGD
#38
You said in a previous reply that your dealer checked out your A/C and it was OK. What was the temperature at the vent during their test? If it wasn't 50 or below, there's something wrong with your A/C. You say it doesn't blow 44 degrees at the vents after 12 minutes on the road. What is the A/C vent temperature?
#39
I have 3 2010 F150 Screws in the neighborhood. Two (1 Black and 1 Maroon) blow cold air immediately and your turning the fan down in 10 minutes. On mine (red) makes me sweat all the way to town (24 miles of Freeway). By the time it cools off I'm already where I'm going. It plum SUX.
If you really think it's the heater core, take a rag and wrap around the heater hose and use some vise grips to close it off and see. I'm taking mine in as well but I feel they will tell me it's normal.
BTW, when I was doing test drives, I notice the other trucks I drove cooled real good but mine did not do so good. I think they have something going on with these 2010 trucks. I doubt it's the condensor and evap size or they would all cool crappy.
I also have a 2008 Silverado and it will freeze you out. On Low Fan your turning the thermostat up. No Joke. Ford has missed the boat on this and their BS Fuel Mileage claims.
Richard
If you really think it's the heater core, take a rag and wrap around the heater hose and use some vise grips to close it off and see. I'm taking mine in as well but I feel they will tell me it's normal.
BTW, when I was doing test drives, I notice the other trucks I drove cooled real good but mine did not do so good. I think they have something going on with these 2010 trucks. I doubt it's the condensor and evap size or they would all cool crappy.
I also have a 2008 Silverado and it will freeze you out. On Low Fan your turning the thermostat up. No Joke. Ford has missed the boat on this and their BS Fuel Mileage claims.
Richard
#40
As I indicated earlier - you could try this, at least temporarily, to see if this is yer specific root cause: https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...rformance.html
MGD
MGD
#42
#43
#44
#45
Makes sense SailorDon. Hey, at least you may get rain. Another 100+ day here in DFW.
So based upon these posts, it seems that many of us have the A/C issue some don't. I wonder what the difference is? I didn't notice it on my first 2010 (XLT), but it wasn't that hot while i owned it.
So based upon these posts, it seems that many of us have the A/C issue some don't. I wonder what the difference is? I didn't notice it on my first 2010 (XLT), but it wasn't that hot while i owned it.