2004 - 2008 F-150
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How to: 04-08 OEM headlights FX-R Projector HID retrofit.

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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 05:16 AM
  #46  
mSaLL150's Avatar
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The Apollo shroud looks fantastic in the F150 housing. So glad I went with them, well done my friend!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #47  
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Looks great! That shroud does fit a lot better. I might have to do a retrofit on my retrofits now. LOL
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 02:37 PM
  #48  
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Do these have HI and LOW beam or is it just one light output?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 02:54 PM
  #49  
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The retrofit with the FX-R is bi-xenon. It has an actuator which moved the bulb/shroud giving the high beam. So, they are just like the factory setup.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #50  
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OK Just wondering. I've got a set of projectors from a Range Rover I've been contemplating retrofitting to my truck. I'd assume they are bi-xenon as well.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #51  
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Fabian06sc last pic 25 ft from wall looks like projector needs to be rotated few degree , how you gone do that? Im doing retro myself




 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 10:52 PM
  #52  
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I don't think he did the adjustments yet. I think he just threw them in to see what it looks like. If you do need rotation adjustments you can drill the mounting holes on the projector holes bigger. Or you can bend the cut off shield to compensate a few degrees. Or adjust the headlight housings with washers to get even cutoff. If the cutoff is level but one side is higher like the picture you have to pull the cutoff shield middle closer to bulb or push further from bulb I cannot remember right now. Rotation and horizontal adjustments must be made before headlight are sealed up.
R1 Your lights are looking great as well.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #53  
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thats correct, i just threw it on there to check it out, the headlight wasnt even bolted in.
I have my wall taped off and im about to go adjust them now before i seal everything up tonight. For rotational alignment, I did what powers said. My tabs are drilled slightly larger than the 10-32 screw i used and i can loosen them and rotate them just enough.

I figured out if you measure from the flat area on the top of the OEM reflector to the projector it is very exact for levelness.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 11:16 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Fabian06SC
thats correct, i just threw it on there to check it out, the headlight wasnt even bolted in.
I have my wall taped off and im about to go adjust them now before i seal everything up tonight. For rotational alignment, I did what powers said. My tabs are drilled slightly larger than the 10-32 screw i used and i can loosen them and rotate them just enough.

I figured out if you measure from the flat area on the top of the OEM reflector to the projector it is very exact for levelness.
I am thinking of doing a retrofit on mine; I sure hope all this lingo makes more sense after I get into it.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 11:58 PM
  #55  
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Not much to understand really. And im sure all of us guys in this thread would be more than willing to help you out if you have any questions.
Got them sealed and installed. The cut-off aligned perfectly. I just had to rotate the pass side towards the drivers just a bit and the height. I measured from the top flat area like i said before and rotationally they were dead on. beams merge nicely at about 30-35 feet.
I used the 5000K bulbs and they are plenty bright with just a hint of blue like i wanted.

One small note for you guys doing this.
DONT, by all means DONT touch the OEM chrome reflector any more than you need too. I Would recommend using a paper towel or other clean soft cloth when handling them. The first light I finished had the entire edge of the bowl lose its chrome. It is very lightly plated on the edges. Once together i didnt like it and luckily had a spare bowl that i had to cut up. With a paper towel between my palm and the chrome it didnt do a thing. I guess the oils in your skin make the chrome fade away. Ill post pics later.
 

Last edited by Fabian06SC; Jan 10, 2011 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 12:51 AM
  #56  
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So the 5000k has hints of blue? I want zero blue but also want zero yellow (apparently 4300k is hints of yellow?). I want just pure white light. They should make a 4700k haha...Bleh
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 12:57 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by mSaLL150
So the 5000k has hints of blue? I want zero blue but also want zero yellow (apparently 4300k is hints of yellow?). I want just pure white light. They should make a 4700k haha...Bleh
No, once fully warmed the light output is very clear and white. The cut-off has more of a blue hue and when you look at the projector lens itself it looks more blue. Which is what i wanted. The phillips 4300k is slightly brighter but does have a slight yellow hue. Lucky for you i installed 5000k on one side and 4300k on the other and took a pic. I knew someone would want one! lol Lemme upload it.

EDIT: pic uploaded.

5000k on the left, 4300k on the right.
halogen fogs
 

Last edited by Fabian06SC; Jan 10, 2011 at 01:13 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 01:36 AM
  #58  
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Looks great, I don't feel bad about going 5000k now. When I used PNP kits in the past they were 6000k and were too blue for my tastes (any real visual blue looks ricer to me). But I hate yellow, so 5000k should be a good compromise.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #59  
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so I went out to adjust my cutoff , this is the best I could make 5:30 am on Sunday in 6F temp, I'm 95% happy with them. so what you guys think?


 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 01:40 PM
  #60  
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Looks pretty good!
 
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