'04 owners how's your truck holding up?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 443
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From: Massachusetts
When a vehicle is under warranty, Ford has a lot of control, once it's out, Ford is limited, either way, the dealership is NOT FoMoCo.
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,115
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Your right they aren't FoMoCo, but they are licensed by FoMoCo to sell and service their vehicles. That's what the Blue Oval certification is all about, it's supposed to motivate the dealers to give the best service possible. If the sales and service doesn't meet Ford's criteria they can pull the license and shut them down. I've seen it happen twice where I live, Ford did it and Chrysler did it. The dealer I bought my F150 from was shut down because Ford felt that having 2 dealers within 2 miles of each other wasn't necessary. My dealer had the lower sales #'s so they got shut down. Chrysler shut down a dealer here because they were doing alot of backdoor deals for bikers and their relatives, then sticking Chrysler with the bills. Chrysler investigated, pulled the license and shut them down.
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Just read all 17 pages. With my 04 FX4 at 90K I have had most of the same problems as many of you. I am questioning the spark plug thing in another thread but based on what I've read here can you tell me about:
How do you know the third brake light seal leaks?
What are cam phasers and what is the issue?
What is the "butyl pad"?
What are the symptoms of a slip yoke needing to be lubed?
I too have a rattle on startup. What is this?
And.......should I let the Dealer change the plugs?????
How do you know the third brake light seal leaks?
What are cam phasers and what is the issue?
What is the "butyl pad"?
What are the symptoms of a slip yoke needing to be lubed?
I too have a rattle on startup. What is this?
And.......should I let the Dealer change the plugs?????
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: N.E. Iowa
Just read all 17 pages. With my 04 FX4 at 90K I have had most of the same problems as many of you. I am questioning the spark plug thing in another thread but based on what I've read here can you tell me about:
How do you know the third brake light seal leaks?
What are cam phasers and what is the issue?
What is the "butyl pad"?
What are the symptoms of a slip yoke needing to be lubed?
I too have a rattle on startup. What is this?
And.......should I let the Dealer change the plugs?????
How do you know the third brake light seal leaks?
What are cam phasers and what is the issue?
What is the "butyl pad"?
What are the symptoms of a slip yoke needing to be lubed?
I too have a rattle on startup. What is this?
And.......should I let the Dealer change the plugs?????
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,858
Likes: 0
From: Rohnert Park, CA
Just read all 17 pages. With my 04 FX4 at 90K I have had most of the same problems as many of you. I am questioning the spark plug thing in another thread but based on what I've read here can you tell me about:
How do you know the third brake light seal leaks?
What are cam phasers and what is the issue?
What is the "butyl pad"?
What are the symptoms of a slip yoke needing to be lubed?
I too have a rattle on startup. What is this?
And.......should I let the Dealer change the plugs?????
How do you know the third brake light seal leaks?
What are cam phasers and what is the issue?
What is the "butyl pad"?
What are the symptoms of a slip yoke needing to be lubed?
I too have a rattle on startup. What is this?
And.......should I let the Dealer change the plugs?????
2.) Cam phasers help allow for Variable Camshaft timing. Here is what it does in a nut shell:
It utilizes electronically controlled hydraulic valves that direct engine oil into the camshaft phaser cavity. These oil control solenoids are bolted into the cylinder heads towards the front of the engine near the camshaft phasers. The powertrain control module (PCM) transmits a signal to the solenoids to move a valve spool that regulates the flow of oil to the phaser cavity. The phaser cavity changes the valve timing by either advancing or retarding the camshafts to allow for optimum engine performance, reduced emissions, and increased fuel efficiency.
The issue is, they stick. Not allowing them to work as described.
3.) Butyl pads are thin sheets of aluminum sandwiched between layers of vinyl. Each pad would be approx 3/16" thick, and 8"x3" in rectangular dimension. Lay on your back right under your exhaust pipe ending. Look up, and on the inside of the fender metal will be the butyl pads, that is, if you have any. The butyl pads are attached to the inner fender metal with sloshed on black adhesive. This adhesive can collect wtaer during really humid days, and negin to rust.
3.) you know you need the slipyoke lubes with the high heat, teflon grease, when you start hearing a clunk on take off. Loudest when under load (stopped on a hill, about to go up, or jumpin on the gas too quick from a dead stop). Here is a thread I had on it:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...ous-clunk.html
4.) A "rattle on start-up" could be one of probably a million different things. Most common, being a cheap oil filter. Which one ya got ? Some don't have a drain back valve, some have a crappy one. On start up, if that fliter becomes empty after sitting too long, then that "noise" you here is a dry start. But like I said, there could be tons of other things causing a noise on start-up. We would have to hear it, or have a better discription.
5.) up to you. Each dealership is different, so ask them what they do "if" they break a plug off. Make sure they put it in writting if they say they will cover it. Good luck with that one.
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
1.) inside cab is wet. mainly up by the head liner, near the 3rd brake light.
2.) Cam phasers help allow for Variable Camshaft timing. Here is what it does in a nut shell:
It utilizes electronically controlled hydraulic valves that direct engine oil into the camshaft phaser cavity. These oil control solenoids are bolted into the cylinder heads towards the front of the engine near the camshaft phasers. The powertrain control module (PCM) transmits a signal to the solenoids to move a valve spool that regulates the flow of oil to the phaser cavity. The phaser cavity changes the valve timing by either advancing or retarding the camshafts to allow for optimum engine performance, reduced emissions, and increased fuel efficiency.
The issue is, they stick. Not allowing them to work as described.
3.) Butyl pads are thin sheets of aluminum sandwiched between layers of vinyl. Each pad would be approx 3/16" thick, and 8"x3" in rectangular dimension. Lay on your back right under your exhaust pipe ending. Look up, and on the inside of the fender metal will be the butyl pads, that is, if you have any. The butyl pads are attached to the inner fender metal with sloshed on black adhesive. This adhesive can collect wtaer during really humid days, and negin to rust.
3.) you know you need the slipyoke lubes with the high heat, teflon grease, when you start hearing a clunk on take off. Loudest when under load (stopped on a hill, about to go up, or jumpin on the gas too quick from a dead stop). Here is a thread I had on it:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...ous-clunk.html
4.) A "rattle on start-up" could be one of probably a million different things. Most common, being a cheap oil filter. Which one ya got ? Some don't have a drain back valve, some have a crappy one. On start up, if that fliter becomes empty after sitting too long, then that "noise" you here is a dry start. But like I said, there could be tons of other things causing a noise on start-up. We would have to hear it, or have a better discription.
5.) up to you. Each dealership is different, so ask them what they do "if" they break a plug off. Make sure they put it in writting if they say they will cover it. Good luck with that one.
2.) Cam phasers help allow for Variable Camshaft timing. Here is what it does in a nut shell:
It utilizes electronically controlled hydraulic valves that direct engine oil into the camshaft phaser cavity. These oil control solenoids are bolted into the cylinder heads towards the front of the engine near the camshaft phasers. The powertrain control module (PCM) transmits a signal to the solenoids to move a valve spool that regulates the flow of oil to the phaser cavity. The phaser cavity changes the valve timing by either advancing or retarding the camshafts to allow for optimum engine performance, reduced emissions, and increased fuel efficiency.
The issue is, they stick. Not allowing them to work as described.
3.) Butyl pads are thin sheets of aluminum sandwiched between layers of vinyl. Each pad would be approx 3/16" thick, and 8"x3" in rectangular dimension. Lay on your back right under your exhaust pipe ending. Look up, and on the inside of the fender metal will be the butyl pads, that is, if you have any. The butyl pads are attached to the inner fender metal with sloshed on black adhesive. This adhesive can collect wtaer during really humid days, and negin to rust.
3.) you know you need the slipyoke lubes with the high heat, teflon grease, when you start hearing a clunk on take off. Loudest when under load (stopped on a hill, about to go up, or jumpin on the gas too quick from a dead stop). Here is a thread I had on it:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...ous-clunk.html
4.) A "rattle on start-up" could be one of probably a million different things. Most common, being a cheap oil filter. Which one ya got ? Some don't have a drain back valve, some have a crappy one. On start up, if that fliter becomes empty after sitting too long, then that "noise" you here is a dry start. But like I said, there could be tons of other things causing a noise on start-up. We would have to hear it, or have a better discription.
5.) up to you. Each dealership is different, so ask them what they do "if" they break a plug off. Make sure they put it in writting if they say they will cover it. Good luck with that one.
Unfortunately my local dealer is better at fixing door handles and mud flaps than anthing in or on an engine it seems.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 2
From: Pearl Harbor
1.) inside cab is wet. mainly up by the head liner, near the 3rd brake light.
2.) Cam phasers help allow for Variable Camshaft timing. Here is what it does in a nut shell:
It utilizes electronically controlled hydraulic valves that direct engine oil into the camshaft phaser cavity. These oil control solenoids are bolted into the cylinder heads towards the front of the engine near the camshaft phasers. The powertrain control module (PCM) transmits a signal to the solenoids to move a valve spool that regulates the flow of oil to the phaser cavity. The phaser cavity changes the valve timing by either advancing or retarding the camshafts to allow for optimum engine performance, reduced emissions, and increased fuel efficiency.
The issue is, they stick. Not allowing them to work as described.
3.) Butyl pads are thin sheets of aluminum sandwiched between layers of vinyl. Each pad would be approx 3/16" thick, and 8"x3" in rectangular dimension. Lay on your back right under your exhaust pipe ending. Look up, and on the inside of the fender metal will be the butyl pads, that is, if you have any. The butyl pads are attached to the inner fender metal with sloshed on black adhesive. This adhesive can collect wtaer during really humid days, and negin to rust.
3.) you know you need the slipyoke lubes with the high heat, teflon grease, when you start hearing a clunk on take off. Loudest when under load (stopped on a hill, about to go up, or jumpin on the gas too quick from a dead stop). Here is a thread I had on it:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...ous-clunk.html
4.) A "rattle on start-up" could be one of probably a million different things. Most common, being a cheap oil filter. Which one ya got ? Some don't have a drain back valve, some have a crappy one. On start up, if that fliter becomes empty after sitting too long, then that "noise" you here is a dry start. But like I said, there could be tons of other things causing a noise on start-up. We would have to hear it, or have a better discription.
5.) up to you. Each dealership is different, so ask them what they do "if" they break a plug off. Make sure they put it in writting if they say they will cover it. Good luck with that one.
2.) Cam phasers help allow for Variable Camshaft timing. Here is what it does in a nut shell:
It utilizes electronically controlled hydraulic valves that direct engine oil into the camshaft phaser cavity. These oil control solenoids are bolted into the cylinder heads towards the front of the engine near the camshaft phasers. The powertrain control module (PCM) transmits a signal to the solenoids to move a valve spool that regulates the flow of oil to the phaser cavity. The phaser cavity changes the valve timing by either advancing or retarding the camshafts to allow for optimum engine performance, reduced emissions, and increased fuel efficiency.
The issue is, they stick. Not allowing them to work as described.
3.) Butyl pads are thin sheets of aluminum sandwiched between layers of vinyl. Each pad would be approx 3/16" thick, and 8"x3" in rectangular dimension. Lay on your back right under your exhaust pipe ending. Look up, and on the inside of the fender metal will be the butyl pads, that is, if you have any. The butyl pads are attached to the inner fender metal with sloshed on black adhesive. This adhesive can collect wtaer during really humid days, and negin to rust.
3.) you know you need the slipyoke lubes with the high heat, teflon grease, when you start hearing a clunk on take off. Loudest when under load (stopped on a hill, about to go up, or jumpin on the gas too quick from a dead stop). Here is a thread I had on it:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...ous-clunk.html
4.) A "rattle on start-up" could be one of probably a million different things. Most common, being a cheap oil filter. Which one ya got ? Some don't have a drain back valve, some have a crappy one. On start up, if that fliter becomes empty after sitting too long, then that "noise" you here is a dry start. But like I said, there could be tons of other things causing a noise on start-up. We would have to hear it, or have a better discription.
5.) up to you. Each dealership is different, so ask them what they do "if" they break a plug off. Make sure they put it in writting if they say they will cover it. Good luck with that one.
Suspended
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Moronville
The big deal is alot of people like me buy used trucks and little things like this can turn into a nightmare for the guy that does't take or can't afford to take his truck to the dealer. To have a independent shop repair this might get a little costly. Unless they have the extractor or have dealt with this before. By the way does any body know how many miles you can get out of a 5.4L. My 2000 F150 has 227k. I would like to know what max life is on the engine?
tranny shudders someitmes when it kicks down, but over all i still like the truck, just deal with the problems as they come, is my plan for now.GDR
Last edited by homerpete; Oct 30, 2009 at 12:04 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,535
Likes: 28
From: Lockport, La.
Bought my truck new in Feb '04, had rear end replaced at 11k miles, drivers window regulator and rear slider motor replaced once all in warranty. Rear slider not working now. Truck now has 54k miles on it and is running great. I still am able to get 16-18 mpg hwy on my 100 mile a day commute. Overall it's been a great truck. My 4th Ford truck and may get one more before I retire!
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,858
Likes: 0
From: Rohnert Park, CA
How's it going there PawPaw ??
You had the rear end replaced ?? As in all new innards ? or did the swap out the entire housing and all ? What was wrong ? Just curious.
BTW I am at 55k, no problems yet. I destroyed my e-brake, but that was off-roading and had to make a judgement call. Thats it. I also have "the clunk" and am looking into a permenant fix. Might be doing a rear-end swap and a custom driveshaft to fix it and beef up the rear.
You had the rear end replaced ?? As in all new innards ? or did the swap out the entire housing and all ? What was wrong ? Just curious.
BTW I am at 55k, no problems yet. I destroyed my e-brake, but that was off-roading and had to make a judgement call. Thats it. I also have "the clunk" and am looking into a permenant fix. Might be doing a rear-end swap and a custom driveshaft to fix it and beef up the rear.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,535
Likes: 28
From: Lockport, La.
How's it going there PawPaw ??
You had the rear end replaced ?? As in all new innards ? or did the swap out the entire housing and all ? What was wrong ? Just curious.
BTW I am at 55k, no problems yet. I destroyed my e-brake, but that was off-roading and had to make a judgement call. Thats it. I also have "the clunk" and am looking into a permenant fix. Might be doing a rear-end swap and a custom driveshaft to fix it and beef up the rear.
You had the rear end replaced ?? As in all new innards ? or did the swap out the entire housing and all ? What was wrong ? Just curious.
BTW I am at 55k, no problems yet. I destroyed my e-brake, but that was off-roading and had to make a judgement call. Thats it. I also have "the clunk" and am looking into a permenant fix. Might be doing a rear-end swap and a custom driveshaft to fix it and beef up the rear.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,535
Likes: 28
From: Lockport, La.
I had some humming noise that I knew was coming from the rearend. I used to go on some of these truck forum's and found out it was sort of a common problem. I went to the dealership I used to work at year's ago and the service manager when I was there was still working there. He had a TSB on the problem and had my truck repaired and back in 2 days. My truck was not even purchased there, even though my previous 2000 Super Duty was. I have put over 40k miles on it with no problem's since the repair. By the way the 2000 F-250 Super Duty I had was the only vehicle I've ever owned that had zero problem's with and includes Toyota's, Honda's and every other brand's we've had over the year's.
