As you all pretty much know, I burn plugs on a weekly basis,
(it would be daily if I used it more often)

Today the 7th set of plugs went in to replace the multi melt down 6th set
@@%$(@$%@($%@$(%@$*!@^%!@$%!@)($#%!@($



obviously detonating, "green tips" (you dont hear it)
obviously ALOT of heat and or pressure in the Cylinders, the usual white or ash look.

Drivers Side


Pas Side


Motor still only has less than 2k on it, 3 runs (1 was with minimum n20)
BUT THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN SINCE DAY ONE
Even while breaking it in and feathering the pedal, at 500 miles 3 were cooked, by 1000 miles another 2, then 1 on the Dyno right afterward, then maybe a few hundred miles later again, then again, and again and well you get the picture (&@$%(@$%(@$%@($%@($@$
Right now if I went out there and did a normal parkway ramp 3 gear WOT, I would burn them AGAIN &^$(@^$%(@$%@($E%@($%@($

WTF is going on, help
Over 30 dyno runs, AF always a beautiful flat line 11.8, low timing, yet this happens EVERYTIME you go WOT.

Got Pumps
Got 50lb Injectors
Got Maf Extender
GOT @ $500.00 in burnt plugs too *@$*@$%@$*(%@$(*^%@$*(^%@$
NGK's, Denso's, it doesnt matter.....
Happens with or without Race Fuel, in warm weather and cool,
AND #1 IS ALWAYS ONE OF THE BAD ONES, "EVERYTIME" the second bad one seems to move around, can be from either side and no pattern there, but ALWAYS #1, and as you see, man it aint looking good &(@$%(@$%(@$
WTF IS GOING ON, @)#$(%@#$()^%@#$(%@$(%@$(@$)@$
AS you will also see on this set (as in ALL THE OTHERS) no two cylinders seem to EVER look the same.

Words can not express how f ucking pissed off I am
Can I blame it on the (most dont like) 50lb injector's ?
Could there be an issue with the Motor since day one ?
WTF AM I SUPPOSE TO DO NEXT???
I'm out of money, out of patience, and really fed up with this BS!!
I had this done last winter, and I still cant make a @(&$@#$ WOT run
WITHOUT cooking plugs

DOES ANYONE HAVING ANY IDEA'S ???
HAS ANYONE HAD SIMULAR ISSUES ???
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE SHED LIGHT ON THIS.........

CHEAP ONES PLEASE (lol)

[EDIT]
BTW
The truck runs amazing, extremely responsive, pulls strong as schitt, ran 12's off spray and 11's on, BUT this will happen ANYTIME you stay WOT more than a few sec's (@&$%@($%@($&@$
(did burn plugs both times I went to the track too)

 

I think its in your tune bro.

Good luck!

Keith

 

Do you always burn the passenger side plugs?

Edit: I read the #1 is always burnt and the second plug is random on either side.

 

a tad bit hot.

 

The color of those plugs is all over the place. I remember you talking about the injectors before. It does look like it's receiving varying amounts of fuel to the different plugs.

 

wasnt your stock motor doing the same thing? IIRC
the only thing i could think of is the tune is weird, unless your coils are spiking. somehow, i dont know if it is even possable

 

I cant say yes to that.
DEF more on the Pass side, but not always 100% that side

Here's the 1st set, we did have 1 on the DS,
Again look how each is diff, some are white, some red, some ash,....
And this was the ONLY TIME it wasnt #1,



Here's a set that lasted one WOT



Here's a great example of another issue, it's like someone drew a line and as you'll see half is burning white, and half black. A very clear change, and it's divided EXACTLY up the middle.
I SEE THIS ON ALMOST EVERY CYLIDER EVERYTIME

 

No
NO ISSUES on the old motor
I did burn TR6's when it was brand new, but then had the same set of Denso's in there for racing season 02, 03, and 04, and ran 10 times more than now.

I did crack a porc on the last run of 04, but after 3 years I COULD NOT COMPLAIN

Yes Chuck, Sal and everyone seems to say these 50's suck monkey ***,
it's just so hard to belive some have great results, and me I cant go WOT
@(O^@($%@$(%@$)@$)@$&)@$&

 

Pass Side again

 

I would be looking at those injectors. Have you tried swapping from side to side to see if the problem follows? Ideally I'd find another set to try if at all possible as you do not want to keep hurting plugs. Eventually you will hurt more.

Jody

 

Personally I'd have the injectors flow tested just to be sure thats not the problem. You could also try swapping coil packs with a local member and see if that does anything?

 

Wow two great idea's in a row THANKS

How hard is it to do the injectors ?
My thought would be if they have to come out to be swaped or tested,
THEY AINT GOING BACK IN, 60's are.

Hey V,
Send me your coils buddy,

lets see new injectors AGAIN, New Coils, Re-tuning, ...
@&$(@#$(@#$(@#$^(@#$(@#$@(#&$%@(#$%@($@($%@R$#*($( @$%(*@$#$^(@#$^@^#$@$#@^#$%^$%@(^#$%#^$%#$%@#$%($@ #^(@#%(@$#^%$(

 

Pre-ignition

Defined as: ignition of the air/fuel mixture before the pre-set ignition timing mark
Caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber...can be caused
(or amplified) by over advanced timing, too hot a spark plug, low octane fuel, lean air/fuel mixture, too high compression, or insufficient engine cooling
A change to a higher octane fuel, a colder plug, richer fuel mixture,
or lower compression may be in order
You may also need to retard ignition timing, and check vehicle's cooling system
Pre-ignition usually leads to detonation; pre-ignition an detonation are two separate events

Detonation

The spark plug's worst enemy! (Besides fouling)
Can break insulators or break off ground electrodes
Pre-ignition most often leads to detonation
Plug tip temperatures can spike to over 3000°F during the combustion process (in a racing engine)
Most frequently caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber.
Hot spots will allow the air/fuel mixture to pre-ignite. As the piston is being forced upward by mechanical action of the connecting rod, the pre-ignited explosion will try to force the piston downward. If the piston can't go up (because of the force of the premature explosion) and it can't go down (because of the upward mo-tion of the connecting rod), the piston will rattle from side to side. The resulting shock wave causes an audible pinging sound. This is detonation.
Most of the damage than an engine sustains when "detonating" is from excessive heat
The spark plug is damaged by both the elevated temperatures and the accompanying shock wave, or concussion

Misfires

A spark plug is said to have misfired when enough voltage has not been delivered to light off all fuel present in the combustion chamber at the proper moment of the power stroke (a few degrees before top dead center)
A spark plug can deliver a weak spark (or no spark at all) for a variety of reasons...defective coil, too much compression with incorrect
plug gap, dry fouled or wet fouled spark plugs, insufficient ignition timing, etc.
Slight misfires can cause a loss of performance for obvious reasons (if fuel is not lit, no energy is be-ing created)
Severe misfires will cause poor fuel economy, poor driveability, and can lead to engine damage

Fouling

Will occur when spark plug tip temperature is insufficient to burn off carbon, fuel, oil or other deposits
Will cause spark to leach to metal shell...no spark across plug gap will cause a misfire
Wet-fouled spark plugs must be changed...spark plugs will not fire
Dry-fouled spark plugs can sometimes be cleaned by bringing engine up to operating temperature
Before changing fouled spark plugs, be sure to eliminate root
cause of fouling

 

Rob: Ever heard how some women aren't happy unless they are in crisis?

I think your truck is one of those.

 

I don't think it is the coil packs. My first thought after seeing that there is no pattern to which plugs are roasting, was fuel pressure inconsistency. My second thought was injectors delivering the fuel inconsistently.

I assume Sal has checked fuel pressure already...if not, check it.

I had 50lb injectors in my first built motor. They started running out of steam when I went over 500 HP. Folks told me that they should be good for that amount of HP, but my plugs started getting real hot like yours, only they never burned off electrodes, just showed some signs of melting/bubbling. I went to 55's and it fixed the problem.

My recent built motor puts out around 650 HP and I am using the 60's now. You may want to also go to a colder plug...meaning it will disapate heat better. NGK's seem to take abuse better for me. The densoes would get stress cracks around the insulator and after reading about guys having them break off, i decided not to risk it and went NGK's.

Just some thoughts...hope you get it figured out Rob. Think of the bright side...once you figure it out, the high from it will equal smoking a lb of weed .