Rob, break the bank, LOL you should see the beautiful polished KB Rob just sent me (I WISH!!!!! YOU READING THIS ROB, YOU GOT MY ADDRESS YOU SOB SEND ME A KB!!!! A POLISHED ONE TOO!!!! )

WaveBlaster785, I agree with what you are saying and I also must say that it's the little setbacks that can actually cost more in the long run. I know that from my mustang days and even now with my L

Hence in Rob's case, why it's important to heed to the advise of a tuner with expertise such as Sal from the get go. I strongly agree with you concerning buying the best parts that one can afford for that moment in time, I know I've done that, but in some cases it's best to just wait till one can afford the part in question and not settle for something a little less than ideal which can in the long run be the reason for a costly setback.

Now, back to Rob's checking account, credit card accounts and so on, I've got all the info and I am feeling like Santa right now! ANYONE WANT KB or NOS KIT care of ol' Rob?!?!!


-Chris

p.s. Waveblaster785, shoot me your paypal account info and I'll forward a couple of grand to your account from one of Rob's 50k line of credit credit cards! HE'S GOT 0% interest till next month even!

 

Hey Rob, dont get down. There is too much good about this L community. We have all had other performance vehicles, but there is something extra special about our trucks.
Injectors are fairly easy to change and I bet someone has 60s to try. It will of course need a tune change.
The insert problem is something I worry about as well. I will remember to speak with JDM about this as my new motor is being readied.
A bore scope is required after the problems you have had. If there is any imperfection in the bores hot spots are innevitable.
The egt probes for each cylinder are what we talked about saturday. If the easier fies dont work I strongly reccomend this step.
Go to the NGK plugs until you sort out your combo for price alone. I bet you can come up with some good take out plugs from your friends to ease the pain of $$$.
Good luck and keep the faith. I trust we will both be back in action for the fall season.
Jim

 

Dale
You can get the same insert in aluminum or copper....both will do the job.

When I was at LFest last year...my A/F ratio was solid middle 10's but the plugs (Autolite AR474 race plugs) were coming out looking ash grey to white just like Robs plugs, my heads had steel inserts.
If I hadn't broke a cylinder head and would have had time to get the A/F up into the middle 11's....I'm sure the plugs would have melted in a heart beat.
Dale

 

Exactly what I've been doing.

And SWEET, now I can get a turbo, heads, cams and BTS. Sweet.

 

Rob
seriously- toss the stock lower back on so you can atleast drive it around and have some fun and maybe even spray it a bit
i am leaving my stock lower on till next winter so i can save up some money to get new injectors and a new maf, i am still having a great time with my 413 ponies
at least this way you deff wont be hurting anything ya know

 

Rob

From the look of that picture of the insert, the lower portion is melted.
The insert must be projecting into the cylinder for it to do that.
I'd guess that the threads on the insert are getting hot under load and causing pre-ignition thus melting the plugs,
Can you trim anything off the lower portion of the insert and try it?

 

Rob I didnt read all the posts but if your built motor has a taller piston your comp. ratio will be higher with more heat, even if your air fuel is perfect,maybe see if there is a shim of some sort to get your plug away from the top of your piston just a RCH or so,and maybe try to get a bore scope in one of the sparkplug holes to take a look at a piston top,ask Sal, but it seems your engine might like water/alky to cool things down a bit. just my 02 might not mean schitt good luck

 

I think ^ is on the money. Now that we've seen the insert pic showing protrusion into the combustion chamber. Definitely a hot spot that retains heat with no heat-sink into the head on the inside tip. Chop those inserts shorter and I bet the problem goes away. Do it to all of them.

 

Charles, Thanks for posting Pal thumbsup
I do not have any of that info unfortunately, if Sal does I sure hope he post it. We have not taken a compression (or any) test either, but here's a picture of my pistons

Sal holding one



Installed


Here's the inserts, they do look good
Dont mind the writting, I was showing someone how detonation eats heads
WHAT SCARES ME IS, my old motor only cooked a plug ONCE, and if that happen from one time, HOLY WHATS IT LOOK LIKE NOW BATMAN : o ()



Charles, now that I know this has nothing to do with the Mag, as soon as I figure out my REAL PROBLEM, I see no reason why the Mag cant go back on. Me and Sal have been talking about it, let us get past this first, and then I want to somehow make it up to you : o ( I OWE YOU BIG TIME

So whats the answer here family ???

AM I FK the rest of my L life due to the steel inserts ?
Do I have to de-tune the truck BIG TIME to be able to MAYBE hold plugs ?
Run a super rich AF ?
Take Boost and Timing away ?
Spend another 6 Hundred on Injectors + Labor + Tuning and HOPE it helps
WHY DONT I JUST PUSH IT AROUND (@#%@(#@(#$@($%$@@($%(@$

The one thing I dont understand is this, LOTS of people run 50 lb injectors
Don runs 10 sec ET's with his
BTJ is kissing the 10 sec door step with his on a ported Eaton
Vinnie ran then for years, and has ET's on them I never will
Schitt If my memory serves me correct, Johnny ran 9's with them, DEF 10's
JJ still runs them and 10's are cake every time out
My buddy Gator had over 500 HP pumping through his and it ran awesome
WHY CANT I RUN THEM with a measly 450/580 ???
Remember my REAL ET HP is the 150 HP of Nitrous, and that has NOTHING to do with the Injectors. Schitt I should be able to put the stock injectors back in for 450 HP, AND MAYBE I WILL
CAUSE I WANT TO MAKE A 600 HP RUN BEFORE THE YRS OUT GOT DAM IT

Right now the truck is running fine, I'm going to take it out for a nice ride today, enjoy a day at the water park with jr, look at young large breasted babes, and hope a few bikini's fall off in the wave pool (happens all the time), hehehehehehehe

EDIT
I PROMISE NO LONG WOT, hehehehehe

 

I think you are missing the possbility that you have BAD 50lb injectors. Didn't you buy them used? How do you know they are operating to spec?

-Mark

 

No Mark

I got them from Woodbine BRAND NEW and was told they were flow tested

 

Rob,

Your spark plugs are burning off because of detonation and/or combustion temperatures that are much too high. Most likely something about the new engine is causing this since your old engine did not have the problem. The only thing I know of that has changed that could effect this is the pistons, the injectors and inserts.

Detonation is caused by the combination of temperature, pressure and “time under pressure”. We must figure out what is causing your detonation problem. A compression ratio that is too high will increase “pressure” that can contribute to detonation. A low buck way to get an idea of the compression ratio is to run a compression check and compare that to others running a stock camshaft like yours. From the pictures it appears the pistons have a stock look but without knowing the piston’s spec’s it’s hard to know for sure. Perhaps some high compression pistons somehow found their way into your block.

Another low buck thing to try is to raise your fuel pressure above the stock pressure by 5 pounds or so and have it retuned on the fat side and see what happens. Without the 60’s raising the fuel pressure is only way I know of to get more fuel in there, and it’s a low buck test.

The inserts are raising your spark plug temperature, its just physics at work. The additional boundary layer created by the insert raises the thermal resistance and will raise the spark plug temperature. A low buck test for this is to install some very cold plugs like NGK BR9 or BR10 plugs and see what happens. The steel inserts could be causing hot spots and thereby causing pre-ignition. I can’t think of a low buck test for that at the moment, thinking…..

Spark advance (lead) raises the combustion temperature and increases the “time” the gasses are under pressure and temperature. You might consider running less spark lead.

Thanks Rob for recognizing the Mag is not the source of all your problems. As you can see the additional 4-5 psi boost the Mag makes over a ported blower just compounded the effects of the root detonation problem.

Charles

 

I going to take Rob for a ride in a Magnum powered truck..........very soon.
After he gets all the WOOOOOO-HOOOOOO's out of his system (Like that will ever happen He will understand COMPLETELY the power available from a Magnum powered truck. You just need to understand how to harness the extra power the Magnum provides And my truck knows how too

Got some extra information for you Rob.........we need to talk tonight! Iam going out to celebrate the results of my Stainless 309 weld test Call after 9 tonight........I might slur, but you should be use to that by now

 

Oh well back from the Water Park, no Bikini malfuntions @$%@#($%@$(
But plenty TT to see anyway, WOO HOO

Thanks for the idea's Charles, I will DEF use some of them, and more thanks for mentioning BR9's and 10's, I didnt even know they made them, but after reading this I already asked Sal to order me some.

As You and pretty much everyone esle knows Charles , I get very upset and really pissed off when my Beast isnt running 100%. I do and say things that I realize later sometimes hurts people. THAT WAS / IS NEVER MY INTENTION,
and you all know that. I've spent the last couple of weeks trying to make things right with a lot of peope I hurt, as a result of some of my decisions and post. You Charles bent over backwards for me and without me EVER wanting to, I hurt you, and for that I will always be sorry : o (
You believed in me, you helped me BIG TIME, and I unknowingly (but should have realized) hurt you. Gator will VERY SHORTLY prove to the world just how good a Magnum Powers SC is capable of running, and I KNOW he will be putting down #'s NO ONE has ever before. AMOF I'll take the bet with anyone, he in fact will be THEE FASTEST MAGNUM POWERS BEAST IN THE WORLD. When Sal and I get past this issue, I truly hope to Bolt mine back on and continue our quest too, but one thing at a time right now.....

Sal
I have to say one more thing, YES I'M PISSED OFF BIG TIME, but the anger IS NOT towards you, it's towards the situation. Your a friend, you saved me thousands and thousands of dollars, you've stayed late, worked Sundays, we've dyno in the wee hours of the morning, and you've no doubt lost money on me by now. You didnt sell me the inserts, (or anything for that matter), I asked for the inserts, and I asked to re-use the Heads and Cams,
you only gave me what I asked for, yet you made sure I had the best of everything when it came to building one hell of a bullet proff bottom end,
I Thank You for all you've done, and I know you'll get me through this.
Sorry for flying off the handle like this.....

(see how nice I can be when I take my medicine)

 

Rob
I wouldnt even think of running Denso's or NGK. Run something a little more robust like an AR472 or AR473 Autolite race plug....this would be a good test.
Problem with that plug is that it will probably live under wide open throttle but will foul out in fairly short time because they are so cold. I think the 472 is the equivelant of a NGK BR-12 or something

The only way to fix it is to pull the heads and do the plug inserts over and then put a set of Manley valve springs in it while its apart. Your truck will scream. And you're right about the injectors....I'm pretty sure thats not your problem.
Dale