05 F-150 had a stroke!
#1
05 F-150 had a stroke!
It seems that the left side of my truck is seeing the after affects of a stroke. Last weekend, i noticed the radio stayed on after taking key out and shutting door. I found a thread on that one. But....I also lost PW, PL, PM all on the drivers side door, and low beam headlight on the left side. Standard cab with 4 doors. I checked all fuses with meter and they all seemed well. We have experienced some extreme cold weather here in the last 1 1/2 weeks. some of my buds say it could possibly be due to that with the plastic contracting and such. I have checked all of the door switches and have power to all, but no action from switches. Help me please, Mister, for the love of all that is Ford. Chad
#2
This sounds a lot like another problem I just posted a reply to. Our trucks have a history of the wiring under the door sill near the A pillar on the driver's side becoming pinched/damaged. I suspect this is your problem and it's easily fixed once you open that area so you can find the damage.
Edit: This thread has some pictures: https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...oor-opens.html but the damage seems to be back near the rear of the door opening.
It could be this too: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...door-wire.html, although I don't see how your headlights would be effected.
- Jack
Edit: This thread has some pictures: https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...oor-opens.html but the damage seems to be back near the rear of the door opening.
It could be this too: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...door-wire.html, although I don't see how your headlights would be effected.
- Jack
Last edited by JackandJanet; 02-21-2015 at 05:32 PM.
#3
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
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I see what appears to be 2 problems.
1. Headlamp low beam = Burn out bulb.
This is the most likely issue. If a lamp in your house has a burnt out bulb, you just change it. You don't go to the electrical panel to check fuses or breakers.
Purchase a new bulb and when you remove the headlamp, check the bulb connector for + VDC before opening the new bulb.
- Make sure you are on the low beam pin, not the high beam pin and obviously make sure the headlamps are turned on when you test this.
Also might just want to get a pair of them, the other side will be out in short order.
2. I would go with a ground issue with the list of symptoms you have.
There are too many items with different fuses to be the same.
Quick test, use the power window switch, the illumination for the switch is the black wire on the connector. Test for continuity or resistance ( which ever your meter has ) to the ground lug in the driver's side kick panel.
Here is the ground lug in the driver's side ( ignore the circuit notes, this is for a different thread )
I would suspect you will have no continuity or infinity ohms with a resistance setting ( check your meter for how this is displayed ) and the black wire in the rubber boot is broke ( ala the URL Jack provided above ).
1. Headlamp low beam = Burn out bulb.
This is the most likely issue. If a lamp in your house has a burnt out bulb, you just change it. You don't go to the electrical panel to check fuses or breakers.
Purchase a new bulb and when you remove the headlamp, check the bulb connector for + VDC before opening the new bulb.
- Make sure you are on the low beam pin, not the high beam pin and obviously make sure the headlamps are turned on when you test this.
Also might just want to get a pair of them, the other side will be out in short order.
2. I would go with a ground issue with the list of symptoms you have.
There are too many items with different fuses to be the same.
Quick test, use the power window switch, the illumination for the switch is the black wire on the connector. Test for continuity or resistance ( which ever your meter has ) to the ground lug in the driver's side kick panel.
Here is the ground lug in the driver's side ( ignore the circuit notes, this is for a different thread )
I would suspect you will have no continuity or infinity ohms with a resistance setting ( check your meter for how this is displayed ) and the black wire in the rubber boot is broke ( ala the URL Jack provided above ).
#4
#7
Thanks guys
I did purchase new headlights thinking that was the issue there, but still no low beam on drivers side. i did see the link for the corroded wire issue. Gonna try that one out and see what i come up with. I will also check my ground lug, that seems to me like it would be a good culprit. Thanks again, Chad
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#9
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
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I think I get too much credit for the member completing their own diagnoses.
- Might be from my suggested test, or one that member did in the process of checking my suggestions.
A broken clock has the correct min position 24 times a day, but is only completely accurate 2 times a day.
- Might be from my suggested test, or one that member did in the process of checking my suggestions.
A broken clock has the correct min position 24 times a day, but is only completely accurate 2 times a day.
#10
I think I get too much credit for the member completing their own diagnoses.
- Might be from my suggested test, or one that member did in the process of checking my suggestions.
A broken clock has the correct min position 24 times a day, but is only completely accurate 2 times a day.
- Might be from my suggested test, or one that member did in the process of checking my suggestions.
A broken clock has the correct min position 24 times a day, but is only completely accurate 2 times a day.
- Jack
#11
#12