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I have a 2005 Crew Cab Lariat with a driver side power door lock problem, any suggestions on a fix would be appreciated. Here's the problem....
The power door lock on the front driver side will lock the door locks, but will not unlock them. When using the passenger side controls or the keyless remote, the locks work fine, they lock and unlock perfectly.
I have already tested the driver side toggle switch by swapping the switch with the passenger side, and the problem remains the same, so I know it's not a switch problem.
If the driver toggle switch is hooked up to the passenger side, the switch works perfectly. If the passenger toggle switch is hooked up to the driver side, the unlock will not work once again.
The locks are not binding in any way as when using the passenger side switch or the remote, the locks go up and down very quickly and sound very strong.
The problem happens with the ignition on or off.
I have tired spraying WD40 on the lock, the switch, the wiring harness.
The wires from the wiring harness look fine have not been cut or slices. I have NOT taken the door panel apart and followed the wires to check for cut wire. I was hoping to do that this weekend if necessary.
It seems like one day it just happened. Is there something I can do to prevent it from happening in the future.
Over time and many door open/close cycles, even the finely stranded automotive wire used there will eventually fatigue and separate. Additionally - in extreme cold, the insulation tends to become brittle - and eventually begins to crack. Add repetitive motion + time, and ....
Not much you can do without replacing it all with something a lot more exotic. Meanwhile - it suffices to know that this is a potential failure point and watch for the signs ( electrical gremlins).
I looked at all the post and none of these seemed to solve the issue.
1) Tore the door panel off. Inspected the wires inside of the door... no luck. Inspected the wiring between the door and the car frame -- removed the grommet...NO LUCK. All wires seemed fine
2) I doubt its the actuator because the door will lock and unlock with key fob, key-less door entry, & passenger door.
I have read on other forums that it could possibly be the Body Security Module. Could you explain why this might cause the UNLOCK button to not work properly? Any how can I make this repair?
I looked at all the post and none of these seemed to solve the issue.
1) Tore the door panel off. Inspected the wires inside of the door... no luck. Inspected the wiring between the door and the car frame -- removed the grommet...NO LUCK. All wires seemed fine
2) I doubt its the actuator because the door will lock and unlock with key fob, key-less door entry, & passenger door.
I have read on other forums that it could possibly be the Body Security Module. Could you explain why this might cause the UNLOCK button to not work properly? Any how can I make this repair?
Thank you. Ok I after reading the forum I believe its BSM. How do I repair it? What am I looking to repair? I have not seen pictures using a google search.
Thank you. Ok I after reading the forum I believe its BSM. How do I repair it? What am I looking to repair? I have not seen pictures using a google search.
Do you have links?
It's not repairable - you replace it.
Location:
If that is what you suspect, take yer VIN to a dealer, or contact Tasca (with VIN) to get a new one.
You could try fleabay, but you take yer chances ...
I doubt it is the BSM, due to the test point you provide that the passenger side door lock button and the RKE will unlock the doors.
- The BSM has a single input for the lock or unlock command that both switches are connected to.
You have a broken wire on the driver's side on the Pink w/ light green stripe wire. It could be at the connector itself.
If the door will lock ( with either switch ) on the driver's side, you know that the ground is good. Ground is what the switch is applying to the BSM for the lock or unlock function.
Sorry but you need to go back and find where the wire is broken between the switch and the splice for the passenger side.
If it was a ground issue on the driver's side the lock would also not work.
Get an Ohm meter out and check between both doors on the Pink w/ Light green stripe wire for continuity, from the connector pin to connector pin.
When this shows an open, you will need to trace backwards to see where continuity fails.
I would next start from the driver's side kick panel to the connector pins, as that is the most likely place for the break, vs behind the dash.
- There is possible and probable, so it could be anywhere. If you hear hooves you would expect horses not zebras.
Sorry brute force diagnoses time.
Doing a Remove & Replace is a bad idea, as it would just be quicker to just light 200.00 on fire, based on your descriptions in the thread.
I doubt it is the BSM, due to the test point you provide that the passenger side door lock button and the RKE will unlock the doors.
- The BSM has a single input for the lock or unlock command that both switches are connected to.
You have a broken wire on the driver's side on the Pink w/ light green stripe wire. It could be at the connector itself.
If the door will lock ( with either switch ) on the driver's side, you know that the ground is good. Ground is what the switch is applying to the BSM for the lock or unlock function.
Sorry but you need to go back and find where the wire is broken between the switch and the splice for the passenger side.
If it was a ground issue on the driver's side the lock would also not work.
Get an Ohm meter out and check between both doors on the Pink w/ Light green stripe wire for continuity, from the connector pin to connector pin.
When this shows an open, you will need to trace backwards to see where continuity fails.
I would next start from the driver's side kick panel to the connector pins, as that is the most likely place for the break, vs behind the dash.
- There is possible and probable, so it could be anywhere. If you hear hooves you would expect horses not zebras.
Sorry brute force diagnoses time.
Doing a Remove & Replace is a bad idea, as it would just be quicker to just light 200.00 on fire, based on your descriptions in the thread.
Thank you for your advice.
Last night tore open the back door sill in order to follow the wires back to the BSM. I found quite a bit of moisture in this area. I took a hair dry and some "electrical" cleaner. Still no luck on getting the power lock to open.
I agree that a bad wire or connector.
I have taken the door panel off, pulled that grommet between the door, rear door sill... I assume it somewhere I have not located. My question next would be: How do you repair a broken wire, when you can not located the area that is broke?
I'd assume the stealership would be the place to go, but I'd assume its not a cheap labor cost to get it repaired.
Not too sure why you were wasting time with a hairdryer and contact cleaner. if the wire is broken, this is not going to fix it, that is where solder, soldering iron and heat shrink tube are needed.
You need to start with an Ohm meter and check between both doors on the Pink w/ Light green stripe wire for continuity, from the connector pin to connector pin.
I suspect this is going to show an open, and the next step is to take some point in the pink w/ light green stripe wire and test it to the driver's side connector pins.
I suggested at the driver's side kick panel, as that is the probable place it is not broken, but that is supposition on my part.
You would use an insulation piercing tool to hook the meter up.
The ones I have from Amazon:
You would pull the Pink w/ Light green stripe wire out of the bundle where it enters the truck, on the driver's side A-pillar, and install the insulation piercing tool and plug one of the meter leads into it.
Next turn the meter to continuity or ohms and take a measurement from the piercing tool to the driver's side door connector pin for the pink w/ light green stripe wire.
I suspect this is going to show an open also.
A quick secondary verification is to continuity test from the piercing tool to the passenger side, to see if that is an open as well.
Given I am not suggesting the half way point ( it is more 90-10 ) this is how one locates an open, keep cutting the circuit in half until the open is found.
splice S341 is in the Passenger Side Kick panel, so you could start at that splice point as well, working your way towards the driver's door.
You are going to need a meter and some way of getting to the wire through the insulation.
You could go with removing the insulation with a knife, but you have a larger opening to retape ( BTW : Use 3M cold weather electrical tape on the blue card to tape close the pin piercing ) and also run a chance of cutting through the wire if you get a bit "ham fisted" with it.
It is going to require the meter and some regimented testing to find the open in the wire.
If you do not think you have it in you to do this, any reputable shop can locate the open just as well or better than the Ford dealer. You would need to locate a shop with references that you trust.
01-14-2015, 07:42 AM
