Rotor time, slotted

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  #16  
Old 06-01-2010, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Galaxy
Cross-drilled has the tendency to crack outwards from the holes if it's not a top quality item. I probably wouldn't worry too much about cross drilling from someone like Baer or Brembo...but that'd be about it.
this, and in extreme conditions a hot rotor going through cold water, could crack and explode when cold water goes in a cross drilled hole. or the other side of the table, cold rotor goes through water, then freeze and could crack when the water expands as it turns to ice
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by animated_zombie
... My factory rotors were attached to the hubs. I wasn't aware of this until I started the installation, and had to figure out a way to get my hands on separate hubs without buying more rotors. Check this before you start, it will save a lot of headache ...

... at start-up my brakes still feel warped. I have a pulsation in the pedals and I don't know why. On top of that, my ABS light comes on after about 5 minutes of driving; again I don't know why. Strange correlation, but as soon as my ABS light kicks on, the pulsations in the pedal goes away ...

... Edit: Forgot to mention that the Hawk Pads are ceramic. ...
You had 4x4 rotors, which just slide over the lugs between the wheel and axle hub. The 2WD front rotors include the hub and are fitted to a spindle (because there is no front axle).

Not sure about the ABS light coming on, but that pulsation could be related to mistakes in reassembly, especially with the wheel bearings. If you didn't do it the first time, I'd go back and make sure you repacked (or replaced) the bearings correctly. Also check the spindle nut installation (it should be on with a little resistance, but not tight). Good luck; hope you get this figured out. They do look nice.

Hawk pads - like pretty much any brand name - come in many formulations, including multiple semi-metallic and ceramic options. The Hawk "HPS" pads recommended by PowerSlot are semi-metallic. Of course if you just meant to inform that the ones you're running are the ceramics, then right on.


Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
... 4wds are much easier to work with. ...
Sure, if you can get the old rotors off!
 

Last edited by ucfperspicere; 06-01-2010 at 10:30 AM.
  #18  
Old 06-01-2010, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ucfperspicere
You had 4x4 rotors, which just slide over the lugs between the wheel and axle hub. The 2WD front rotors include the hub and are fitted to a spindle (because there is no front axle).

Not sure about the ABS light coming on, but that pulsation could be related to mistakes in reassembly, especially with the wheel bearings. If you didn't do it the first time, I'd go back and make sure you repacked (or replaced) the bearings correctly. Also check the spindle nut installation (it should be on with a little resistance, but not tight). Good luck; hope you get this figured out. They do look nice.

Hawk pads - like pretty much any brand name - come in many formulations, including multiple semi-metallic and ceramic options. The Hawk "HPS" pads recommended by PowerSlot are semi-metallic. Of course if you just meant to inform that the ones you're running are the ceramics, then right on.




Sure, if you can get the old rotors off!
true. But my left front rotor was pretty loose and free when I had the caliper and pads off of it, I think it will come off very easily once the caliper bracket is off. It the rear ones that will be more tricky.
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ucfperspicere
You had 4x4 rotors, which just slide over the lugs between the wheel and axle hub. The 2WD front rotors include the hub and are fitted to a spindle (because there is no front axle).

Not sure about the ABS light coming on, but that pulsation could be related to mistakes in reassembly, especially with the wheel bearings. If you didn't do it the first time, I'd go back and make sure you repacked (or replaced) the bearings correctly. Also check the spindle nut installation (it should be on with a little resistance, but not tight). Good luck; hope you get this figured out. They do look nice.

Hawk pads - like pretty much any brand name - come in many formulations, including multiple semi-metallic and ceramic options. The Hawk "HPS" pads recommended by PowerSlot are semi-metallic. Of course if you just meant to inform that the ones you're running are the ceramics, then right on.




Sure, if you can get the old rotors off!

Good info, I'll have to back and check it out; and yes I meant that the ones I'm running are ceramics
 
  #20  
Old 06-14-2010, 06:45 PM
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So does anyone know where the best place is to buy from? Over $400 is going to hurt but I think I will do it.
 
  #21  
Old 06-14-2010, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
So does anyone know where the best place is to buy from? Over $400 is going to hurt but I think I will do it.
I think I bought the exact ones you're wanting: Power Slot Cryo Frozen Rotors (with the polar bear logo) set from TireRack and paid $388.74 so $400 sounds about right. Note that this is a '99 though, my '08 only has 7K on it so I don't want to replace the stock rotors yet.

I didn't do the work myself but the master tech who installed them said that his best friend who has a rock crawler sends all the parts to be cryo-treated prior to installation and swears by that process.

The pads are ceramic as recommended by the master tech. It's only been 2 days but so far so good. No pics yet b/c I picked it up Saturday and am feeling lazy right now since it's Monday LOL.
 
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:07 AM
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I ordered Centric blanks with Wagner TQ pads from Rock Auto and they're as smooth as butter with very little dust. I was going to go slotted but couldn't justify the extra cash just for appearance, especially when the average person wouldn't know what they're looking at anyways.

Whatever you do, be sure that the rotors use OE spec metallurgy. A lot of the cheaper products are actually steel which doesn't dissipate heat as well as an iron rotor, and well...you know what happens should brakes over heat.
 
  #23  
Old 06-15-2010, 05:05 PM
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Sounds about right price wise Darren....I have Powerslot slotted rotors (non cyro) and Hawk LTS pads....work great, stops on a dime, great wear, no noise and very low dust.

Have had them about a year and no issues.
 
  #24  
Old 06-15-2010, 05:31 PM
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goin back to animated zombie i had my discs grinded down at the stealership so they wouldnt be warped...i guess they are again cuz when i break the thing is vibrating again!!! let us know what your experience is with whatever u choose bud
 
  #25  
Old 06-15-2010, 05:42 PM
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Sounds like you already have your mind made up Darren. Im running EBC greenstuff pads with their slotted and dimpled rotors. I have absolutley no brake dust and the wear is amazing.
 
  #26  
Old 06-15-2010, 06:06 PM
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I bought from brakeperformance.com and got the slotted and dimpled I couldn't be happier with them. They do still brake dust a lot but that's the pads.
 
  #27  
Old 06-15-2010, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by animated_zombie
Strange correlation, but as soon as my ABS light kicks on, the pulsations in the pedal goes away
not a strange correlation at all. there is an issue with your ABS system and that is where the pulsation is coming from. after driving a few minutes, the ABS computer notices that there is a malfunction and shuts off the ABS function. this leaves you with normal braking (as if your truck didn't have ABS at all) and you no longer get the pulsation because the ABS isn't working.

if i'm looking at your post correctly, you swapped your 2wd hubs for 4wd ones? this could be your problem right there. the ABS sensors are probably different between hubs which is causing the malfunction in the ABS system. you need to have a shop pull the ABS codes to determine the root cause of the problem, but i'm betting that's what it is.
 



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