Has anyone had this idle/hesitation problem and and bad oxygen sensor fixed it. I had my "check engine" light scanned and had two codes: PO133 and PO1131. Both of these codes, I believe are related to the oxygen sensor. Also is there anyway to know which sensor is bad, Autozone couldn't tell with their scanner. How hard is an oxygen sensor to change and what should I know.

 

I haven't changed mine yet. Sometimes they can be a b*tch to get out because of the high heat they see. But basically you just unplug the wiring harness from the sensor and then use a wrench to remove it. Put a new one in.

Problem is, there are 4 of them at around $100cdn a pop so it can get expensive if you don't know which one.

I would start with the upstream sensors (closer to the motor) as they probably see more heat than the other two farther down the exhaust. Just my 2 cents though.

I have heard that oxygen sensors should be considered a regular maintenance item as they do deteriorate over time. Anyone have an opinion on that statement? One a side note, I've never seen this much piddly trouble with other vehicles. These oxygen sensors should be lasting a lot longer.

 

Well I did change mine, front, passenger side. It was a serious b*tch to get to the plug. There is just no room to get your hands in there. Finally got though and check engine light is off and truck runs alot better.

 

That's good news Chewy20, how did you know which one to change? Just a guess and lucky? I suppose one could always find a pet monkey to put a voltmeter on each oxygen sensor as you're going 70mph down the freeway.

How much did each one cost and where'd you buy it from?

 

I found these at www.oxygensensors.com , $49.95usd each for a 1998 F150 4.6L.





Same price for both sensors (ahead and behind cats).

 

Same price as auto zone.

 

I had Autozone read my check engine light code and it said PO133 and PO1131 which were both 02 sensor codes. PO133 also stated: bank 1, sensor 1. After putting this info on this message board I got all the info I needed. Also found a listing of codes in my Haynes repair manual.

 

Ok, I just found this thread because I just bought my 98' 4.6L Expedition and found a rough idle problem.
I just wanted to know what the final word about this rough Idle is, after 23 pages? I read the first 6 pages and saw a lot of the same fixes but no solid resolution.
What is it? A O2 sensor or the Idle Air Control Valve?
Mine only seems to do it in gear and when the Idle drops below 800 RPMs. Otherwise the truck ROCKS! and gets 17-18 mpg.

My wife drives this truck so of course, you guys that are married know that I have to fix it or hear about it for the rest of my life.
Thanks guys,

 

jwrape,
There doesn't seem to be one certain thing that will fix the rough idle. If you can fix it at all. Some have experimented and gotten there trucks to run better and also get good overtime. My truck still has the rough idle and my gas mileage has never gotten any better than 12 or 13 if I am lucky. I have learned to live with my problem. My trucks idle is bad at times and no ilde problems at times. Who knows what's wrong with it. Good luck and keep us informed if you find anything that works for you.

 

It's weird, yesterday it stopped idleing bad and the check engine light went off. All is well for now. We will see how it goes

 

I wonder if we could all get together and start a class action lawsuit against Ford for a defective product related to the rough idle problem that many of us are experiencing

 

Way back when 36racin started this thread (Aug. 2000?) I was in here posting about the exact same problem with my truck. 36 and I exchanged a few ideas and never really came up with anything solid. I went off for over a year drilling into this problem on my own and I have found the solution after Lord knows how many hours of research. I did alot of the same things you guys have done, perhaps as few more even. A short list -->

1. Changed fuel filter
2. Replaced Throttle Position Sensor
3. Replaced IAC Valve
4. Cleaned fuel system twice with RedLine cleaner
5. Changed gas brands many times
6. SuperChip
7. AirForce One Intake
8. Replaced EGR valve
9. Take apart and clean MAF sensor
10. Take apart and clean temp. sensor
11. Treat gas with Marvel Mystery Oil (don't laugh, this is great stuff)
12. Can't rememember the rest of it........

I had it to the dealer on 5 seperate occasions and like most of you I either got a "CND", no codes thrown or "it's normal" from the dealer.

I was about ready to give up when I found this thing known as an SSM that details this rough idle problem. First thing is that it acknowledges that Ford is aware that this problem exists. Secondly, it details a 2 phase fix for the problem. The down side is that unless you are still under warranty, the fix costs almost $700.00.

Price not withstanding, I had my truck done at the dealer over a month ago and it is idling as steady as a rock (not a dig at Chevy). I waited a month to post this in order to be sure that the SSM fix actually did work and it has. An SSM will eventually become a TSB and visible to the "public". SSM's are not so I need to safeguard my resources. I will tell you that it was pretty funny to see the dealer's expression when I waived the SSM in his face.

If any of you would like the actual SSM to go back to your dealer with, here are the details:

12738 1997-2000 EXDP/NAVI/F-SERIES LD - IDLE VIBRATION
SOME 1997-2000 EXPEDITION/NAVIGATOR/F150/250LD, EQUIPPED WITH THE 4.6L & 5.4L ENGINES MAY EXHIBIT A IDLE VIBRATION. USE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE TO NEUTRALIZE THE EXHAUST, TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE MOUNTS. 1)LOOSEN THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS: TRANSMISSION MOUNT NUTS TO CROSSMEMBER, PASSENGER SIDE ENGINE MOUNT TO FRAME, DRIVERS SIDE ENGINE MOUNT BOLT, EXHAUST PIPE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND EXHAUST HANGER AT TRANSMISSION MOUNT. 2)APPLY PARKING BRAKE, APPLY SERVICE BRAKE AND START ENGINE. PLACE TRANSMISSION IN DRIVE AND REV ENGINE TO 2000 RPM, RETURN ENGINE TO IDLE, SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO REVERSE AND REV ENGINE TO 2000 RPM, REPEAT DRIVE AND REVERSE ENGINE PORTION OF STEP 2. SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL AND REV ENGINE ONE TIME TO 3000 RPM, TURN OFF ENGINE AND SHIFT TRANSMISSION INTO PARK. 3) TORQUE DRIVERS SIDE (CONTINUED ON 12739)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

12739 1997-2000 EXDP/NAVI/F-SERIES LD - IDLE VIBRATION (CONTINUED)
(CONTINUED FROM 12738) ENGINE MOUNT BOLT TO 80 NM. TORQUE PASSENGER SIDE ENGINE MOUNT TO FRAME NUTS TO 90 NM. TORQUE TRANSMISSION MOUNT NUTS TO 103 NM. TIGHTEN THE DRIVERS SIDE EXHAUST TO MANIFOLD NUTS EVENLY AND TORQUE TO 40 NM. TIGHTEN THE PASSENGERS SIDE EXHAUST TO MANIFOLD NUTS EVENLY AND TORQUE TO 40 NM. TORQUE EXHAUST PIPE HANGER NUT AND BOLT TO 40 NM. IF CONCERN IS STILL PRESENT, INSTALL NEW ENGINE MOUNTS. USE XL7Z-6038-CA FOR THE LEFT HAND SIDE ENGINE MOUNT, EXCEPT IN THOSE CASES WERE THE OIL FILTER IS LOCATED TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE ENGINE. THEN USE XL7Z-6038-BA (LHS). USE XL7Z-6038-AA (RHS). THE NEUTRALIZATION PROCEDURE DESCRIBED ABOVE MUST BE PERFORMED FIRST AND THEN EVALUATE THE VEHICLE PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE MOUNTS. PERFORM THE NEUTRALIZATION PROCEDURE AGAIN AFTER INSTALLING THE NEW ENGINE MOUNTS.

Good luck. FYI... step 1 did not cure it totally for me, I had to go to step 2 (new motor mounts). Some people are getting it cured by only having step 1 done.

 

i am having a similar idle issue. any resolutions?

 

Well..
I'm clearly not the only one w/ idle issues.
My 4.2 F150 runs great

for 5 seconds
then something retards the engine.

It starts wonderfuly w/ no idle problems..
previously, i had a rough idle, found _TWO_ wires gapping, replaced them all.
3 days and maybe 60 miles later, i get a brand new problem.
You techs out there heres the big question!
What takes 5 seconds to check status?
and why... why me!
Thanks -PCW

 

Hey, I own a 1997 Ford Explorer. I have most of the normal, and all the definate tune-ups, etc.

I went for a tune-up, in late January, no problems with the vehicle at that time

I got the vehicle back, felt fine, until I took it on the highway about one month after. I never brought it on the highway before then (I was off work for that month). So on the highway, everytime, when I was going 60, 80 or 100 KM, and give it light or heavy gas, it really kicks, or lags.

About two weeks ago, which was about two weeks after this problem was noticed, I took it to a different shop. They had no clue, put it on the diagnostic, no dice.

I then took it to the Ford shop, and put it on the diagnostic, and looked at a few things, and came to this answer. It needed a new thermastat (didnt have anything to do with that problem) and they also said the spark plugs in there, which were BOSH, don't like some ford vehicles.

So, the next day, I took it home, put new Autolight plugs in, with a new thermastat. (The Bosh plugs were put in with my first tune-up, that January)

So, I put those in there, took it on the highway, and it was beautiful. No problems, until.... I came to a stop, and the idle was ROUGH. When I was idling, it was bumping, and just rough. It didnt do anything else bad, except for that.

That rough Idling started on this Saturday.

I took it to the shop, they put in a new PCV pipe, at no charge, and looked around again, saw no problems. That was two days after

Now, three days after, the idle is still rough, and the highway lagging is SLIGHTLY starting to act up again. It just does a little kick, not a huge lagg or kick.

The plugs are new, the wires are under a year old, I dont see any problems on them, nor did the shops.


I just don't know why it went from, bad on the highway, to now bad on idle, good on the highway. If it was plugs, or wires, wouldnt it do it all of the time????

I am at crossroad, with what to do. Does anyone have any ideas?? Sorry that the post is soo long, but I thought I would describe it fully.