I just got a 2000 5.4/auto w/ just 500miles on it. The power is good but nothing to write home about and the milage is maybe at 12 mpg. The v-10 does that unloaded!!!! and more power to boot!

I'm seriously considering going w/ an electric fan/ dynomax muffler/ K&N fliter.
Calculated these all add up to the best dollar spent / hp received ratio. Each one frees up horsepower and doesn't really make it. Each one has it's purpose to make the motor more efficent, hence my reasons for going that direction.
A chip may get me close to the gains in HP but at the expense of fuel. The combination of all would be better, but since i'm going w a PSD in just over a year or so I'm trying to lay out as little $$$$ as possible.
I'm also going to go Amsoil front/back so that to should help.

Any thoughts or experiences to share????????

 

My suggestion is to chip it if you do a lot of highway driving. Go into the computer chips forum and find Mike Troyer, he goes by superchips_distributor I think. He is very knowledgeble. Also talk to some people because although you have to use premium the mpg gains are pretty nice with the superchip as I understand it. Also some say that the mileage will jump when you start to get more miles on the truck. Thats my two cents. Good luck and enjoy the truck.

Bones

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2000 F-150, XLT, 4X2, Ext. Cab, S/B, 4.6L, 3.55 L/S, Tow Package, Sony CDX-C7050X Head Unit, 6.5' Sony Three Way Speakers In Each Door. Hopefully An Amp And 12' Sub Soon.

Future Mods: NONE, I'm broke.



[This message has been edited by Bones (edited 05-26-2000).]

 

Mine got about the same milage when I first got it but after about 5000 miles it has increased. It was chipped at 3000 miles and even before then it crept up to 14 mpg during country road driving. With the chip it's getting about 14.5 to 15 mpg with the same driving. The only time it goes down is when it's dry out and I start racing others. I have also heard it takes up to 10k miles before the engine fully breaks in.

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My 2000 F-150

 

Biggest Bang for the buck:Superchip #1,28HP/46ft/lbs torque $235 shipped; FIPK #2, approx. 14HP, $200, K&N only CARB 50-state legal system; cat-back exhaust #3, several great systems for under $300, adds approx. 10-15HP. With 2000 5.4 results yield over 310HP for approx. $750; It makes a big difference believe me. If you do nothing else, remove the 2" air cleaner to fender piece and do the 3" PVC modification for $5 total cost, and replace the muffler only. I love my Dynomax system, there is good info at dynomax.com and size and flow rate info at a-1performance.com . Mileage will improve slightly with age, and I have not got any less mpg from the above improvements. Just my 2 cents worth, opinions will vary at F-150 online believe me. That's what makes it fun; good luck.


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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification,Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back.

 

The electric fan change is enticing, but may be surprising.

You won't see 12 hp inprovement UNLESS your engine is hot (Like when towing in summer up hills) and you remove the fan!

Since the fan uses some 12+ HP under extreme conditions, it does you little-to-no good at normal (non-extreme) engine cooling requirements.

In fact, there is NO WAY that an electric fan is going to provide 12+ HP of cooling on your vehicle.

Let's assume that one HP is worth 650 Watts -- and 13.8 x 650 is 8,970 watts. Well, your alternator is capable of say 120 amps -- and that converts to 1,656 Watts at 13.8 volts.

So your alternator is capable of only 2.5 HP continuously (1,656 / 650 = 2.55 HP).

OK, your 12 HP fan might not be needed, but just how much fan IS needed?

There's no way that your electrical system can sustain 12 HP of electric output for any length of time -- since the alternator is only capable of using 2.5 HP -- so where is the other 9.5 HP to come?

The answer lies in the probability that your engine never NEEDED 12 hp worth of cooling. (?)

There's some interesting 'accounting' going on here by the electric-fan boys.

Perhaps the only real benefit of an electric fan is at slow speeds or idle -- as an augmentation to a more 'normal' engine fan for high-thermal loads.

Would anyone out there who has towed in summer with ONLY an electric fan care to comment?



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Y2K™

XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 AW-Disc, 3.73LS, Skid, 7700# HD Towing, Chrome LT-245, Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, keyless, Toreador Red, called "Nick"

 

THanks for all the info so far.
MAX: explain this PVC mod to me, here or via e-mail. I think I get it, but incase its something else, could you elaborate more por favor.

 

I bought a '97 back in Feb of '97 -- and immediately found this board. At that time, the 5.4 was a pretty new animal -- and by a huge margin, complaints of gas mileage were the topic of the day.

After everyone compared notes we all found that we were all pretty much getting the same mileage -- and also realized that since the first 327/350/351/348/360 (ad nausium), trucks get 15 mpg on the highway.

So...

your truck, unless it's a one-of, will do like all the others -- and start out at 12, and graduate to 14.5 in 6 months -- and top out around 15.

You just can't argue with physics.

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Y2K XLT EC 5.4L 7700# SB 4x4 w/LS 3.73 (repeat buyer)

 

I learned of the PVC mod reading the memos here, if you search them you will see one with pictures also. Mine was slightly different. The one with pictures uses 3" sewer pipe, another one suggests using 3" landscape drain pipe. In doing mine I used the landscape drain pipe. The other is too thick to fit out the fenderwell opening and needs to be ground down some. The landscape drain pipe is thin, and when slightly squeezed fits right through the fenderwell opening. Basically you just remove the air filter clamp, remove the half of the air cleaner closest to the fender( pull up on the housing to release it from 2 rubber grommets and pull extension out of fenderwell ), remove the extension from the half air cleaner and replace it with the 3" black landscaping pipe ( black will look stock and will not be noticed at inspections ). I wrote down the dimensions of the one I designed eventually, and this will save you alot of time. PVC length = 7.25", PVC extends out of housing = 5.5", Total length of half of housing with PVC extending = 15.75" . Other time saving tips: You'll probably have to buy a 8-10' piece of pipe. One end of the pipe has a expanded end for joining 2 pipes, and if you cut the pipe about .25" back from where it begins to expand this can be used to hold it in the half air cleaner. In the half air cleaner use a rounded rasp to remove the tabs that held the original extension. Use a little WD-40 on the pipe, slide the new extension from the inside of the half air cleaner out 5.5" with expanded end inside. Slighty squeeze the new extension and insert it into the fenderwell without the original large grommet. This will replace the 2" extension with a new 3" one, and still let the engine breathe cold air ( something that the AirAid and K&N can't do ). Absolutely the biggest bang for the buck; $5. Also, I forgot to mention earlier; big bang #2 = replace muffler only to Dynomax Ultra-flow stainless steel or welded. Straight-thru design, aggressive sound, highest flow in the industry from world's largest exhaust manufacturer ( they have the guts to list their flow rates at a-1performance.com ). This can be bought and installed for $100. I hope this helps and welcome to F-150 online.

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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification,Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back.

 

I can't speak to actual horsepower gains for electric fans, but mine has gained me somewhere between 1 and 1.5 mpg. I don't believe that towing light loads will be a problem, but if your towing in excess of 2000# trailer, you might want to reconsider. The real advantage of the electric fan is that it is off for at least 95% of the time, and is not robbing horsepower from the engine. Most electric fans, the flexalite 210 in particular draw less than 20 amps when running. At 12V nominal that 240 watts of draw on your electrical system that the alternator has to make up. At 100% efficiency an electrical horspower is 745W, so your fan draws about 3 to 4 tenths of a horsepower from the engine, but only when it is running. Don't know if you've looked at your fan, but it's huge, about 20" in diameter. Horsepower goes up with the square of the RPM, so it's not inconceivable that at high rpm's the fan is sucking 12HP from the engine, and it's turning all the time.

 

But the engine driven fan is variable-speed to match cooling needs. It has a thermal clutch in it. An internal bi-metallic strip ports silicone fluid as the clutch element. The fan just free-wheels at a fraction of the shaft RPM at most times. If you park it in a hot garage, and take it out on a cool morning, you can hear the fan really roar loud, as it is in the near-direct drive mode due to the heat. But then it cools, and starts to spin free, and noise goes away. They are not like direct-drive fans of many years ago.

[This message has been edited by Granpa (edited 05-26-2000).]

 

My Suburban diesel ran hotter than I thought necessary, so I asked a friend at a sister division to make me a new fan clutch to my specifications.

He did, and it lowered my towing temperature from 218 deg to just under 200 -- but when that fan came on, I wasn't sure whether the wheels were pushing the truck, or if the fan was pulling it!

When stopping at a light after a long hot cruise (trailer and truck were 11,000#) the fan would come on full blast since the heat of the stop warmed up the fan clutch.

Well, when I'd start up, the truck would hang in second gear until the fan cooled the radiator enough for the fan to go off, whereas the tranny would then be able to shift since the engine then had enough power to overcome the fan, etc..

Good thing was that I could pull up a mountain and stop at the rest area at the top of the hill, get out and almost put my hand around the upper radiator hose.

I'll trade 1 MPG for a cooler engine compartment -- to me it translates on longer life for belts, hoses, alternators, etc..

Trouble is, OEM want to run engines hotter -- for more efficiency. Look for 36 volt systems (need more voltage for some of the new electronic/electrical gadgetry) in the near future (what's that gonna do for our 2-way radios?) -- and what's that gonna do for our plastic intake manifolds, etc?.



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Y2K™

Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc, 3.73LS, Skid, 7700# HD Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, Toreador Red, called "Nick"

 

Since my main concern is mileage (60 mile round-trip commute), here is my suggestion: Amsoil Performance Improver/fuel system treatment. I get about 19 mpg & when I stop using it, (only did this once) my mileage dropped to below 16 mpg. It'll cost you about $8.00 for a bottle. Before using it, stop at a drug store & get a small measuring bottle, (2oz) then follow the instructions on the PI bottle: First add 6oz to the initial 10 gallons, then 1oz for each 10 gallons thereafter. Because these measuring bottles are all different as to what constitutes an oz, you'll have to experiment to find the exact (1oz) amount. After you find the correct amount, your mileage should increase dramatically. I have all kinds of mods done to my truck, but none have had the effect that Amsoil PI has. Yes, I am an Amsoil dealer, however, I'm not listing my dealer # so as to avoid any conflict of interest. So c'mon guys--GIVE THIS STUFF A TRY__IT WORKS. I'm looking foreward to reports back on this issue. Believe me, the hardest thing to do is try to convince someone that this stuff works, because it's so cheap. 97 Reg Cab Flareside 4.6, 2wd, 5spd, 3.08 XLT dark toreador red/cordovan interior w/capt's chairs & Alpine am/fm/cd player. Mods as follow: Jacobs ignition module, (just installed) K&N FIPK, Steeda pulleys, Airaid Poweraid, Holley plug wires, free flowing cats, Magna-Flow muffler w/dual exhaust, Dyna-Glass tonneau & Center-Lines w/275/60/R17 Goodyear Eagle GTII tires.

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