No pics today. Got my valve cover gasket issue resolved, Got stuff buttoned up to the point of trying to start. I did not install exhaust manifolds, or put coolant in, just in case I have to get back into things. But I did put oil in and add some power steering fluid. The belt I got, wow, it was tight.

So yeah. Got the battery in, and connected. Turned the key a couple times to prime the fuel pump. Then came the time to try it. CLICK. Solenoid kicked, and the starter solenoid didn't. Grrrr. Time tested method of hitting the starter with a hammer was not easy. And, third whack, I broke the mounting ears off... Rain was coming, the store had a starter. I only got as far as getting the old starter out. Then the rain hit, with wind and a 15 degree temp drop. Done for the day...

Tomorrow should be sunny. But will be 10 degrees cooler. And humid. This is weird for late May in Utah. Possible snow tonight for higher elevations...

I lied, there are pictures...



The belt claims 99 5/8"... To me, it needs another 3/8"... But I finally got it on.

 

should make for an easy removal of the starter bolts after the starter is broken off and out of the way


If you ever have a really tight belt like that, loosen the tensioner mounting bolt(s), there's usually enough "tolerance" to be able to "clock" the tensioner slightly one way or the other to make life easier

 

Did you turn the engine a couple of revolutions by hand to make sure it turns smoothly with no valves hitting the pistons before hitting the starter?

 

Yep. Bolts came out easy!

I got the belt on, but that is probably the tightest belt I've ever put on. A vehicle... I used to have a 54" waist, belts were not any fun. Down to a 38" again. Now I have a couple too big belts!

Took yesterday away from the truck. Needed the break. Back at it today... Need to go get a different heater hose. I didn't know there were to sizes for the intake manifold to firewall hoses. Also. Need to replace all the hardware for the exhaust manifolds to downpipe. Should have bought sooner.

 

Starter went in easy. I hadn't installed the starter to battery harness properly, so took some time to get it right. And then tried to start it. It cranked, but didn't fire. Grrrr. No fuel pressure. So changed the fuel filter, hoping it was clogged. Nope.

Double checked that inertia switch connection, and for voltage. Checked fuel pump fuse and relay. That left... Fuel pump. I tried whacking the tank with a rubber mallet... To no avail..

Watched some videos, and ran into a snag...

These connectors are not the same as the videos, or under the hood, or even the filter! Kicked my butt they did...


Once I figured that the clips didn't need tools, they popped right off. But it was an ordeal.


I didn't drop the tank all the way out from under the truck. Front is still high on jack stands, so I was able to get my formerly fat self under there to work, and enough to angle the old pump out.


I kept the rear supported and it all went back with no issues. I primed the pump without the filter connected, and that was successful. So, reconnected the filter, primed the system a few times and tried to start. It cranked a few times, but, started. And I'm happy. Open exhaust made for a little disturbance of the peace, but nobody called me in...

Tomorrow I get the last heater hose I need. So I can get the cooling system up and running. Taking a gamble on the radiator, my budget took a huge hit this weekend, with the starter and fuel pump. Still need to get the exhaust manifolds in, so I can quiet the thing down.

Looks like I may be going back to work this week, split shifts with the rest of my crew. I'll see how that works out. But I hope to drive the truck around the neighborhood this weekend...

 

Didn't mean to ignore you. Yes, I rotated quite a few turns of the crank, but didn't want to go further than that with no oil pressure. When it went smoothly around when I was putting the torque converter nuts in, I felt pretty sure I finally got it right.

 

Today I got it quiet again. Exhaust manifolds, new studs, got everything buttoned up just short of adding coolant. Family obligations kept me from doing that. So that is first on the list tomorrow. I will drive it around the neighborhood after that, then let it cool and check everything out...

But this evening was spent with family, haven't seen my grandkids as much since this Covid lockdown. So that was a good battery recharge I needed personally...

 

Got the coolant filled. Got it out and on the street. Idles rough. Had an EGR code on my OBD2 bluetooth scanner and the Torque app. Turned out I hadn't plugged in that connector. Code went away. It has a rough idle, but isn't throwing a code. Had a friend use a Snap On scanner. Not showing any reason for the roughness.

Really hoping it improves with time and relearning. Or maybe bad gas. I put in a bottle of Seafoam fuel system cleaner when I put 10 gallons in the tank.

Got it insured, registered again. So it is legal. It does need tires, they are dry rotted after over 6 years sitting. Eight years according to DMV... Crap. Too long.

 

How are the plugs, cops, and injectors?

Seafoam doesn't do squat for fuel injected engines except damage the cats. Techron is the best cleaner to use. Change the fuel filter.

 

I put a new filter in when I changed the pump. Techron will be added when I add fuel again. Frankly, I'll add Techron to every tank for a few tanks.

I changed the offending COP this morning with another I had, used, but still the same codes. I might change the plug (I did check to see if it was still tight, and yes, they are all new and gapped). But it does seem to feel a bit less rough, so maybe intermittent. I'm wondering if an injector can trigger that 306 and 316 codes?

 

You need to check the #6 plug.

What brand are the plugs, and how many miles are on them?

I'd swap the #6 cop and injector with a different cylinder.

 

New Motorcraft plugs, less than 50 miles. First start of the truck in 7+ years with a refreshed F350 5.4. I heard it run before I bought it. 6 years ago. New COPs, granted they were cheap set off Amazon, but I have 8 old ones to swap around. I had serviced the injectors before reusing them, triggered them to open and sprayed cleaner through, changed the O rings and filters.

 

I would highly suspect the cheapie cops. Use Motorcraft, Denso, or Delphi.

 

That's why I tried two of the original COPs.

Borrowed an injector noid light set, and compression tester. Letting the truck cool down.

Scanner wouldn't accept inputs to shut off individual injectors or COPs. But it did suggest a post repair misfire test reset procedure. Attempted twice, to no avail.

 

Noid light set showed injector firing. But...


I dare say, this is the culprit. This is with the engine running.

One step forward, 2 back...