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The factory harness that runs to the back should have connectors for both standard 4 pin and standard 7 pin sockets. I don't know what you exactly mean by "modules". There should also be a socket under the dash for an aftermarket brake controller. Adapters are available to plug popular models of aftermarket controllers directly into the factory socket. There are relays and fuses involved:
If you are referring to the later models with factory brake controllers, I don't believe they will work, they are designed to integrate with the vehicle's electronics for sway and stability control.
The factory harness that runs to the back should have connectors for both standard 4 pin and standard 7 pin sockets. I don't know what you exactly mean by "modules". There should also be a socket under the dash for an aftermarket brake controller. Adapters are available to plug popular models of aftermarket controllers directly into the factory socket. There are relays and fuses involved:
If you are referring to the later models with factory brake controllers, I don't believe they will work, they are designed to integrate with the vehicle's electronics for sway and stability control.
I have the factory harness, relays and pigtail for an aftermarket trailer brake controller. It was just a thought with respect to the more modern trucks. But yes, factory hitch, 4 and 7 pin trailer connectors. I've used both, and more than once wished for brakes better than Uhaul surge brakes.
I had the TPS from the F350. Swapped it over. And...
It's better. But not perfect, under load, it still cuts out, but now its at 2800 to 3000 when it cuts out, and with a much heavier foot. So, better, possibly on tbe right track.
My OBD2 adapter gets here tomorrow, already joined and approved on Forscan. Will register the adapter as soon as I get it.
I am very surprised that when the engine cuts out, it doesn't set any codes. Really bugs me...
And while thinking about my truck issues, I did the key trick on my Jeep to read the basic codes. Always happy when it flashes 55, or, end of test. No codes. Not bad for a no cat 240,000 mile beat up old Jeep.
Fuel pressure. Sitting and revving to 4500 in the driveway, new TPS.
Ok. I believe e this isn't bad for a N/A application.
And no cutting out when flooring it. So, I go for a drive. Wow. I forgot how well this thing can scoot! Floored, up to 70 MPH (sketchy on these old tires). Heavy foot. On and off throttle. Man! I fixed it! Wooooooo!
Pulled away from a stop light.. floored it. 3000 it starts cutting out again. WTF? Stop at my friend's house, returned his compression test set. Same at his house, cutting out. Left his house, drove easy. Stopped at 7/11 for some unsweetened iced tea (you Southern folk would hate me for that).
Drove most of the way home nice and easy. But went a few blocks out of my way, floored it and it was perfect. Revved great, no cutout, 60 mph in short order...
Now I'm confused. Am I having an open loop/ closed loop issue? What changes?
And, I have a bit of a coolant leak. Can't find it for certain. But one bolt on the thermostat housing is wet again. Leaning on the hose clamp not being tight enough, factory type clamp. I'll put a real screw down clamp on the hose there.
When the pressure is up, it runs great. But as the pressure drops, it cuts out. Friend loaned me a better fuel pressure gauge with a longer hose than mine.
Now, I have to ask first. Would a bad pressure regulator cause this same problem? If so, what is a good replacement?
I will be returning this pump to O'Reilly's. Unsure if I want a same replacement or something else, from somewhere else.
Are you sure you don't have a plugged fuel filter?
This is how the FPR works - you have a return system. With no vacuum, the return is closed off, no fuel returns to the tank. Vacuum variably opens the return. I would think that with the vacuum disconnected and it still loses pressure, the FPR is good. You have a partial blockage or a sick fuel pump. I suppose it's possible that the FPR is constantly open? If there was fuel in its vacuum line when you disconnected it, the diaphragm is blown.
Are you sure you don't have a plugged fuel filter?
This is how the FPR works - you have a return system. With no vacuum, the return is closed off, no fuel returns to the tank. Vacuum variably opens the return. I would think that with the vacuum disconnected and it still loses pressure, the FPR is good. You have a partial blockage or a sick fuel pump. I suppose it's possible that the FPR is constantly open? If there was fuel in its vacuum line when you disconnected it, the diaphragm is blown.
No fuel in the vacuum line. If there were, I'd imagine the truck would run considerably different.
The filter and pump were new two weeks ago. I guess I could change the filter again first. I am leaning towards the pump being weak.
Okay - do this. With the vacuum line connected to the FPR, start it and let it idle. Monitor the fuel pressure. Then disconnect the vacuum from the FPR, the pressure should rise by at least 5 psi. If it doesn't, replace the FPR.
06-08-2020, 02:01 PM
