I'm not sure what to say anymore. Haven't come across this before lol.

Not one test was done correctly. Blowing in the valve with the engine off ? Why?

You volt readings ? That's Impossible.

Cleaning the Throttle body and Elbow - Has that been done correctly? I don't know , - now.

The valve most likley blown now, fro the sounds of it. Idunno, these are simple tests and explained all over this forum. Their short and quick.

 

That was after he said it was fixed. I then asked him to check to see if the valve might be leaking air. I thought maybe some chemicals got in the valve. I honestly thought he did the test. I don't know. He said the light was out after he cleaned the throttle body. (Must have been due to resetting)
Was working, quit working. It was one simple statement. I suggested checking before taking it apart again.



It's a short life, I'm not going to stress over it.

 

- Right! - No sense stressing over it lol. I agree. The statement you quoted jackhammer saying above is only half correct.

This thread follows suit. - Only half gets done, so the same info gets repeated again and again. That's why I suggested early on for him to type in "suck test" in the search bar, - that was another attempt to get her done.

If it's truly done, that's great. If he didn't understand what exactly was entailed, then this should have been the next question.

Like the when reading volts. What you do is start at the highest number on the meter/ - dial it it down one or two notches until the decimal point is correct. - That's what I do anyway. His readings posted- don't make sense at all. I explained that one pretty easily as well , - You posted the link for him right.

I guess I figure if he doesn't have a question about something, it's understood..?


I wanna help, but not sure how lol.

 

Lets get the guy going.

So where does this stand now Jackhammer?

 

jb, I never said I "BLEW" into the egr valve. I did as you said "get a 2-3' piece of house, remove the green vac line from the egr valve, attach it there and with the engine running, suck on the hose like a milkshake. If the ports are even partly open the engine will act like it wants to stall." I did that. I did the the test that Tumba said with the engine off, suck on it to see if I heard valve movement or hissing. I tested my voltmeter and found it sucked. My 6 year old meter finally was on it's way out. Got a new one. The wife is gone with the truck, so I'm sitting here waiting on her again so I can finish this mess. (having one vehicle sux )

And yes jb, I've come to the conclusion that I did not clean correctly the first time. I was posting all those results in the last few posts on page 6, because you asked for them sir. Thanks for all your help.

Tumba;
I stand ready to pull the tb and clean the ports and elbow again... correctly/completely this time. I will blow some compressed air thru the ports after cleaning to make sure they are clean.

Thanks to everyone, jbrew, Matt, Tumba and everyone who has given their time to me. It is greatly appreciated.

 

Where did I say blow?

 

Tumba; You didn't say blow. Jbrew did. See looky here:


jbrew
I'm not sure what to say anymore. Haven't come across this before lol.

Not one test was done correctly. Blowing in the valve with the engine off ? Why?

You volt readings ? That's Impossible.

Cleaning the Throttle body and Elbow - Has that been done correctly? I don't know , - now.

The valve most likley blown now, fro the sounds of it. Idunno, these are simple tests and explained all over this forum. Their short and quick.

 

OK, I just wanted to fix it, wherever I did

 

NP sir...

 

That's good BUT, -The "suck test" is NOT soley for checking the ports. That's why I tried get you to look it up. Voltage ? Again , again , repeat repeat.

You can't skip stuff, it gets forgotten.

 

Understand jb... thanks again for the direction. Dot all the I's and cross all the T's. Everything works together and impacts performance on the others if not each part being done correctly.

 

Right! A good portion of the time it's the No dollar/ Low dollar stuff causing the problems. Hell, I've seen the a HUGE difference in performance and economy after cleaning a MAF sensor - that was NEVER cleaned btw. That was the brothers truck lol - The Pinhead had to argued that one as well - Claimed that sensor shouldn't be cleaned touched or thought about , - that's why the air filter is in front of it , -keeps it clean.


Anyway, - is the diaphragm okay then ? - No air should be heard when bench testing with a vac tool. It's pretty delicate, so you need a vac tool bench testing or testing on the vehicle KOEO.

You pump it up tp 5 hg and she should hold forever or until purged.

 

Blow what? - I must have said that . Not sure how I used the word ? I'll find it and see.... . .


I think that was in reference to Tumba's post about listening for a diaphragm leak. - Most the time when those blow, - air bypasses everything and escapes out the top. Theoretically,-that should be a PO402 fault = Poppet valve failure (The EGR valve itself). Unfortunately with other problems that may exist in an aged and malfunctioning system, the computer can't pinpoint the actual sensor @ fault. But they do give yuh a nice head start.

Tumba's right tho, DON'T touch that EGR valve with ANY chemicals. Don't blow ANY compressed air into it - None!, -Take it off the body if you have to. Protect the diaphragm while cleaning. I blew one that way, not paying attention


______________________


I thought you posted some good pics somewhere? Wasn't that you? - If so , it looked pretty good from what I saw. You cleaned the right ports.

 

JB, on the compressed air thing, I was talking about blowing compressed air thru the egr channel to the egr ports in the elbow to make sure the ports were cleaned out as would be evident by passing the air thru them from where the egr valve bolts on, to the ports, but not thru the valve. When i take off parts from the tb, they go in a box away from the engine to prevent accidental contamination from anything.

Also let me explain something.... when I came into this forum, I had already bought a new egr valve, egr solenoid and aftermarket dpfe. The dpfe has since been replaced with OEM dpfe as instructed by you and others. So, alot of the tests you had me do were after the fact of parts replacement. That's why the tests were not done at the beginning, which you commented on, that I didn't do/shoulda done, before replacing parts until I knew exactly where to go and what to do. I learned an expensive lesson.

Just thought I would let you know why I have done what I have and why it was in a half *** manner ('scuuze the language--- sorry).
But, being armed with all the info that everyone has given me, I will prevail.

Thank you again

 

I was the one who posted the pictures. You will know what the EGR ports look like when you take the throttle body off. I recommend taking the IAC and EGR off so you dont have to worry about carb cleaner or whetever you use getting in them. This is what you are looking for:



You want them to look like this:


If they look like the second picture and your EGR works properly the engine will bog down at idle if you put any kind of vacuum on the EGR valve.

You would think that the almighty "Jbrew" would have gotten you a picture of this already. Guess not... either way this should fix the problem. Good luck!