No problem,

After creating your own gallery on this site/ save a pic to your D-top/ then "upload" to your new gallery.

That's one way and how I just did that.

 

[QUOTE=jbrew;3837427]Here yuh go jack -

jb; well my happiness was short lived. The check engine light is back on with the 401 code. I did replace the AutoZone DPFE with OEM as you had stated and got the CEL this afternoon.

I have not done the suck test yet, but will post the results. Bummer....

 

[QUOTE=jackhammer144;3837563]That is a bummer, yea, suck test it, -that hasn't been done yet, not sure why? I usually recommend that first . Let us know what happens.

 

[QUOTE=jackhammer144;3837563]You are at the same point now, when I (After a long period of time) figured out with jbrew's help, that the wrong DPFE was on my truck. The rubber lines from the EGR pipe were on the wrong side of the DPFE, and would only reach the way I had them connected. It put the cel out for a while, but then it came back on. The rubber tubes that are cut for the plastic DPFE are cut to length for it. If they sold you a metal DPFE, the tube for the intake side of the EGR pipe will not reach the proper connector on the DPFE, so They end up hooked up wrong. It works for a while, but then, The new one fails also.

jbrew, post the Scorpio diagram so he can check out where he has the IMS and EMS tubes going. If it is the same problem, it will save him allot of headache. This is when I learned my truck had the wrong sensor on it, when I bought it. The first Ford parts guy I dealt with tried to sell me a plastic sensor, I told him a metal one came off of it, so he got me the metal one, and it worked for a while, hooked up backward.

Also the vref appears to have for voltage difference between the two different applications, on mine it was over .5 volts

 

[QUOTE=Tumba;3838371]Tumba;
I did get the plastic DPFE from the dealer. That's what was on the truck before I got the cel. My tubes are 2 different sizes as are the connectors on the DPFE, so it's almost idiot proof (lucky for me ). I will take a pic of how and where my DPFE is and connected. I still have not done the suck test yet as the wife has the truck, but I will get to it today and post the results. I really appreciate everyone's help.

 

[QUOTE=jackhammer144;3838566]If the ports are open in the throttle body, the suck test will almost stall the engine. If it doesn't stall, the EGR valve diaphragm has a hole in it. Is there a possibility, that you got some of the chemicals on the EGR'S diaphragm?

 

QUOTE=Tumba lol :Exactly, that will test the diaphragm. I'll look for a few pics or diagrams Tumba. Multi-tasking lol.

 

What are you laughing at? This same problem almost had me drive one off a cliff. One thing I have really learned, is that nothing is foolproof
Peckerhead

 

PO401 = Take self portrait while you still have hair.

I wish I knew what you were missing on yours - ? Who know's you may have the DPFE hose plugged into the EGR valve



Here's a diag. -



Here's that vid I made -

http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393...07882591006386

 

See that diagram is the the with the metal DPFE. The IMS tube will only reach the front side of the DPFE. On the plastic ones, both connectors ore on the same side, and the hoses will still fit only one way, the opposite of what they fit on the metal one. That is what I meant by foolproof. While mine was still under warranty, a Ford tech decided to change mine to a metal DPFE. and in so hooked it up the only way the lines would fit, which was backward. Man I cleaned everything, vacuum checked everything under the hood including the differential pressure between my ears. Only a month ago I found the true problem. It think it was in fullyfords thread when you made the demo of the voltage difference caused me to notice what was going on with mine.
Luckily we don't have emission inspections here, or one lousy tech at the dealership would have cost me my favorite truck.

 

there is one other option you can do..but it might not be the most cost effective...get a tune with the egr delete done..

 

You found the problem ??? ??? Honest ?

I didn't do that in fullyfords thread , I don't think? did I ? Thought we just hosed the barn wall down in that thread ? You might be right idunno.. I only posted the vid a couple times. Getting ready to grind mine down to bare rust and hunt for metal, -I hate body work ....

_______________________

No inspections here either

________________________

You use to be able to disconnect the EGR at a certain point and delete yourself. The computer turns off the EGR during wide open throttle, -totally. If you made sure the sensors give CLOSED signals to the computer , -then disconnect, it worked. But yea, fuel ratios and timing could be miscalculated by the computer if done incorrectly. They give closed sigs @ idle, but for some reason, you couldn't disconnect @ idle, not exactly sure what goes on there. Yea, most just get it tuned out now.

 

Jbrew=Yes, it works right now

Before I just capped it off and stared at the light. It kept telling me , that it beat me. But I kept telling it, it's not over yet..

So Jackhammer- what does your's have to say?

 

<sigh> Ok jb and tumba... just did the suck test on a new egr valve and nothing changed. I guess the darn ports are still clogged. Here's my new oem dpfe... don't laugh... that's the way it was installed when we bought the truck in 2004 (used).

 

The ports are clogged? If you open the last week. I don't think they are clogged now.
Are you sure the diaphragm in the valve is moving.
Kill the engine and do the suck test and listen. Is the a hissing noise, or do you here the valve moving?