I think you my be right.

Wait a minute, sorry, I didn't explain it right. I didn't mention,the first time this happened I turned the key off and on 3 times and it started. BUT,I lost my remote settings. I had to reprogram the remote - uknow, had re-learn rpms @ idle.

What's strange is, for the last 10 years, once a great while I would loose remote settings for no good reason. I had know idea how to reprogram at first, it wasn't in the manual. Ended up writing Ford about it way back when and they sent me the info. I went 2 years or so without it working. It took forever to get the procedure. It just requires - foot on brake/key on/key off three times/ parking lights begin to blink/it's in learn mode/ start/release brake/ let idle down /hit brake again to set rpms.

Guess I could have spared you that storie lol.

The reason I think your right about the circuit, the truck didn't have a battery in it for 3 months recently. When I finally installed one, fired it up using the remote system. Yea , it didn't forget the settings after all that time.

So somethings shorting or surging - Like a relay acting up within the circuit.

Also, what's that deal under the hood - A push pin that closes when the hood is shut? It had one wire going to it that broke long ago. Never did get around to figuring out what that was or fixing it. That most likely has something to do with the remote system. I've been without it for a long time.

Guess I have some checking to do.

 

Btw - JMC, I finally took the rear springs apart and added new plastic separators. 8 per side. No more squeaks. I've been wanting to do this since you mentioned it - over a year ago, maybe longer than that? Idunno, I just remember you mentioned it at some point in time lol.

 

Check the starter interrupt relay. It is in the RPO relay block under the oval thing on the instrumet panel. It is normally closed till your alarm triggers and the relay is energized and it opens the circuit. Page 20-2 in the EVTM manual. Look at 151-10 A-8 for the location of the RPO relay block.

EDIT Just remove the relay and jumper the contacts so it stays on all the time regardless of the Anti theft situation.

 

Ah, alright. I don't think I have that manual. No hard copies, just Service DVD's. I bet I can find it tho, their out in the shop right now.

What's this - "Technical Article Contributer" all about ? That's new. Cool.

 

3" blocks & 10" U-bolts added to level the truck out -



That pic ^^^^^ sucked ~ Heres a better one -



Spacers/spring liners -

 

Now I want some yellow shocks.
I just noticed that "Technical Article Contributor" today. I think it is for the swap notes in my sig?

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

humm no filter with a hood scoop....dont think that'll work. it only happens when the truck is fully warm. if i put the IAC muffler back on think the noise will go away? and if i clean the IAC think it will help? how come when i goose the gas it goes away?

Thanks again Jbrew some Sexy looking shocks! how much they cost? i need some new shocks somthing about putting 5,000lbs in the bed of my truck 3-4 times......hummmm

 

Without the filter was just to see if the noise went away.

I would run the muffler, it doesn't effect anything but the noise.

5000 lbs dead weight ? I don't think so lol. I can pull 5000 fairly easy, but dead weight in the bed ?

Those are Bilsteins, I purchase a couple years ago. Great shocks, best paint job that I've seen on shocks, -Paint usually chips and fades pretty quick on shocks. Not these, they still rinse off nice.

They were $250 a set.

 

Yes 5,000lbs of dead weght my bump stops were on the frame raile and cruched i had 0 shock traval for this ride. bottom of Page 3 is the pallet of bricks that weghted 5,000 lbs and then page 4 i have a Brigdeport mill in there that weghts in at 4,550lbs *We took one to a scrap yard so we know the weght"

https://www.f150online.com/forums/wo...ve-been-3.html

Yeah imma throw the muffler on today and see if it goes away. i was gonna ask you. you know the PCV on the passenger side that goes behide the TB? can i do like what i did on the driver side? i took the PCV that goes into the intake and layed it on my frame rail and oh my has the TB stayed nice and shiney very long. i was wonder if i do this on the PCV on the passenger side and get a vaccum plug for the back of the TB if that would be ok?

Also do you have a link for the site with those shocks? i need some new ones in the rear

 

Hey Jbrew i just put the IAC muffler back on yeah i know one hose is way to long imma look on my stock air box n see if i got a shorter one. took the filter off after i put the box on put my ear to the MAF reved it and i could hear the IAC open when the RPM's were coming down after the rev. Also i sprayed TB cleaner were all the hoses come togther and the idle never changed so theres no leaks. i have yet to drive it to see if it changed anything.... How can a lil plastic box make that loud noise go away? Anyways heres a pic

 

Yea , it did it again. - I lost my remote settings, so I went to re-program that AGAIN. I couldn't turn the key at first/ it hung up. I had to turn the key and crank the wheel at the same time to get it free. Turn the key/ I hear the fuel pump (as always)/ then I get relay type click + a thump ? Thump sounds like it's under the middle of the dash - behind the stereo or something? I did this 4 times - 5th time it started.

Somethings shorting for sure when the switch is in the start position. - That's why I'm loosing my remote settings I figure. Well I'll pull the ignition and give it a look see. I wanted to check that and the plug anyway.

I do have the EVTM out in the shop, I'll work my way thru the harness I guess.