This TSB does not apply to your 1997. However, what DOES apply is this:

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm

FAQ's #51 and #52.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the difference. My plug and wire replacement went great. Not a bad job at all with the correct extensions and a universal.

This problem (blown plugs) makes me rethink advice to not use anti-sieze on plug threads... About thirty years ago I blew a plug out of my Shovel Head Harley while traveling at 70 mph. Once home I talked to the senior machinist at the laboratory I worked at (particle accelerators use lots of magnetically transparent aluminum) what my options were and he replied "Keen Serts".

Keen Serts are a solid steel, threaded insert with sharp stakes that imbed themselves into the parent aluminum. You also use a high temperature Loc Tite compound on them. They use a special tap like a Heli Coil tap (but specialized to the Keen Sert) and I kinda chuckled when I read the statment by the guy that travels around doing the repairs, in regards to the "specialized" vacuum equipment that they use to keep machined debris out of the engine..... I used a shop-vac, duct tape, the Keen Sert tap and a toilet paper cardboard tube to collect debris while tapping the hole. Just had to make sure that the intake valve was open.

Thanks for the blown plug info. I've been using anti-sieze on plugs in aluminum motorcycle heads for the last 30 years and when torqued correctly, have had no problems.

 

This seems to be the going thread for plug changes. Had a friend tell me today that a mechanic he knows has successfully changed 3 sets of plugs on F150's without breaking the first one. His "trick" seems to be that he puts small amounts of water into the intake to more or less "steam clean" the carbon build up. Has anybody heard of this??? Sounded a little off the wall and out in left field to me.

 

Not sure if I read it in this long thread or somewhere else, but I believe someone had mentioned a similar process using throttle body cleaner and or injector cleaner to clean and remove also.

 

One member that changes a lot of them uses Techron. He pours a little in the plug hole just like carb cleaner.

 

Hey fellas, i just bought an 06 F-150 with 31,--- original miles on it. Should i be proactive and change the plugs soon to avoid a breakage later down the road? I already plan to get the Lilse spark plug socket and removal tool, as im sure ill run into these trucks more frequently down the road.

How well does the Lilse removal tool work? What plugs should i use if i do this? Last set of plugs i did on a mod motor was on a 2005 E-450 bus with the V-10 and it was about 2 years ago. I read a few different part numbers thrown around here and is the torque 28 ft-lbs, no anti-sieze on the threads just the shield?

 

I have 77,000+ and am planning my plug change. Techron in last fill up and will do the next 2 same way. Then using the impact wrench method described here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIQevez-DG0

 

When I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) I used Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did following the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.
A technique that is also good to use, prior to removal, loosen the plugs by 1/8 of a turn....fire the engine up for 1 minute max- this allows the combustion flame to reach up farther and burn off/loosen any remaining carbon.
FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum.

 

Selling my Lisle spark plug removal tool on ebay, if anyone is interested:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180875052473

SOLD!!! Thanks

 

Wonder if the long reach plugs in the new 2012 Ford motors will come out easy?

 

I think they learned their lesson.

 

I have a 1998 F150 XLT extended cab with 4.6L V8. It has 203k miles on it. I am getting lean bank one and two. I am also getting a misfire on cylinder 4. I bought a spark checker and I have spark thru the coil and wire. So I figured maybe the plug was bad (I'm second owner) Got my spark plug socket, 2 inch extender, flex elbow adapter, dropped it down in there and all I get is spin. The plug won't come out. I checked cylinder one and I can get it out with a problem. I used a mirror and light and can't see that it's broken (it's not leaning). I don't think there is enough room to get in there with needle nose (special tool?). Any ideas?

 

Most likely you have dirt or rocks around the plug. You need to blow it out with compressed air or take a thin flad blade and dig around the plug. Happens quite often.

 

Yes see this:

Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines

and also use a shop vac to suck out any debre before pulling plugs.

 

I blew the hole out. Rechecked with mirror. I can hear the socket going over the plug and i can move it up just a little. I'm sure the plug is broken. I'll look into getting that tool. Number 4 is hard to get to.