The wire from the gauge is '+', so that's all that you connect to the little screw on the top of the sensor. '-' would touch the threads of the sendor... Is that what you tried and it pegs out?

I used a small hose clamp to afix the ground wire to the "T" itself (not phycially touching the sendor). I could have used a large "O" connector under the base of the sendor, but I didn't have one large enough on hand, and I was too lazy to go out and get one! Anyway, it's been working for over 5 years and no problems...

Mitch

 

MM kay so sensor to sensor + to power and - to brass T (sensor threads)? My gauge has 3 terminals, S, + and -

 

Well, lets start from the beginning...... There are actually 3 wires for an electric gauge setup. You provide a hot 12v source from the fuse panel and connect to the 12v screw on the gauge. There is also a ground screw on the gauge. Simply run a wire to a ground under the dash (metal area). The third screw on the gauge goes to the sensor.

Now, the sensor needs to be grounded. If you put the sensor into a hole that's already grounded, that's all you need to do. But, if you isolate the sensor from ground (spliced into rubber hoses for example) you have to run a separate ground wire from the "T" to a convenient spot under the hood. Don't touch it to the top of the sensor, or it'll 'peg out'. (short out in other words)

Oh yeah, on the 12v that you use to the gauge, you want to make sure it's fused and not 'hot' after you switch off the ignition, or you'll have a dead battery!

Mitch

 

Where do you suggest I tap for the switched on hot wire? I was going to use a switch to turn the gauge on/off from the battery. I tried the fuel pump fuse but it won't shut off afterthe truck is off, just stays lit up and reading.

 

Ok guys i finally got it figured out, I had to ground the backlight, the gauge was working but i was looking at the light, not the needle movement, so i thought my ground was bad when it wasn't, just wrapped a wire around the light bulb housing and ran it to the ground terminal, fixed, put it on a manual switch in the cab, done deal.

Next question, I thought my T-stat was 195F one, temp is pretty consistent at 180F and hovers above once in a while a little bit. This means my t-stat is 180F then am I correct?

 

Sorry guys, once the kinks got worked out it does turn out that it must be a 195F as it goes above 180 but not to 210F and hovers around, then bounces down.

Next question what would be an appropriate on temp for my electric fans to come on when I install them?