Well , I hope the TB cleaning does it - I always make sure on an IAC , the mechanism isn't hanging, they can, even a new ones . a little pair of needle nose can get in there..

Something to check

 

doing a tb cleaning, do i need 2 gaskets or just one new one?

 

To do it right you need 3.the TB gasket and the gasket on the elbow that goes to the intake.You should also get a new EGR valve gasket.I think i have the ford part #s if you need them.You may be able to get away with your old one for the lower cause its an o-ring style.If not you can just pull it apart again

 

Theres two yup - Personally , I prefer not to use gaskets - don't trust them there. I use RTV PTex , High Heat BLACK -- Black cures the quickest and has never failed to seal.

It's up to you..

 

RTV jbrew?That works good also
Masonball,i honestly think you could get away with buying no gaskets and using your old ones!!!I took mine apart with basically the same miles and they looked perfect.I actually saved them.

 

How many vacuum lines are there in my truck? What if I just replace them one by one? Maybe that will isolate and fix my idle. Also I noticed my idle is only rough when my engine is warm. When it's cold I have no problem. If I feel the rough shaking idle and I hit the gas (this is while in park), the rpm's rev to 2 or 2.5 thousand and then go back to 650 (idle) and are smooth as silk. Does this tell you guys anything, or do I just need to clean and replace the stuff we have been talking about?

 

ok I know we're off the original topic of this thread, but since I had such awesome replies, I thought I'd continue with a question. I removed my superchips 1715, filled the gas tank with 87, disconnected my battery for about 30 minutes, started it up and let it idle in park for 5 minutes, then without turning it off let it idle in drive with my foot on the brake for about 5 minutes. I drove about 40 miles and my idle is almost perfect! What's up? You guys think this will last, or did I just get lucky? I tried some WOT and normal acceleration as well, and nothing seemed to affect my idle when I came to each stop. I'm happy right now, but..... will it last?

 

You could always try one of those 'wonder sockets' with the sprung retractable pins, I have one I haven't used yet, cost around $17 and is the size of a larger spark plug socket, it's supposed to slip tight over rounded nuts or bolts, and grip them enough to get them off to replace...

Or get an ez-out, which is a left-threaded tapered machine-tap type thing (you use a thread-cutting tap handle on it) drill a suitable hole in the centre of the bolt head, and gently undo it with the ez-out

Or you could use a nut splitter, you'd have to be careful but if the bolt's not too tight, once the nut splitter had some purchase, you could carefully use it like a wrench to undo it, if there's room.

Maybe you should buy a torque wrench, you must've done it up pretty tight to round the bolt, or was that socket just that bad a fit?

 

Hey JBrew, by RTV, you mean silicone? I'm always nervous to use it in place of a gasket 'cause I'm afraid I'll crack the components without the cushioning of the gasket, but I will put silicone either side of a gasket, and that always seems to work well...

 

Umm...thanks for your help, but if you read a little earlier in the thread, I've already fixed the IAC problem. Thanks anyway, though. Right now I'm trying to figure out the answer to the question I asked 3 posts earlier than this one.

 

Well with the gaskets, I had leaks in between the bolts - I tested with propane. Letting a little propane fly around any gasket joint will let you know if it's leaking by a fluctuating idle as the propane is sucked in..

Chucking the gaskets and using the RTV silicon (BLACK) solved that problem and smoothed my idle up quite a bit..

Never have I broke anything - just torque to spec..

 

masonball - Your idle prob has been fixed by adjusting your tuner correct? I don't use a tunner so I can't troubleshoot that problem. I reprogammed my trans with hardware I installed inside of it . Im not getting the tuner until I get a good set of PI heads . Someone in the "SUPERCHIPS" forum should be able to help with your problem if it'd tuner related..I just busted both rear shocks last night jumping the tracks - bent my brake lines to hell and creased my diff cover - lucky nothin leakes , but the shocks are history... Ordered some Bilsteins , but there 6 days out - couldn't pass up $250 for all four shipped!!! I hate waiting tho..

Good Luck.

 

Thats weird!!So you returned your truck back to stock and now it runs fine?Have you tried putting the tuner back in to see if it idles like chit again?Did your truck idle fine before you installed the tuner?

 

lol you have now graduated to the senior ranks lol. dont worry i was bothering people on here for days on how diagnose my broken horn lol. electrical is not my strongpoint.

 

Right, I returned it to stock and it runs waaaaayyy better! Yes, it had the idle problem before I tuned it. I don't know whats up here, but at least it's working right - at least for now. No I didn't put the tuner back in to see if it does it cause I don't want it to ever again!!!