5 Speed 4.2 Problems
BTW Kilroy,
I do believe that 46Hutch was talking about adding a pump and cooler to the tranny.
Take it easy there chief.
I do believe that 46Hutch was talking about adding a pump and cooler to the tranny.
Take it easy there chief.
I have the same problem with the 1-2 shift. I drive fast and want a fast speed shift. I don't want to hear about double clutching or shifting to 2 before i downshift into first. I want my trans to work like it is supposed to! I am also experienceing some problems recently with my trans grinding when it shifts into reverse. No I'm not rolling forward when this happens. I know how to drive a manual trans. I drove an isuzu truck with a 5-speed for a year, and its shifted like butter. Why can't my F150 trans shift like that? Now I'm checking out installation problems on installing a mustang cobra trans into my truck. If I can find a wrecked cobra, maybe I'll just take all of the guts out of it. Anyone know if the swap is possible? Or will it have mounting problems? Thanks.
Sorry If I act a lil mad, but after reading this, I am kinda mad at ford for not making a smoother shifting trans. And I'm fed up with my trans. I'm saving for that T45.
------------------
1998 F150 Flareside
4.6L (unfortunately stock except for k&n filter)
5-speed
Lightning Wheels w/ Yokohoma tires
Lightning bumper
Sorry If I act a lil mad, but after reading this, I am kinda mad at ford for not making a smoother shifting trans. And I'm fed up with my trans. I'm saving for that T45.
------------------
1998 F150 Flareside
4.6L (unfortunately stock except for k&n filter)
5-speed
Lightning Wheels w/ Yokohoma tires
Lightning bumper
Grinding in reverse plus stiff-shifting into first are classic symptoms of a dragging clutch.
There are many explanations for a dragging clutch, which include:
- Warped Disc
- Non-Parallel Pressure Plate (usually caused by spring wear/damage/'set')
- Air in slave/master/line
- Wear in fork pivot(s) (causing a change in parallism between disc and pressure-plate with resulting contact of disc with pressure-plate/flywheel)
- De-laminated (de-rivitted, or broken) friction material (causing mechanical engagement with nearby rotating flywheel/p-plate)
- fretted/sticky pilot bearing
- driver impatience (failure to allow centrifugal force of disc to be offset by hydraulic resistance in transmission)
The bigger the clutch, the more centrifugal force, the slower things react to requests for quick changes.
Synchronizers can be designed for 'upon-command' shifting at any speed (got a motorcycle??) -- but motorcycles are also protected agains idiots down-shifting into the wrong gear at the wrong speed.
The first time you let out your clutch after downshifting into 1st instead of 3rd from 5th at 50 MPH, you'd understand why they're designed to protect you from yourself in the first place.
Regards, and happy shifting.
------------------
Y2K™ Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
[This message has been edited by Y2K 7700 4x4 (edited 03-11-2001).]
There are many explanations for a dragging clutch, which include:
- Warped Disc
- Non-Parallel Pressure Plate (usually caused by spring wear/damage/'set')
- Air in slave/master/line
- Wear in fork pivot(s) (causing a change in parallism between disc and pressure-plate with resulting contact of disc with pressure-plate/flywheel)
- De-laminated (de-rivitted, or broken) friction material (causing mechanical engagement with nearby rotating flywheel/p-plate)
- fretted/sticky pilot bearing
- driver impatience (failure to allow centrifugal force of disc to be offset by hydraulic resistance in transmission)
The bigger the clutch, the more centrifugal force, the slower things react to requests for quick changes.
Synchronizers can be designed for 'upon-command' shifting at any speed (got a motorcycle??) -- but motorcycles are also protected agains idiots down-shifting into the wrong gear at the wrong speed.
The first time you let out your clutch after downshifting into 1st instead of 3rd from 5th at 50 MPH, you'd understand why they're designed to protect you from yourself in the first place.
Regards, and happy shifting.
------------------
Y2K™ Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
[This message has been edited by Y2K 7700 4x4 (edited 03-11-2001).]
Thanks Y2K 7700 4x4 (Jim I think). I'll get my truck into the dealer for them to investigat the clutch and ask them if it is dragging. Now, about those synchronizers that you are talking about. I am not going to shift into 1st gear when I'm going 50. But Can I atleast shift into 1st gear when I am going 5. Are there such things as after market synchronizers that could help things out a little.
Thanks for the help Jim. Email me back at: tteten@hotmail.com
------------------
1998 F150 Flareside
4.6L (unfortunately stock except for k&n filter)
5-speed
Lightning Wheels w/ Yokohoma tires
Lightning bumper
Thanks for the help Jim. Email me back at: tteten@hotmail.com
------------------
1998 F150 Flareside
4.6L (unfortunately stock except for k&n filter)
5-speed
Lightning Wheels w/ Yokohoma tires
Lightning bumper
Just curious, I also have the same problems. I have a 2000 reg. cab. reg. bed, v6. I have recently gotten bigger tires but other than that, the truck is pretty stock. I have noticed, since day one, that my gas millage is pretty well below the advertised. I was just wondering if any of you with the grinding problem aare having problems with gas millage. maybe there is a connection? I know it's pretty crazy, but it could be true. Check out my other post about gas millege, https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000410.html . Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
------------------
2000 Silver F-150 XL Sport
Reg. Cab, Reg. Bed, 4.2L V6, 5-speed, 4x2
mods:
Tailgate lock, Generic bedliner
285/75r16 BFG AT ko (33.1x11.4)
Sony CD player, Blaunpunkt 5.25" speakers
Crimeguard alarm, Power locks
---------------------
Never let your schooling interfere with your education --Mark Twain
------------------
2000 Silver F-150 XL Sport
Reg. Cab, Reg. Bed, 4.2L V6, 5-speed, 4x2
mods:
Tailgate lock, Generic bedliner
285/75r16 BFG AT ko (33.1x11.4)
Sony CD player, Blaunpunkt 5.25" speakers
Crimeguard alarm, Power locks
---------------------
Never let your schooling interfere with your education --Mark Twain
anybody think aftermarket clutches will help?
Centerforce makes one for our 4.2 5speeds. see here: http://www.truckperformance.com/prod...ORD&sf2=2000&s f3=F-150&sf4=4.2L
let me know what ya think
Centerforce makes one for our 4.2 5speeds. see here: http://www.truckperformance.com/prod...ORD&sf2=2000&s f3=F-150&sf4=4.2L
let me know what ya think
5 speed 4.2 problems
Hello all,
I have a 4.2 2000 manual with trannie probs. I have been driving stick for over 18 years and never had a problem except for my F150. Third gear grinds and/or sometimes will not go into gear...these problems occur every third shift +- (even with a very slow shift w/ double clutch to boot). In addition, the clutch sticks to the floor periodically (every 7th shift +-). I will say that I did get the truck slightly used. Should new Ford trucks really need to be treated with TLC.....Not my previous trucks, but I still enjoy my F150.
I have a 4.2 2000 manual with trannie probs. I have been driving stick for over 18 years and never had a problem except for my F150. Third gear grinds and/or sometimes will not go into gear...these problems occur every third shift +- (even with a very slow shift w/ double clutch to boot). In addition, the clutch sticks to the floor periodically (every 7th shift +-). I will say that I did get the truck slightly used. Should new Ford trucks really need to be treated with TLC.....Not my previous trucks, but I still enjoy my F150.


