My pleasure, But did it help anything?

------------------
Y2K™

XLT SC SB 5.4L 3.73LS

 

I think it helped me a bit Y2K But does this mean when I tow other (bigger) rigs out of trouble when off-roading, I do this in 4Low and my truck doesn't notice the other rig stuck in the mud.

I still like my setup, no matter what you guys say! I don't pull heavy loads for long periods of time and all I need for a truck is for it to be strong enough to pull itself through harsh conditions. And from time to time pull other trucks out of trouble. But If I'd have a big boat or camper (whatever), I guess I wouldn't have bought this truck anyway.

 

Will the "notchiness" shifting into 2nd eventually cause premature wear of the tranny or is this juist the way the truck was designed? I can live with notchy if it won't harm the transmission.

 

Not necessarily; and probably.

The more reserve friction material, the more distance travelled -- hence the more opportunity to feel notchy. Another way to say it, the more the synchro wears, the less travel, and the less likely to feel notchy.

Remember what's happening with any synchro -- it is matching the speed of two non-matched-speed gears -- and must do so by dragging an inertia along with it. The inertia is the clutch disc. Sports cars and small cars use clutch discs that look like toys when compared to the disc on your truck. The less size (mostly diameter), the less inertia, the less torque required by your synchro during the shift -- (notchiness at a stop was described by my post on page one of this thread) -- and the less time required to bring the gears (and that darned clutch disc) up/down to the desired speed.

Small clutches change speed faster than big clutches -- no-$h|t, you say, but people don't know/remember that fact.

A 10 or 11 inch clutch takes a noticeably-greater amount of time to change speed than does an 8 or 9 inch disc -- and the inertia is not linear -- it is exponential in nature.

(Gee, for you 18-wheeler's out there, do you suppose we design transmissions to be shifted without the clutch by accident??? Our 9, 10, 13, 15, 18-speed trannies don't even HAVE synchros -- for you two-wheelers out there, that might be a surprize -- and despite this, they're warranted for 5-yrs and 750,000 miles parts&labor to boot!)

Bottom line: if you want a slick-shifting box, do what we did in the 60's with our 396's and 350's and 283/9's -- remove half of the teeth in the synchro packs and lighten the clutch. Life will be short, but you can make a WOT shift at 8-10 grand with nary a worry of missing it (some folks even did it WOT withOUT the clutch).

For your truck -- if you can make comfortable shifts driving it like you were teaching your 16-yr-old son to drive your new truck -- then the tranny's going to outlive the engine (unless you have that pesky crappy hydraulic slave-cyllinder problem of engagement-at-the-floor problem).

Live long, and prosper -- or something like that.

Happy 4th of July!

------------------
Y2K™

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

What is the problem you are talking about?

"the tranny's going to outlive the engine (unless you have that pesky crappy hydraulic slave-cyllinder problem of engagement-at-the-floor problem)."

Will this cause problems getting into 1st or reverse? My truck feels like the gear are totally blocked at times. Could this be the problem?

 

There's been quite a discussion here and elsewhere (it's not exclusively a Ford 'feature') where the self-adjusting (yeah, right) hydraulic piston/slave clutch mechanisms cause clutch 'drag'.

Ideally, they should engage smoothly within the top 20-25% of clutch pedal travel.

Some (many?) are either:

a) not consistent (top of travel once, bottom of travel next -- random)

or

b) don't disengage the clutch even when you're pushing your size-10's so hard that you're almost on your left front tire (humor, ar ar).

With a synchronized first gear (you've heard my thoughts on that issue) and a synchronized reverse gear -- it is often hard to notice that the clutch disk is not entirely disengaged from the flywheel/pressure plate.

Hard shifting complaints result.

Quickly-worn synchro's result (see thread by one fellow on third tranny under warranty).

Ok?

 

Makes sense. In my case it is more than a 1st and reverse problem. On some mornings I back out of the driveway and then stop and try to get it into 1st and it is blocked.

On many occasions all the gears 2nd - 4th feel blocked as well. When I try to get it to go into them the whole truck clanks. If I push in the clutch and let it out a few time I can usually get it to notch into 1st with a easy and slow pressure.

Can't be right but it is all that I have untill I can afford to get rid of this one.

Thanks for the reply.

 

I worked for Eaton Corporation back in the '70's and early '80's. I saw plenty of shelled out transmissions. Maybe quality control is better now, but quanity was the order of the day back then. I used to get into trouble by shutting down my gear hob when they went out of tolerance and they made me run "junk" anyway. I'm really shocked that they have the major part of the market share today. You guys must have really turned things around! Good work!

 

From your profile, I'm guessing that you worked at the Shenandoah plant -- and you'll remember that plant was created to take the overflow from Kalamazoo (which closed in '82).

Yes, a lot has happened since then -- not only did we fight off a copycat product (the patent for the twin-countershaft transmission was only good for 25 years) -- we've introduced automated product to boot -- and the Roadranger product is the transmission of choice for more than 8 out of 10 heavy trucks that pass you on the highway.

Stop by the old plant -- or check out http://www.eaton.com/divisions/truckop.html (Geez, I see we've misspelled Axles as 'Axels' on our own web page!) -- you'll be amazed at the technology and manufacturing accuracy today!

------------------
Y2K™

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

After owning two 5 speed F150s ('96 and '98) I gave up and bought a new 2000 V6 XLT with an automatic. The service person told me that the 5 speed's shifting forks are inherently weak and they will break unless I drive it like a baby. My son will get this truck in 3 years and I know he won't baby it. Its not really a matter of how you drive it....its a matter of when it will break. Automatics are BORING!

 

The only time my 99 5 speed F-150 shifts smoothly into 2nd gear is when i'm turning corners. Strange, huh?

 

I'm still a beliver in "simpler is better" and I plan on staying that way. I'd like to have that South American manual transmission and a mechanical clutch (cable and a lever and a spring).

And what's with the accountants controlling all the decisions any way? I hate their short-term view. Shouldn't simpler components be cheaper? Fewer complaints and warranty replacements?

If stronger parts are more expensive to source (and I'm not saying they are), I'd gladly give up my tilt steering wheel and cruise control and that ceiling console and compass and other do-nothing doo-dads in my '00 to keep the price the same.

[This message has been edited by Shifter (edited 07-12-2000).]

 

My '99 4.2/5-speed has been nothing but fun to drive/work/play in. The trans is a truck trans that shifts just like my '94 F-250 and my '96 F150 5-speeds did. I'm happy! Doc

------------------
1999 F-150
4.2L, 5-speed,
3.55 Limited Slip,
reg. cab, short bed, Sport Grill,
Pioneer DEH-P4000 CD,
Tinted windows,
"blacked-out" factory
rims,
255's in place of 235's (tiny tires!)
Delta toolbox
Superchipped
Factory Fog Lights
...more to come....

Wife: 2000 Ranger Trailhead Package
Black & Tinted
5-spd, CD, A/C, 16" 4x4 wheels & tires, 4x4 susp., Westin black nerf bars

 

Shifter,

I do agree "simpler is better" however if everything was so, you would be running into better vehicles w/a high rate of unemployed techs due no longer required.
Hence the reason for the "bean counters". Complexity of components (manufactured in some third world country) ensures the employment of there techs all over the country. If you will notice, component placement on newer vehicles make it difficult for an under the tree mechanic to work on, parts and technology will hold up to a certain degree and after that period of time ellapses will in turn require maintenance/replacement by their cert. techs.
So in other words, these "bean counters" must create demand which only they can supply.

On a different note...
My "Steed" is not a race car but a reliable to and fro' work horse. Therefore can overlook it's somewhat not so silky smooth shifting.

Thanks for the read.

------------------
"Silver Steed"
'00 XL flareside sprcab, 5 spd, 4.2 V6, 3.55 grs, cab step-up bars ("nerf bars"), graphite cloth 60/40 split bench seats, 255/70/16s, K&N air filter.
More upgrades soon (pay-check permitting)
Email: ferdi_n@f150driver.com




[This message has been edited by slvrsteed (edited 07-13-2000).]

 

same thing for my probloms look at grinding and tell me what you think. and do you know the # for ford executive office.If you do so send it to kk-doerr@home.com PLEASE

------------------
99 XL 4.2L, 3.55 Limit slip, Alum. rims,
Captins Chairs, Long Box
Headlight covers, Master flow muffler,
It is one hard working truck!!!