Insulating Enclosed Trailer
#1
#2
Wire everything you need before insulating.
Do you plan to do the roof too, or just the walls?
For insulating your walls, pull off a side panel. Measure the thickness of the upright supports for depth. Buy Styrafoam panels in the same thickness of the uprights. Cut them to fit between the uprights. Spray contact cement on the inside of the skin and on the back side of the foam. This keeps the foam in place as you reinstall the interior panels.
The roof is basicly done the same way except you will need to purchase some type of panelling, as most trailers have exposed roof bows. 1/8" ply or venier works well.
Marking the walls where the roof bows help you put your screws in the right spot. Make sure your screws are no too long as to poke out the roof.
Good Luck...
Do you plan to do the roof too, or just the walls?
For insulating your walls, pull off a side panel. Measure the thickness of the upright supports for depth. Buy Styrafoam panels in the same thickness of the uprights. Cut them to fit between the uprights. Spray contact cement on the inside of the skin and on the back side of the foam. This keeps the foam in place as you reinstall the interior panels.
The roof is basicly done the same way except you will need to purchase some type of panelling, as most trailers have exposed roof bows. 1/8" ply or venier works well.
Marking the walls where the roof bows help you put your screws in the right spot. Make sure your screws are no too long as to poke out the roof.
Good Luck...
#3
I used "Great Stuff" expanding insulation on the sides. Drilled holes in the panels and just filled the sides with it, took less than an hour to do a 6x12. But for sure get your wiring finished first cause once the foam sets its game over player 2. For the roof I used a thick quilted insulated headliner panels and it worked out fine. It was just a PITA to get it between the bands and the tin roof. It would have been real easy if I cut into smaller sections, but I was stubborn.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Last edited by Voodoochild; 03-01-2010 at 12:36 PM.
#4
#6
Hello fellas!
I would offer my approach to floor finishing - I used a roll of that vinyl 'checkerplate' patterned garage floor coveing.
I got it at our local Costco - I think you can get it at Sam's Club or other places.
It looks like this: http://www.bltllc.com/commercial_industrial_floor.htm
It's oil/gas resistant, washable, goes down easy. I used an indoor/outdoor adhesive - and did the ramp door with the same stuff. Nice & grippy.
I also looked at the square interlocking tiles you can get fer garages - but the cost per square foot was far higher. My 17'x7' roll was ~$170.
Just a thought, guys ... I really did not want to use a paint or roll-on product.
MGD v4.2
I would offer my approach to floor finishing - I used a roll of that vinyl 'checkerplate' patterned garage floor coveing.
I got it at our local Costco - I think you can get it at Sam's Club or other places.
It looks like this: http://www.bltllc.com/commercial_industrial_floor.htm
It's oil/gas resistant, washable, goes down easy. I used an indoor/outdoor adhesive - and did the ramp door with the same stuff. Nice & grippy.
I also looked at the square interlocking tiles you can get fer garages - but the cost per square foot was far higher. My 17'x7' roll was ~$170.
Just a thought, guys ... I really did not want to use a paint or roll-on product.
MGD v4.2
Last edited by MGDfan; 03-08-2010 at 01:47 PM.
#7
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#8
Yeah - that's the other reason - sealing those joints would be a pain.
The guys at Lowes said the stuff they have doesn't leak, but I didn't believe 'em.
MGD v4.2
#9
Sorry I missed your post a few days ago.
We use an oil based paint on trailers that get wet inside like snow mobile trailers. You need to have drains in the floor to let the water out though.
Big R has oil based tractor enamel that works well. I'm not sure how well it could be applied on top of another product that you already put on. A gallon is $26-30
I have used a roll on bed liner before but not on the floor. We use it on the walls about 2' from the floor to the floor on horse and stock trailers. We use the NAPA brand product. It works extremely well.
A gallon is about $80.
For a motorcycle trailer I would line the floor in aluminum diamond plate. Unfortunately 1/8" would be the minimum thickness I would install; and this is about $120 for a 4x8 sheet. Use a construcion adhesive to install and make sure to caulk your seams to get it weather and waterproof with 100% silicon caulk.
This looks real sharp on the Harley trailers and is very easy to clean up for oil spills/leaks.
Does this help?