Ok, I'm still fighting one last issue with my steering. The drifting is gone but I hit bumps and my entire truck shakes... the steering wheel rattles like crazy. I've checked the torque on everything and it is to spec. I'm dropped 2" or so in the front using the Belltech adjustable struts.

What I noticed what in some posts, people cut their tie rods when they go really low which tells me that the tie-rods are being turned to pull the wheels in. Now after the truck was lowered in 2012, I started getting toe-in and after many alignments for various work I had done, a tire shop caught it after I mentioned it. So I installed the camber kit (they said I needed one) and they got it close but still not fully zeroed out. Do you guys think that I need to turn the tie rods to compensate for the drop? The passenger side is worse than the drivers side and that side vibrates horribly over bumps at higher speeds. It vibrates the steering wheel so bad and none of this happened before the shocks, coils, and inner/outer tie rods were replaced. Do you think this could be causing the issue?

What's frustrating is the original drifting issues I had is fixed, but this issue that came after won't go away.


I will also add just in case: My shocks started creaking after the shop failed to tighten the LCA bolts. I tightened them but I greased the lower shock mounts after they said the noise was coming from the shocks. This cured the issue, but if I bounce the truck from the bumper, it still creaks, just not like it was when driving. Idk if that is the sign of a bad shock... just hopefully not since they're a year old.

 

I mis typed, it's actually negative camber that I have. I may trry elongating the alignment holes... just unsure about that rattling.

 

You ever replaced the ball joints? Both the creaking and loose over bumps are tell tale signs.

 

They shorten the tierods to get the toe back into spec. They end up being too long when you lower. As long as you did an alignment and everything is adjusted you have nothing to worry about with cutting.

 

Ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer) are all brand new.

The alignment still has too much camber... the top of the tires go in still. The banging over bumps is scary.

 

Find an alignment shop that knows what they are doing..........................

 

All four ball joints?

 

Yup, there's no factory pieces left except for the spindles, shock mounts, LCA (physical lower control arms) and steering column.

Rack is new, tie rods are all new, new Moog upper control armsw/ greasable bj's. Passenger side has a moog lower bj, drivers side is a motorcraft, new Moog coil springs, belltech adjustable struts, Moog endlinks and bushings, new brakes, calipers, hoses. I'm bull****. Essentially a new truck and it drives like poo.

 

are the hubs two piece replacements or factory 2wd style included in the rotor?

 

I just did the brakes... it's the two piece conversion but they made no difference over what I replaced other than brake improvments.

 

any way you can post a video of the shaking sound/feeling?

 

negative camber: elongated the LCA bolt hole toward inside of the truck.

then have the alignment done.

if the toe get's out of spec (toe out) you'll need to cut the tie-rod a bit. I don't know if it will be needed for a 2" drop.

 

I'll try Pat

I think I do need to elongate the holes... especially if I use a coil spring paired with these shocks to give me 3" next summer up front. I was thinking of using drop spindles, but I may go this route.

 

Ok so how exactly do I elongate the holes? I know I need to elongate them towards the inside of the truck but what do I use to do this? I'm hoping to do it Monday and position the LCA as best I can.

 

the best is a deburring tool on a die-grinder.
http://img.directindustry.com/images...70-2340465.jpg
forget about the small 1/8" dremel...you need the 1/4" one.

but you can do it with a simple 4" grinder taking your time and finishing the job with a file.
or drilling ..but it can be a pain.......or if you are really patient: file only :P