I called Roush and a few people told me not to modify/remove that Roush airbox as it is already very efficient

I'm also tempted to add a sexy CAI but I was told that I'd lose performance by removing doing so

 

I agree with Rambo. I would stick with the box. I've never seen one of the open set ups as seen in the lower pic that provided a good seal. Even when they touch the hood all the way the two ends generally have large openings where they meet the fender or headlight area allowing them to pull hot air from the engine bay.

 

Yep

 

New flex plate arrived this afternoon. This is a nice piece and it's SFI approved.

 

Being SFI approved its a big bonus. It should be very stout. I'd love to hear your opinion on how this one compares to the old one in size and weight etc.

 

Well here's the cracked factory flex plate. Crack measures 4.75" long. Impressive to say the least. A lot of difference in the the new one verses the old. For starters the new one is thicker, welded on both sides, has 9 welds on each side verses stock which has just 8 on one side, and it's platinum coated so it won't rust. Plus it meets SFI Spec 29.1.
Thanks again to RobertP for identifing this by just the sound coming through my cell phone and then sending me a link to this new one.

 

So I just added the flexplate to my list of upgrades when I get there. Good job on the latest times.

 

Telling you crank was turning and tires hooked and the converter couldn't spin fast enough to keep up. Guess when you make almost 700ftlbs to the crank off the line the flexplate designed for half of that can't handle it

 

Thanks MeanGene. Hope to improve upon the 12.4 run. We shall see.

As for the flywheel, the PRW part went in without a hitch. I'm sore from head to toe but it was worth it. Truck is back to normal and I hope to meet RobertP in Fayetteville in a few weeks to do some racing. Hope the temps will be good.

For those interested the PRW flex-plate weighs 7.9lbs, that's 1.9 lbs more then the stock unit. It is nearly twice as thick at 4mm verses the stock one at 2.38mm. It's a stout part for sure. Cold rolled premium steel, 9 robotic welds on each side of the ring gear (stock is 8 on 1 side), and it's platinum coated to prevent rust. Not bad for a $79 part.

 

Wouldn't doubt it. I launch by flashing the converter. No staging with a foot on the brake and gas. Just nail the gas on the third yellow. Converter flashes to 3400 and the jolt is amazing. Even spins the tires in the rims a little.
This has always resulted in better times.

 

2 newbie questions about the track
-how do you know when to floor it? half a sec after orange or at solid green?

-do you floor the pedal 100% or 75% then floor 100%? I wonder how the street tires don't loose traction, I know there is a quick burnout before but is that really enough?

 

I run M&H Race-master Drag Radials and Fatherford uses the Hoosier slicks. With the drag radials at 16 psi, the Caltrec traction bars just barely loaded, and the QA1 shocks adjusted correctly she will bite and go with only a chirp of the tires. 100% throttle on the third yellow. Leaving on the green will cost you big on reaction time. So you floor it on the third yellow. By the time your foot hits the floor and your truck actually moves enough to break the beam the light has already turned green.

Running street tires will result in slower 60' times but you can still make good time with them. It's just really tough to and it takes a few runs to figure out what works. As you mentioned feathering the throttle at some precentage until you have enough traction to floor it. I ran some 13.2 and 13.3's with my street tires on 9 psi of boost. By comparison the slicks got me a 12.9 on 9psi.

Here's a video focused on the tires as I ripped a 1.7 60' and a 12.7 run.

And in this video you will see me floor it on the third yellow

 

TwinSkrewd, have you thought about going to an 8 rib belt? Is it needed at some point in the evolution?

 

Sweet videos! I was always wondering if you needed to wait until green or giver on the third yellow. I learn SOOOO much just from reading what you guys write on here!!!

 

At some point I'm sure I will need to. Right now the 6 rib setup is performing nicely. Batn68 did a nice write up on switching over to an 8 rib complete with part numbers. Here are the part numbers he posted and the prices I found them listed at on the Tasca website.

A/C PULLEY (YB-542) $53.02
Alternator pulley F65Z-10344-AA (GP-720) $13.97
Power steering pulley XL3Z-3A733-AA $42.08
Tensioner 1L3Z-6B209-AA $46.30
Crank pulley XL1Z-6312-CA
Idler pulley F65Z-8678-AAA (YS-250). $33.43
Water pump pulley F6TZ-8509-AA $14.55