Big shout out to Robert P who I bought the Metco pulley from for a lot cheaper then list price. We also traded Whipple pulleys, he gave me a brand new 3.375 pulley for my lightly used 3.0" pulley. Also shout out to Twinscrewd for allowing me to pick his brain and for helping me out big time!

Started with this. I removed a Whipple supplied pulley between the blower and P/S pump with a larger diameter pulley to try to get more wrap around the tiny 3" pulley.


Pulling the old Crank pulley off


Size difference


Due to the larger diameter of the pulley you have to grind down some aluminium on the timing cover for clearance. I did more material removal then what was necessary but better safe then having to redo it.

Before


After (sorry for poor light quality on this picture)


Timing marks also in the way
Before

After


And finally the crankshaft position sensor has a rather large lump in the timing cover although it really isn't needed. I ground down about half of the lump. I didn't want to go to far and hit the sensor.



Installed the Metco pulley and put a bit of silicone gasket in the keyway. This is to keep engine oil from coming out the bolt hole. You have to clean off what factory gasket is on the bolt washer and crankshaft.



Every thing installed


Belt almost looks like its touching but its not



I installed 70mm pulleys in place of the stock 90mm pulley right above the tensioner between A/C and Alt. I also replaced the 80mm pulley between the W/P and P/S. Twinscrewd used idler pulleys which are 76mm and will work fine if you don't change the size of the Whipple supplied pulleys. You'll also notice the belt rides on the opposite side of the idler pulley between the P/S and W/P. Upon test drive boost instantly goes to about 9PSI then was about 10-11PSI at 80mph in 2nd. I need to dyno in 3rd to see what it maxes out at now and to get new power numbers. Hoping for 450+ with 2 more PSI, efan, and true dual exhaust since the last dyno.

Again I'd like to thank Robert P for great price and quick shipping and for Twinscrewd for answering any questions I had or giving some pro tips.

 

Nice work!! Can't wait to see your results. Glad to have been of help.

 

awsome upgrade

 

Nice job. Allot of work for a 'pulley up' thou.

Gee that crank bolt requires allot for spec eh!

 

Thanks fellas. While it was a lot of work for 1 more psi I now can freely go to 17-20 psi with Whipple pulleys making it a needed step for future upgrades.

 

Yeah needed for sure.

Do ya think this set up would take 16-20psi without driving through 'Slip city' ?

 

Twin and I were talking and a 3.125 would be atleast 14psi and 3" 15psi 2.75 16-17psi. Robert is having me send the 3" to an anti slip coating place that may work. If you can find a 8 rib it'd be best.

I'm not for sure if the ratio of blower to crank size is the same still. Where 3.375 is 8psi, 3.125 is 10psi and 2.75 is 12. The oversized crank adds 4 psi with stock pulley, not sure if it only adds 4 to the others. Twin said he tried the 3.125 and saw 16 so not 100% sure

 

your engine is built right?

 

Double post

 

I wish! Engine, trans, driveshaft, and rear end gears are stock. All I've done for power is 12psi Whipple, 47lb injectors, BBK throttle body, header back true duals and an e-fan.

 

Thanks TWINSKREWD & IRONS1N for the pics and help. I will be "attempting" this tomorrow. I can't wait to join the 12 psi club!


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Blower question:
Your Whipple = 2.3L, my Roush M112 = 1.85L

Because my M112 is smaller I guess I need to make more PSI in order to get to your guys HP level correct?

Would that mean that I could leave my current M112 at 14PSI? I read earlier that what's important is the HP not the PSI?

 

No problem Steve. Call or text if you have any issues. I'll be avaliable.

 

Specs on the M112
Displacement: 1.857 Liter
Max. Outlet Pressure: 2.0 Bar
Max. Speed Cont (inst.): 12,000 (14,000)
Flow at Max. Speed @1.8 Bar (26psi): 1360 cubic meters / hour
Displacement: 1.857 Liter
Max. Outlet Pressure: 2.0 Bar
Max. Speed Cont (inst.): 12,000 (14,000)
Flow at Max. Speed @1.8 Bar: 1360 cubic meters / hour

Yes in theory you would need to increase the speed of the Eaton to catch up. The problem is the power it takes to drive the eaton as well as the heat it produces the faster you spin it. Around 14psi is the point where you begin to experince diminishing returns with the M112.

The more power it takes to turn a blower or any other accessory the more fuel you need and thus the more stress your engine is under. The fuel burn and VE are the real indicators of what the engine can take. When I dyno'd at 475/532 my VE was at 170+ percent. My fuel burn was 6.1lbs per minute and boost was 12.2psi.

By comparison when I dyno'd with 9psi my power was 420/468 with a VE of 149% and a fuel burn of 5lbs per minute. The Roush blower at 10psi need 6lbs of fuel per minute to achieve the 420rwhp. I don't have the VE info on the Roush but it should be the same or very close.

What all of it means. A truck using a Roush blower at 10psi is burning the same amount of fuel to make 420rwhp as a twin screw does to make 475rwhp. The internals of both engines are enduring nearly the same stress. One is just using a lot more power to turn the blower. On a side note wheel weight is also a factor when comparing as the rotating mass takes power to turn and thus more fuel.

The question is often raised how much power or boost can a stock 5.4 handle. And the best answer is 6-6.5 lbs of fuel burned at WOT while maintaining an adequate A/F ratio. Usually 11.22-11.8 for these heavy trucks. BTW your tuner should be able to tell you what your fuel burn is at WOT.

 

Basically the roush is what comes stock on a lightning. Whipple is what most of the lighting guys upgrade too. Its why i purchased a Whipple. While your blower is awesome and will blow the doors off most anything 14-16psi is really the limit before thermal efficiency is a huge issue. You will need a motor before then anyway so enjoy the **** out of it now