600 WHP on a 3V?
#17
You better worry about them at that power level. Clutches will fry during shifts thanks to the torque and you will plow through the stock torque converter as well. (A stock torque converter has to lock up around 65-68mph to keep from burning it up with 400rwhp.) You will also be in rear axle twisting territory not to mention the drive shaft which twist up around 450rwtq. You don't have to do burn outs or 1/4 mile runs just pushing the gas to the floor will do it. I can do burnouts from 30mph with my mods. I can't imagine having an extra 100hp/100tq at the wheels. The engine will need better valves (stock ones melt at 1515F), valve springs, and ported heads to be efficent. Better radiator for cooling, 3" true dual exhaust, fuel system, 60lb injectors, SCT BA 5000 MAF sensor.
Back when I was driving/street racing my truck I never had any problems with the stock driveshaft/rear end with sticky tires.
I was also making 450hp/tq to the ground on 12psi with stock exhaust manifolds. According to the gods my engine should have melted away, yet I ran that way for years.
#22
Depends on the truck....
Back when I was driving/street racing my truck I never had any problems with the stock driveshaft/rear end with sticky tires.
I was also making 450hp/tq to the ground on 12psi with stock exhaust manifolds. According to the gods my engine should have melted away, yet I ran that way for years.
Back when I was driving/street racing my truck I never had any problems with the stock driveshaft/rear end with sticky tires.
I was also making 450hp/tq to the ground on 12psi with stock exhaust manifolds. According to the gods my engine should have melted away, yet I ran that way for years.
Basically towing 10'000lbs over a mountain pass will be smoking the drive line just as much as Hi-Torq.
300lbs'ft through the diff with 10'000lbs on the back. Maybe that same as 500 Ft through the rear light.
Also the wear theory of Hypoid gears comes into play. The truth on my 150'000 km rear end.
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