I've got a built 3V on an engine stand waiting to go in my truck with Comp Cams and a "competition" valve job. JDM thinks it will be over 450 at about 8 psi on the Whipple.

Something that has not been discussed which I think will be an issue at hight boost levels is the throttle body. The supercharger intake elbow might be replaced with one for a Mustang to allow a larger throttle body.

I stare at this (while dreaming about actually installing my engine) and ponder the intake parts.

Per JDM advice, I stopped my build below 500 whp (engine can take more) because I am not ready to rebuild my trani yet or buy the new fuel hat and pumps.

 

Sounds like a decent set up pal.

What's the specs? Any pictures?

I had my TB port / polished so it should be good for what I need. Also the Roush MAF tube is pretty big.

I was looking at a 2011 V10 TB that's on a scrap truck at work and it's a double butterfly set up. It's always an option.

Iam in the same boat as you, 500RW should entertain me for a while. Iam running stock everything.

 

Wow over 450 @ 8 psi if true u should make some amazing # at 20 psi,did jdm build ur engine?

 

This is why I'm holding off right now...If i'm pulling my engine you can be damn sure its going to have the best parts.

 

Amen to that! The way I look at it is, if your gonna spend $8000 whats another10-13% to have it exactly how you want or with parts that you have no doubt will hold up for years to come. Imagine going to all this trouble and money only to drop a valve or have a cylinder start puking oil?

I have thought about using my existing block and having a local machine shop get it ready. But theres lots of down time and it will end up costing what a short block does that has a warranty and is built by people who know these engines well.

What are everyones thoughts about this?... What if you bought the short block and used the stock heads with a nice blower cam? 15-17psi should lay down some nice power. Could probably do a self port job on the exhaust side and make some improvements. Would still have the 1600 EGT limit though. So maybe spring for some better exhaust valves...Thoughts???

 

Short / Long block all the way IMO. Either buy any engine, block or built lower assembly. School of thought is a high Mile block is better. The heating & cooling effect over time proves the block.

The other advantage of a long block is you will then have a spare engine kind of. After time I will sell off the original engine and recoupe some cash.

Originally our plan was to use the stock heads. Having a spare set it may be worth opening the exhaust side up and custom oversized valves. Am just amazed that a set of Manley exhaust valves is gonna cost close to $500!

Updated plan:

Gen 2 long block.
Manley Rods, -6.5's, Rings.
Mains / Bigends???
ARP Mains / Head studs.
FELPRO MLS.

Not sure on any head work. Not sure about Valves or Cams.

What kinda power level will push stock valves to melting point? Not sure if the Manley SS valves are just a Lap them in fit? Then what boost level / RPM will create valve float?

 

It's not so much the power level that does them in. The heat gets them. At 475-500RWHP I can heat mine right on up with 12:0 or 12:2 a/f. With a 11:2 or 11:4 a/f egts remain in the 1500's till I hit 120-125mph and around 125mph or 1600F egt the ecm starts adding fuel to cool things off.

All things considered you could run some serious power as long as you can add fuel or run a cooler stat to desipate some heat. I run a 170F stat now which helps a great deal with everything from detonation to heat soak on the blower to egt's.

 

Yeah I don't have a EGT Gauge so no idea what's being thrown out.

Might be cheaper to run Water/Meth ha ha.

Anyhow, Just awaiting the LB. I have a few avenues in Alberta that could possibly do the block work and custom head work. Open the EX port and either have oversize valve seats cut or just lap those SS valves in.

If its gonna be a ball ache I will just slam thoses heads on and plan for future $$$ to be spent. Another set of MLS. Already have ARP Head studs that can be reused.

 

I was planning to put better heads and cams on my stock shortblock but alldata said you have to pull the motor to r&r cylinder heads. I'm not sure why I figure if I had the gaskets and heads I could do it in a weekend no problem, but pulling a motor I might as well change the bottom end at that point

 

Befor I built my motor I did portted heads and cams and my mechanic
pulled the heads of without taking the motor out.

 

Yea I didn't see a reason to pull the motor but it said to. I dunno alldata is stupid at times

 

When I do mine, you can be darn sure that not only will it have a built bottom, hogged out heads, a big lift cam, and more boost, that I'll have a direct port setup in my Saleen blower to boot.

My transmission is built to handle whatever the hell I can throw at it, and that's what I'm going to do.

 

cheap. my build if i ever do it is gonna be 16k, priced already. THEN its tranny and differential time!

 

Are u waiting on ur motor to give before u go built? I'm sure when ur done
with ur truck its going to be very fun to drive, secially if a Chevy lines up next to you.

 

Nah, just have other money to spend elsewhere...

Want to put boost to my viper.
Want to get my mustangs back going.
Want to build a 40x60 shop in-conjunction with my 30x40.

Lots of stuff that is more important to me then spending 8-10k on building up the long block in my truck.