How to: Ford Lightning swap on a N/A F150
#1
How to: Ford Lightning swap on a N/A F150
this is my first write up so im sure ill have to edit it a few times incase i forgot something.
the first thing you need to do is make sure you have all the parts. here is a link for the list
http://madenterprise.com/scparts.htm
Another thing that is handy to have is a chiltons or a haynes manual incase you get stuck on a certain part when dissasembling the stock intake.
i used several aftermarket parts for my install, so if you are using all factory parts, yours will be a little different. i used a Trick intercooler tank, #4 to #8 coolant crossover mod, LFP lower pulley, EGR delete, L&S oil separator, Accufab throttle body, Air Force One intake tube, and S&B air filter.
you will need a complete tool set, a torque wrench, 2 different fuel line disconnect tools, air compressor, jacks, fan removal tool (rent it at advance auto), wire and wire connectors, a 30AMP relay, 20 Amp fuse connector, 7/16" and 3/8" fuel hose, about 5ft for each, use a bottle of motor oil to lube all the rubber lines and fuel injectors to make them easier to slide on.and a pillow. the pilow is good for setting on the header panel when you are leaning over
several months before i started the swap i installed my Heat exchanger, the intercooler pump, and intercooler resevoir. i just did this to save time for when i start doing the swap.
now for the swap. i would suggest running the gas tank to below 1/4 tank to make it easier to move around. disconnect the battery first then disconnect the fuel filler hose and the overflow hose. i used to jacks to get it down by myself.
support the tank with the two jacks, remove the two holding straps and remove them. slowly lower the tank and disconnect the fuel lines, two rubber hoses (its alot easier to just cut them and replace them with the 7/16" fuel hose later) and two electical connnections. remove the tank and clean it, so its free from dirt that may fall in when you remove the old pump.
install the new fuel pump
remove the two old rubber breather lines from the frame rail and replace with the new ones for the gas tank. lube up the connections with some motor oil, makes it easier to slide the hoses on.
and bolt the tank back in.
i went ahead and decided to replace the fuel filter at this time too.
start by disassembling the stock intake and remove the alternator, EGR brackets and where it connects to the exhaust manifold, disconnect all vacuum lines, throttle and cruise control cables, electrical connections.
here is how to undo the throttle cable. on the gas pedal just push up on the black plastic peice that holds in the pedal with a screwdriver. it should pop right out.
to undo it from the fire wall, use some pliers and squeeze these two black tabs together so it will fit into the firewall and push it threw.
remove the COPS, blow out around the injectors and into the spark plug holes to remove some dirt. disconnect the fuel line with the bigger fuel line disconnect tool.
i kept the fuel rails on the intake manifold when i removed it.
fill the intake on the heads with rags so you can clean out the spark plug holes.
mine had alot of dirt in them so i used a air compressor to blow them out and a vacuum to catch some of the debris.
remove spark plugs and install new ones. torque to 28ft-lbs dry!
clean the intake gasket area of any dirt.
install new gaskets and set the lower intake manifold on. torque the bolts to 19ft-lb.
install coil packs, injectors, fuel rail, intercooler lines and connect heater hose also.
remove the stock fan and shroud.
install alternator and alternator bracket.
the factory f150 alternator has a extra ground connector on it.
the lightning alternator is grounded internally, so dont worry about the small connector.
install bolt with spacer for the pulley bridge.
install pulley brigde
put on supercharger. torque bolts to 33ft-lb
and attach upper plenum.
attach throttle body and throttle cable bracket.
i used a LFP quich change lower for my lower pulley. it is the stock size 8# pulley.
install throttle and cruie control cables
i routed all my vacuum lines, attach the two new 3/8" fuel hose to the brake booster and the green nipple above it.
extend the IAC and IAT sensor wires so they will reach the new locations.
the first thing you need to do is make sure you have all the parts. here is a link for the list
http://madenterprise.com/scparts.htm
Another thing that is handy to have is a chiltons or a haynes manual incase you get stuck on a certain part when dissasembling the stock intake.
i used several aftermarket parts for my install, so if you are using all factory parts, yours will be a little different. i used a Trick intercooler tank, #4 to #8 coolant crossover mod, LFP lower pulley, EGR delete, L&S oil separator, Accufab throttle body, Air Force One intake tube, and S&B air filter.
you will need a complete tool set, a torque wrench, 2 different fuel line disconnect tools, air compressor, jacks, fan removal tool (rent it at advance auto), wire and wire connectors, a 30AMP relay, 20 Amp fuse connector, 7/16" and 3/8" fuel hose, about 5ft for each, use a bottle of motor oil to lube all the rubber lines and fuel injectors to make them easier to slide on.and a pillow. the pilow is good for setting on the header panel when you are leaning over
several months before i started the swap i installed my Heat exchanger, the intercooler pump, and intercooler resevoir. i just did this to save time for when i start doing the swap.
now for the swap. i would suggest running the gas tank to below 1/4 tank to make it easier to move around. disconnect the battery first then disconnect the fuel filler hose and the overflow hose. i used to jacks to get it down by myself.
support the tank with the two jacks, remove the two holding straps and remove them. slowly lower the tank and disconnect the fuel lines, two rubber hoses (its alot easier to just cut them and replace them with the 7/16" fuel hose later) and two electical connnections. remove the tank and clean it, so its free from dirt that may fall in when you remove the old pump.
install the new fuel pump
remove the two old rubber breather lines from the frame rail and replace with the new ones for the gas tank. lube up the connections with some motor oil, makes it easier to slide the hoses on.
and bolt the tank back in.
i went ahead and decided to replace the fuel filter at this time too.
start by disassembling the stock intake and remove the alternator, EGR brackets and where it connects to the exhaust manifold, disconnect all vacuum lines, throttle and cruise control cables, electrical connections.
here is how to undo the throttle cable. on the gas pedal just push up on the black plastic peice that holds in the pedal with a screwdriver. it should pop right out.
to undo it from the fire wall, use some pliers and squeeze these two black tabs together so it will fit into the firewall and push it threw.
remove the COPS, blow out around the injectors and into the spark plug holes to remove some dirt. disconnect the fuel line with the bigger fuel line disconnect tool.
i kept the fuel rails on the intake manifold when i removed it.
fill the intake on the heads with rags so you can clean out the spark plug holes.
mine had alot of dirt in them so i used a air compressor to blow them out and a vacuum to catch some of the debris.
remove spark plugs and install new ones. torque to 28ft-lbs dry!
clean the intake gasket area of any dirt.
install new gaskets and set the lower intake manifold on. torque the bolts to 19ft-lb.
install coil packs, injectors, fuel rail, intercooler lines and connect heater hose also.
remove the stock fan and shroud.
install alternator and alternator bracket.
the factory f150 alternator has a extra ground connector on it.
the lightning alternator is grounded internally, so dont worry about the small connector.
install bolt with spacer for the pulley bridge.
install pulley brigde
put on supercharger. torque bolts to 33ft-lb
and attach upper plenum.
attach throttle body and throttle cable bracket.
i used a LFP quich change lower for my lower pulley. it is the stock size 8# pulley.
install throttle and cruie control cables
i routed all my vacuum lines, attach the two new 3/8" fuel hose to the brake booster and the green nipple above it.
extend the IAC and IAT sensor wires so they will reach the new locations.
Last edited by str8t six; 12-26-2011 at 09:18 AM.
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#2
very nice! is it running yet? did you end up using JJ for a custom tune? Did you port the blower or anything? Id be very curious to see what both of our trucks are putting down...Im curious if you are getting much more out of that throttle body, intake w/ elbow, and the intercooler. Mine is pretty much all stock parts but I gasket matched everything above the lower intake manifold, and ported the stock TB. You are going to love it, the torque is unbelieveable, but get ready to spend a ton of $$$ in fuel...I still cant keep my foot out of it!
#3
yeah i sent the first datalog to JJ saturday, so ill get the revised tune sometime this week. i did port everything! i did the lower intake, mildly ported the blower and ported plenum!
i cant wait to drive it, but it wont be atleast till wednesday for me!! Do you have any numbers that your truck put out? people keep askin me how much more HP is it going to give me and i just dont know, because you cant go off the stock lightning because we have a higher compression ratio and i have modded parts too!
i cant wait to drive it, but it wont be atleast till wednesday for me!! Do you have any numbers that your truck put out? people keep askin me how much more HP is it going to give me and i just dont know, because you cant go off the stock lightning because we have a higher compression ratio and i have modded parts too!
#4
no I havent gotten it on a dyno yet...have been working on little issues trying to get it 100% dialed before it goes on they dyno. Im going to try having it reflashed by ford again and if that gets it, then I will go ahead and load the tune from JJ and get it datalogged. Then I will get it on dyno.
I just had the blower off to the the porting and got talked out of it for stock level boost so I just matched everything for now...once im ready to raise the boost level I will probably have POSI port the blower.
That being said, daily driving it, it is insane...I have embarrassed so many unsuspecting cars and trucks that had no idea (its so fun!) and towing is amazing for a half ton truck! Its funny though, as fast and fun as it is I cant wait to put the money together for a built short block, built trans and lots more boost!
I just had the blower off to the the porting and got talked out of it for stock level boost so I just matched everything for now...once im ready to raise the boost level I will probably have POSI port the blower.
That being said, daily driving it, it is insane...I have embarrassed so many unsuspecting cars and trucks that had no idea (its so fun!) and towing is amazing for a half ton truck! Its funny though, as fast and fun as it is I cant wait to put the money together for a built short block, built trans and lots more boost!
#5
according to my edge evo (corrected for 35's) my truck has done 0-60 in 5.5 seconds...its hard to get a good launch though as you have to very carefully roll into the throttle or you will just light up the back tires! honestly once I get it 100% right I think theres more in it, plus JJ's tune as well!
#7
Lets just put it this way...my truck has 4.10s, and I can absolutely MELT my 35's anytime...you CANNOT go WOT below 20-30mph without spinning...my truck actually surprised me, I was towing our offroad car and got stuck in traffic in socal, the other lane opened up and I JUMPED on it and merged over, the truck broke them loose all the way through first gear while towing 6000lbs...I was pretty amazed!
no I thought about it, and it would be fun around town, but the blower is LOUD under load towing 6K lbs over the passes I have to do and it would get old on the road trips I do
no I thought about it, and it would be fun around town, but the blower is LOUD under load towing 6K lbs over the passes I have to do and it would get old on the road trips I do
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#8
wire up the intercooler pump. i mounted the IC pump in the stock lightning location and ground the pump on that crossmember. i used the starter solinoid for the power and a 20AMP fuse. i used a 30 amp relay to kick the pump on with the ignition and used the 12V switch source from the trailer tow relay in the fuse box and grounded the relay on the body.
install
might want to post some pics of the wiring to help people out
#9
Lets just put it this way...my truck has 4.10s, and I can absolutely MELT my 35's anytime...you CANNOT go WOT below 20-30mph without spinning...my truck actually surprised me, I was towing our offroad car and got stuck in traffic in socal, the other lane opened up and I JUMPED on it and merged over, the truck broke them loose all the way through first gear while towing 6000lbs...I was pretty amazed!
no I thought about it, and it would be fun around town, but the blower is LOUD under load towing 6K lbs over the passes I have to do and it would get old on the road trips I do
no I thought about it, and it would be fun around town, but the blower is LOUD under load towing 6K lbs over the passes I have to do and it would get old on the road trips I do
#10
Lets just put it this way...my truck has 4.10s, and I can absolutely MELT my 35's anytime...you CANNOT go WOT below 20-30mph without spinning...my truck actually surprised me, I was towing our offroad car and got stuck in traffic in socal, the other lane opened up and I JUMPED on it and merged over, the truck broke them loose all the way through first gear while towing 6000lbs...I was pretty amazed!
no I thought about it, and it would be fun around town, but the blower is LOUD under load towing 6K lbs over the passes I have to do and it would get old on the road trips I do
no I thought about it, and it would be fun around town, but the blower is LOUD under load towing 6K lbs over the passes I have to do and it would get old on the road trips I do
im going to. ive been taking pics along the way, i just havent loaded them yet. i still have more to write.
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#12
no I put a 4r100 in my truck...its stock except a superduty trans cooler and a factory tech valve body...so far so good but the way I drive my truck I dont honestly know how long it will last, BUT I have a Lightning 4r100 sitting in the garage and planning on having it built and putting it in...just hoping the one in the truck now lasts long enough for me to afford having the L trans built and a nice converter
#13
yeah i wanted to do one because there really isnt much info in one spot about how to do it. there are alot of questions i had before i did the the swap and i want to try and help answer them for others.
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#14
here is how to wire up the intercooler pump.
wire up the intercooler pump. i mounted the IC pump in the stock lightning location
and ground the pump on that crossmember.
i used the starter solinoid for the power and a 20AMP fuse.
i used a 30 amp relay to kick the pump on with the ignition and used the 12V switch source from the trailer tow relay in the fuse box and grounded the relay on the body.
wire up the intercooler pump. i mounted the IC pump in the stock lightning location
and ground the pump on that crossmember.
i used the starter solinoid for the power and a 20AMP fuse.
i used a 30 amp relay to kick the pump on with the ignition and used the 12V switch source from the trailer tow relay in the fuse box and grounded the relay on the body.
The following users liked this post: