How to: Ford Lightning swap on a N/A F150
#63
Lightning swap
Im doing a lightning swap on mine ......list that used to exist got deleted any help appreciated
#64
#65
Ambient Charge Air Sensor
this is my first write up so im sure ill have to edit it a few times incase i forgot something.
the first thing you need to do is make sure you have all the parts. here is a link for the list
http://madenterprise.com/scparts.htm
Another thing that is handy to have is a chiltons or a haynes manual incase you get stuck on a certain part when dissasembling the stock intake.
i used several aftermarket parts for my install, so if you are using all factory parts, yours will be a little different. i used a Trick intercooler tank, #4 to #8 coolant crossover mod, LFP lower pulley, EGR delete, L&S oil separator, Accufab throttle body, Air Force One intake tube, and S&B air filter.
you will need a complete tool set, a torque wrench, 2 different fuel line disconnect tools, air compressor, jacks, fan removal tool (rent it at advance auto), wire and wire connectors, a 30AMP relay, 20 Amp fuse connector, 7/16" and 3/8" fuel hose, about 5ft for each, use a bottle of motor oil to lube all the rubber lines and fuel injectors to make them easier to slide on.and a pillow. the pilow is good for setting on the header panel when you are leaning over
several months before i started the swap i installed my Heat exchanger, the intercooler pump, and intercooler resevoir. i just did this to save time for when i start doing the swap.
now for the swap. i would suggest running the gas tank to below 1/4 tank to make it easier to move around. disconnect the battery first then disconnect the fuel filler hose and the overflow hose. i used to jacks to get it down by myself.
Attachment 33836
support the tank with the two jacks, remove the two holding straps and remove them. slowly lower the tank and disconnect the fuel lines, two rubber hoses (its alot easier to just cut them and replace them with the 7/16" fuel hose later) and two electical connnections. remove the tank and clean it, so its free from dirt that may fall in when you remove the old pump.
Attachment 33837
install the new fuel pump
Attachment 33838
remove the two old rubber breather lines from the frame rail and replace with the new ones for the gas tank. lube up the connections with some motor oil, makes it easier to slide the hoses on.
and bolt the tank back in.
i went ahead and decided to replace the fuel filter at this time too.
start by disassembling the stock intake and remove the alternator, EGR brackets and where it connects to the exhaust manifold, disconnect all vacuum lines, throttle and cruise control cables, electrical connections.
Attachment 33839
here is how to undo the throttle cable. on the gas pedal just push up on the black plastic peice that holds in the pedal with a screwdriver. it should pop right out.
Attachment 33840
to undo it from the fire wall, use some pliers and squeeze these two black tabs together so it will fit into the firewall and push it threw.
Attachment 33841
remove the COPS, blow out around the injectors and into the spark plug holes to remove some dirt. disconnect the fuel line with the bigger fuel line disconnect tool.
Attachment 33842
i kept the fuel rails on the intake manifold when i removed it.
Attachment 33843
fill the intake on the heads with rags so you can clean out the spark plug holes.
Attachment 33844
mine had alot of dirt in them so i used a air compressor to blow them out and a vacuum to catch some of the debris.
Attachment 33845
remove spark plugs and install new ones. torque to 28ft-lbs dry!
clean the intake gasket area of any dirt.
Attachment 33846
install new gaskets and set the lower intake manifold on. torque the bolts to 19ft-lb.
Attachment 33847
Attachment 33848
install coil packs, injectors, fuel rail, intercooler lines and connect heater hose also.
Attachment 33849
remove the stock fan and shroud.
install alternator and alternator bracket.
Attachment 33850
the factory f150 alternator has a extra ground connector on it.
Attachment 33851
the lightning alternator is grounded internally, so dont worry about the small connector.
install bolt with spacer for the pulley bridge.
Attachment 33852
install pulley brigde
Attachment 33853
put on supercharger. torque bolts to 33ft-lb
Attachment 33854
and attach upper plenum.
Attachment 33855
attach throttle body and throttle cable bracket.
Attachment 33856
Attachment 33857
i used a LFP quich change lower for my lower pulley. it is the stock size 8# pulley.
Attachment 33858
install throttle and cruie control cables
Attachment 33859
i routed all my vacuum lines, attach the two new 3/8" fuel hose to the brake booster and the green nipple above it.
extend the IAC and IAT sensor wires so they will reach the new locations.
the first thing you need to do is make sure you have all the parts. here is a link for the list
http://madenterprise.com/scparts.htm
Another thing that is handy to have is a chiltons or a haynes manual incase you get stuck on a certain part when dissasembling the stock intake.
i used several aftermarket parts for my install, so if you are using all factory parts, yours will be a little different. i used a Trick intercooler tank, #4 to #8 coolant crossover mod, LFP lower pulley, EGR delete, L&S oil separator, Accufab throttle body, Air Force One intake tube, and S&B air filter.
you will need a complete tool set, a torque wrench, 2 different fuel line disconnect tools, air compressor, jacks, fan removal tool (rent it at advance auto), wire and wire connectors, a 30AMP relay, 20 Amp fuse connector, 7/16" and 3/8" fuel hose, about 5ft for each, use a bottle of motor oil to lube all the rubber lines and fuel injectors to make them easier to slide on.and a pillow. the pilow is good for setting on the header panel when you are leaning over
several months before i started the swap i installed my Heat exchanger, the intercooler pump, and intercooler resevoir. i just did this to save time for when i start doing the swap.
now for the swap. i would suggest running the gas tank to below 1/4 tank to make it easier to move around. disconnect the battery first then disconnect the fuel filler hose and the overflow hose. i used to jacks to get it down by myself.
Attachment 33836
support the tank with the two jacks, remove the two holding straps and remove them. slowly lower the tank and disconnect the fuel lines, two rubber hoses (its alot easier to just cut them and replace them with the 7/16" fuel hose later) and two electical connnections. remove the tank and clean it, so its free from dirt that may fall in when you remove the old pump.
Attachment 33837
install the new fuel pump
Attachment 33838
remove the two old rubber breather lines from the frame rail and replace with the new ones for the gas tank. lube up the connections with some motor oil, makes it easier to slide the hoses on.
and bolt the tank back in.
i went ahead and decided to replace the fuel filter at this time too.
start by disassembling the stock intake and remove the alternator, EGR brackets and where it connects to the exhaust manifold, disconnect all vacuum lines, throttle and cruise control cables, electrical connections.
Attachment 33839
here is how to undo the throttle cable. on the gas pedal just push up on the black plastic peice that holds in the pedal with a screwdriver. it should pop right out.
Attachment 33840
to undo it from the fire wall, use some pliers and squeeze these two black tabs together so it will fit into the firewall and push it threw.
Attachment 33841
remove the COPS, blow out around the injectors and into the spark plug holes to remove some dirt. disconnect the fuel line with the bigger fuel line disconnect tool.
Attachment 33842
i kept the fuel rails on the intake manifold when i removed it.
Attachment 33843
fill the intake on the heads with rags so you can clean out the spark plug holes.
Attachment 33844
mine had alot of dirt in them so i used a air compressor to blow them out and a vacuum to catch some of the debris.
Attachment 33845
remove spark plugs and install new ones. torque to 28ft-lbs dry!
clean the intake gasket area of any dirt.
Attachment 33846
install new gaskets and set the lower intake manifold on. torque the bolts to 19ft-lb.
Attachment 33847
Attachment 33848
install coil packs, injectors, fuel rail, intercooler lines and connect heater hose also.
Attachment 33849
remove the stock fan and shroud.
install alternator and alternator bracket.
Attachment 33850
the factory f150 alternator has a extra ground connector on it.
Attachment 33851
the lightning alternator is grounded internally, so dont worry about the small connector.
install bolt with spacer for the pulley bridge.
Attachment 33852
install pulley brigde
Attachment 33853
put on supercharger. torque bolts to 33ft-lb
Attachment 33854
and attach upper plenum.
Attachment 33855
attach throttle body and throttle cable bracket.
Attachment 33856
Attachment 33857
i used a LFP quich change lower for my lower pulley. it is the stock size 8# pulley.
Attachment 33858
install throttle and cruie control cables
Attachment 33859
i routed all my vacuum lines, attach the two new 3/8" fuel hose to the brake booster and the green nipple above it.
extend the IAC and IAT sensor wires so they will reach the new locations.
How did you wire the ambient charge air sensor? I have everything else done but the F150 wiring harness doesn’t have the wire in the plug.
#66
Hi I'm new to this I have a 2003 Ford F150 5.4 that I want to do a lightning supercharger set up I recently purchased a 1997 Ford F150 that the previous owner did a lightning swap I bought the truck just for the supercharged parts I believe it has all the parts that I need to swap it out I'll post some pictures of it let me know what you guys think
#67
Hi I'm new to this I have a 2003 Ford F150 5.4 that I want to do a lightning supercharger set up I recently purchased a 1997 Ford F150 that the previous owner did a lightning swap I bought the truck just for the supercharged parts I believe it has all the parts that I need to swap it out I'll post some pictures of it let me know what you guys think
and like a ‘99-‘00 setup, hopefully it’s the updated intercooler
#68
The following 2 users liked this post by str8t six:
#69
Hi I'm new to this I have a 2003 Ford F150 5.4 that I want to do a lightning supercharger set up I recently purchased a 1997 Ford F150 that the previous owner did a lightning swap I bought the truck just for the supercharged parts I believe it has all the parts that I need to swap it out I'll post some pictures of it let me know what you guys think
#70
I'm getting ready to swap everything over next week is there anything else I need to know before I swap it what else needs to be done like what fuel pump to use and also like the electric connections for the alternator is everything the same do I have to switch to electric fans or can I still keep the regular fan clutch Style
#73
Hey bud how you making out wit the swap?? Im finalizing getting the rest of my parts for my Scab Build. waiting for a Heat exchanger and a few timing kits im gonna do before i install the SC, just cause i herd her rattle on my 93 mpt tune so i brought her back to an 89 tune and no more rattle, but i know that will change when i start beating her up and on original 125k mile oil pump and rollers and chain/tensioners it time to do. im am looking for an upper radiator hose though. just orderd a degas bottle from an 2010 gt500 since roush dosent supply the parts for the kit anymore. i bought a used roush kit off ebay and missing some parts. Hope yours is coming along.
#74
i went with a sct4 tuner and a 93 tune from MPT. ITs woke up the truck N/A tho i will say, but lil hard on the shifts im probly gonna do a valve body kit for mine soon but from what i read from the paper work when i bought the truck last year it was reprogrammed at the dealership and trans serviced and i believe thats what "reprograming" entails. Maybe someone can chime in on that term.
#75
i went with a sct4 tuner and a 93 tune from MPT. ITs woke up the truck N/A tho i will say, but lil hard on the shifts im probly gonna do a valve body kit for mine soon but from what i read from the paper work when i bought the truck last year it was reprogrammed at the dealership and trans serviced and i believe thats what "reprograming" entails. Maybe someone can chime in on that term.
reprogramming = correct timing table, along with MAF and injector tables for safe operation