Alright guys another question.
I had to get electric fans because my factory fan and clutch wouldnt thread on the new water pump (I guess lightnings have two diff size threaded shafts cuz it worked on the bent one I had) but I know the logistics of the wiring but need a little input.

First of all I hate wiring and its probably my weakest link, I have no clue about it but I'm looking for a place to splice into for the fans and the intercooler pump but all the fuses in my fuse box under the hood are always hot. Now when you say you guys splice into these do you mean underneath the box where the actually wires go through? Are they not constantly hot before they go in to the fuse box? Its gotta be a mess under there with all those wires.

Ive gone through plenty of posts with people saying they tapped into this fuse or that fuse with its exact location but mines diff since its a superduty.

Bottom line is Ive found multiple under hood fuses that only turn on with the ignition but how exactly do I tap into them? When I take the fuse out and just insert the wire to test it they always turn on witout the key even in the ignition (Even though I know some of those accessories arent always on, like fuel pump, brake controller, etc) I'm confused. Also can I put my fans and intercooler pump on the same one.

 

Fan will need to be on relay so one leg must go to battery other to a switcable which woul dbe low current.

Pump does not appear to draw that much current and I used the evaporator valve on top part of firewall next to brake booster. No problem after 60,000 miles.

Hope this helps.

 

Ok thanks, i'll see if my truck has that valve and just tie into that.

 

awesome build man. the last final touches

 

Thanks!!!

Got everything pretty much all the final touches taken care of tonight. Started it up and ran perfect, idled good and everything. I let it idle for a bit to make sure there werent any leaks or anything and also made sure the second fan turned on when it got to the right temp. Everything seems perfect.............. Except............. When I went to put it in gear to take it around the parking lot it bogged down really bad, went to give it gas and it wouldnt go anywhere, it just kept sputtering and then stalled. I started it right back up and idled perfect once again. but everytime I either put it in drive or reverse it bogs, sputters then stalls. I dont get it. I knew it was too good to be true that everything was good. Somethings messed up when its under a load I guess. Does anyone have any ideas?????

My buddies shop i'm doing it at has one of those expensive diagnostic things that tells you everything, even if you have your foot on the brake. But either way it had a bunch of codes for the tranny for some reason. But I didnt even mess with the tranny yet. Just had to put a new shifter cable in cuz my old one got stretched out. **** doesnt make sense!!

I'm hoping it has something to do with the tune. I just have a base tune right now so that it runs but I still dont understand whats with the tranny issue. My tuners coming down on sunday so like I said I hope its just something with that.

Im cluless, tired and have a headache from trying to figure what the deal is for the past 4 hrs.

I guess I should just be glad its running at least and there are no leaks or anything visible thats wrong. Still have my vacuum lines all rigged up but I dont know what to do about that. Both harnesses I have are all mangled and cut up and once there cut up they seem pretty useless. I need to start over.

One more thing. I have the egr delete and that plate on the drivers side thats mounted to the intake has all that egr crap. Do I need any of that plugged up? Theres like a sensor type thing that has vacuum lines on the bottom and I at the top, also has a spot for a plug. I have no plug to go in there so should I just get rid of it or do I need that? All the other sensors arent on the bracket, just that one.

Thanks,
Brent

 

Does your tuner know exactly what combo you are running? I would not think tranny would cause bog. If he gets the injectors or maf wrong it will not run anything close to correct. Stock injectors 19 lbrs and L are 42lbrs. Tranny for L is way different

. There are 2 connectors near EGR one for EGR and one for boost bypass. Unless you have L harness you will not have this connector. Basic function of BB will work. If you have NA ecm it does not have capability to drive it anyway. As far as egr, I would think engine would run ok. I believe tune is just required to optimize performance.

Hope some of this helps!

 

Yeah he knows my exact setup. He recommended half the stuff I bought for it. I just hope he missed something when he gave me the base tune.

Its just weird that it idles perfect and when I rev it up a bit its perfect also...... But as soon as I put it in gear it runs like total crap.

I dont know what would cause all the tranny codes either. I gave him my ecm 4 digit code so everything is based off my original tune and ecm.

I did notice a tranny cooler line was pinched a little but and I wonder if somehow if the tranny fluid wasnt going through the cooler if it somehow got hot and over heated or something causing it to act up the way it did. I hope I didnt mess my tranny up, I'm just thinking the worst which sucks.

Guess all I can do is button everything up and just wait till he comes over tomorrow.

Thanks for all your input CobraKit.

 

No problem. Do you think your converter is locking up too early? Ecm controls that too! Otherwise its problem an error in your load tables.

 

Well I thought today would be the day i'd be driving around my truck. But nope!!!!!!!!!! Tuner came down today and tried everything he could but nothing fixed my problem.

Ok heres the scenario......... I need help bad!!!

The truck is throwing a bunch of tranny codes, something with the 02 sensor I think and one side of the whole motor isnt firing correctly.

At idle it seems to run perfect. But when its revved up it bogs out bad and seems like its missing. The check engine light is on and the overdrive light is blinking.

When we reset the codes it seemed to run perfect but then the check engine light came on and the overdrive light started blinking again and started runnning like crap.

Also When we first start it and the computer hasnt recognized the error yet it revs perfect, but then the stupid light starts flashing again and it starts running horrible.

We figured a wire might of got pinched or something that goes to the tranny but I looked over everything and cant notice anything. Even went through every single fuse in the whole truck and everything looks fine. This is really starting to aggrevate me.

If its not the tune and seems to run perfect when its first started then what could it be? It seems like it is something so stupid that i'm overlooking but cant figure it out.

Whats the flashing overdrive light mean? When thats on its bad news. When its not on its perfect!!!! I'm pissed!!!



PLEASE HELP!!!

 

Your tuner should be able to tell you what connects some of these symptons within the software. A real strectch test would be to reinstall your stock injectors and maf , disconnect blower belt, install factory tune and see if everything is OK. If not wiring for sure, if it runs its definitely the tune! Now thats a lot of work. Others than that, if he's sure its wiring, then do a continuity check wire to wire.

Good luck. I know you don't want to hear this, but I got my tune via mail and it worked first time.

 

I think what CK suggested is the right approach for lack of input from your tuner. If it's still doing the same thing with the stock tune, then it does sound like a wiring issue. Is this the same transmission and torque converter you had in the truck before the swap?

 

Alright well the problem was all my fault. I cant believe I over looked this. I put a fuseable link into my fuse box for the fans and intercooler pump. The fans and pump were working fine but I guess the actual fuse that goes to the spot I selected wasnt working. It was just the faulty $5 part I got at Advanced........ I feel so stupid for not checking that. I guess I figured since the pump and fans were working that it had to be ok. I ended up moving that wire in the cab anyway to spot that wasnt controlling anything else. Everything seems to work ok now.

In conclusion everything seems to work perfect, I put around 13 miles on the truck around town and seems to be doing good. I havent really got on it at all because I still need to have the tuner check everything....... Plus my bypass valve is messed up or something. My power steering is whining like crazy too.... I let one of my suppliers use my truck as a demo for our new power steering flush machines and he ended up putting the wrong fluid in it. Shoulda replaced that at the same time as the motor swap but i'm gonna try to have them pay for it.

So thanks all you guys for your help. Couldnt of done it with out you. I'll stay updated when I get everything buttoned up. Still need to put all my gauges in and just double check everything, but for now i'm just happy it moves and theres no leaks.

I want to break the motor in properly too.... How many miles should I put on it until I really get on it???

 

around 1000-1500 miles before you really open it up

 

Good to here you found the problum.

As for breaking in the new motor. Every one will tell you something a little different. So I'll tell you how I did my new motor and was recommend buy one of the top L guys.
Start the motor,,let run up to normal operating temp.
Shut it off,change the oil. (if you haven't done it yet. after your 13 miles. Change the oil!!!)
Then for the next 100 miles don't run at any steady RPM. Always vary the rpm. If your on the highway let off,let the motor slow you down,
Coming up to stop light and all, drop it in second or low to let the motor slow the truck.
Change the oil after the 100 miles!
For the next 500 miles you can run it some ( not WOT) but get on it a little sometimes.
After the 500 miles,,,Change the oil!

After the 500 mile oil change I had my truck at the track! Running the **** outa it.

Phil

 

Thanks guys!!!

Ive been driving the truck for quite a bit now and i'm afraid to really get on it. When I give it some gas from a stop and when I get around 7 lbs it makes this horrible noise. Like almost a grinding noise or something, its hard to explain. Think my blower is shot? Bearings? Something that has to do with the blower itself? Normal around town driving and minimal boost it seems ok. Any ideas??