Man thats a tight fit .....

 

L's have 2 IAT sensors one in airbox and other on intake. You ECM only has one. So you would need to talk to tuner and pick which one you will use and he will tune to. Can't see the pics (firewall), but is the intake sensor on the passenger side at the front?

As far as vacuum concerned, not in shop manual. Only on decal in engine compartment. Do you have the stock L vacuum lines or are you trying to make your NA ones work? If someone you can get a diagram or if another truck is not available then we have to retrace.

 

The Intake sensor on the lightning intake is on the passengers side towards the front, on the side of the intake, not all the way at the front. So your saying either one will work (The one in the intake manifold or the one in the air intake) just as long as I let my tuner know right? Which do u think is better? Right now I have it going to the intake manifold but for some reason I think id rather have it in the air tube.

As for the vacuum lines I have both harnesses i'm working with, I tried both but neither were lining up with anything, between the factory lightning one and the original one they got all cut up cuz my buddy whos a mechanic just made em work so we shall see. I dont have anything goiing to the bypass valve though so i'm gonna have to find some sort of diagram or something. Plus I have a boost gauge that I need to hook up.

 

Not sure about sensor location. Been a long time. I can check tonight.

As far as IAT most go with airbox cause that's where maf is reading, but intake reads the temp of air going into motor. Both have valve. Your tuner should help you.

Everything I have seen on boost bypass says that it will not work with just vacuum. I have a diagram that shows an electrical signal coming from the L ECM which is obviously not on the NA. Mines plugged.

Boost gauge can go where in vacuum where the boost bypass was connected.

Hope this helps!

 

Yes that does help thank you. I know its hard to understand from what I type....... Its hard to explain something I really know nothing about. I'm going to see my tuner tonight so i'll ask him. I think I kinda confused you on what I was trying to explain.

As for the bypass valve there are two connections, from my understanding one is for boost and one is for vacuum so im just gonna have to figure which is which by trial and error I guess. I need to just look at a lightnings actual setup.

If someone could post pics of there motor with the vacuum routes it would be a great help I think. Maybe a pic of the front of the motor and each side.

Thanks guys.

 

This is right side only. I have a few more if you send email it would be easier.

 

Ok thanks. Yeah u emailed me some info awhile ago with pics and instructions but for some reason I couldnt open some of the attachments. Heres my email. BNS32600@gmail.com

Thanks, Brent

 

Here's the left side.




Phil

 

The bottom of the bypass valve goes to the intake elbow, the top port sees boost!

Wayne

 

emailed some more photos and I think a vacuum diagram.

 

Ok thanks guys.

Tonight i'm gonna work on mounting the heat exchanger and intercooler pump. Whats the best way to wire the pump in? Its gonna be close to the underhood fuse box so I was planning on wiring it into there somehow. Do I need a relay or can I wire it directly?

Also........ Not sure if i'm certain on the plumbing for the intercooler, H/E, reservoir and pump. Can some one help me with this to. I'm sure I can figure it out but just want to make sure its right.


Thanks, Brent

 

talk to built54 he can help you out

 

Any key hot wire. I found one next the brake booster (a solenoid) on the firewall I tapped into. Did not wan tto break into fuse panel.

Water goes from tank to pump to radiator (HE) to intake (IC)and then back to tank. Pump is marked. Hoses only fit one way to radiator. Make sure you get rotation of pump correct. Angled pipe on intake goes to tank, straight one goes down under to radiator.

 

Ok thank you. You guys are life savers. Hopefully thats all for now.

Should get my new water pump today (The one I originally got had a bent snout) so I should be able to get most of everything buttoned up under the hood. After everything is done under the hood then all I have left is valve body and then tackle my fuel pump wich for some reason I think is gonna be a pain.

Thanks again.

 

You could run it without valve body as long as you down get to rowdy with the gas pedal!!!! These trans are stronger than most think.

I did my fuel pump when the bed was off for another reason, real easy then. The actual fuel pump install is simply a bolt in. I assume you went with a single 255, if not then it will be a bit harder.