Component Setup
#1
Component Setup
Where is the best place to mount the passive crossovers for the components in the door? The reason I am asking is because I have the factory amp I am leaving in the truck so the crossovers will be after the amp. Actually, where is the amp located?
All info is appreciated.
Thanks.
All info is appreciated.
Thanks.
#3
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#6
Hey everyone,
I'm about to install a component set in my doors. First question, is there a kit that will let you mount the two speakers in the factory 5x7 location, so that it basically amounts to an expensive coax? If there is, do you have to go with a 5.25" size or will a 6" or 6.5" work? Second, do you have to use the included crossovers if you have a dedicated amp and you plan to run them full-range? And are the crossovers active? If so, where do you pick up power for them in the door? I know that's a lot of questions, but I've never used anything but coax and triax speakers. Thanks for the assistance.
I'm about to install a component set in my doors. First question, is there a kit that will let you mount the two speakers in the factory 5x7 location, so that it basically amounts to an expensive coax? If there is, do you have to go with a 5.25" size or will a 6" or 6.5" work? Second, do you have to use the included crossovers if you have a dedicated amp and you plan to run them full-range? And are the crossovers active? If so, where do you pick up power for them in the door? I know that's a lot of questions, but I've never used anything but coax and triax speakers. Thanks for the assistance.
#7
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#8
I mounted my x-overs behind the kickpanels for now. will probably move them later.
fodman3 - a 6 or 6.5 will work, but will require some mods to fit. there are plates availble for 5.25s. The plates I used were supposed to fit both, but no way a 6.5 would fit w/o modifying (cutting) on the door. depth is also a concern for a 6.5 As far as the x-overs, they are passive meaning they take a speaker level input and split it high/low. An active x-over is mounted b4 the amps.
fodman3 - a 6 or 6.5 will work, but will require some mods to fit. there are plates availble for 5.25s. The plates I used were supposed to fit both, but no way a 6.5 would fit w/o modifying (cutting) on the door. depth is also a concern for a 6.5 As far as the x-overs, they are passive meaning they take a speaker level input and split it high/low. An active x-over is mounted b4 the amps.
#9
#10
There is actually plenty of depth, all the way to the outer door skin. But if your speaker magnets are big, you will probably want to cut a bit towards the front of the door. The track that the window slides in does overlap the original hole by just a hair. You can see in the picture below where I cut the hole for my Infinity mid. The back end of the Kappa Perfect is pretty big, I'd guess that since they fit, almost any 6.5" will fit.
#11
Hey everyone,
Thanks for the comments. I don't know what I was really thinking about; I knew that you had to use the x-over to split to the mid- and tweeters. I just had a brainfart. I guess what I was meaning was, if I want to mount the tweeters alongside the mids in the doors, is this possible with a kit?. I'm not sure I want to cut holes in the door panels to mount the tweeters. Are there surface mount tweeters that could be taped/velcro-ed on instead of cutting panels, say on the A-pillar or on the outside of the door panel? I plan on dedicating a 2x25W Sony amp to the components, and having a 2x100W Clarion amp push a set of subs in the back. The trouble is, my Pioneer HU only has one set of preamps. Should I just split my one preamp to 2 amps and lose my F/R control, or should I send a front-channel speaker-level signal to the amp for the components? I really don't like doing that, but I may have to. What does everybody think? I appreciate it again.
Thanks for the comments. I don't know what I was really thinking about; I knew that you had to use the x-over to split to the mid- and tweeters. I just had a brainfart. I guess what I was meaning was, if I want to mount the tweeters alongside the mids in the doors, is this possible with a kit?. I'm not sure I want to cut holes in the door panels to mount the tweeters. Are there surface mount tweeters that could be taped/velcro-ed on instead of cutting panels, say on the A-pillar or on the outside of the door panel? I plan on dedicating a 2x25W Sony amp to the components, and having a 2x100W Clarion amp push a set of subs in the back. The trouble is, my Pioneer HU only has one set of preamps. Should I just split my one preamp to 2 amps and lose my F/R control, or should I send a front-channel speaker-level signal to the amp for the components? I really don't like doing that, but I may have to. What does everybody think? I appreciate it again.
#12
Most component setups are designed for surface and flush mounting of the tweeter. You would still need to have a small hole to run the tweeters wire thru unless you don't mind having a bit of wire show.
As for splitting the signal, consider a 2 way crossover to split the signal. preferably one with a sub level control.
As for splitting the signal, consider a 2 way crossover to split the signal. preferably one with a sub level control.
#13
ChuckM,
I thought of another question/alternative. How would a component set sound just being driven by the HU's power? The Pioneer I have is rated at around 22-25W RMS per channel, I think. That may be peak. The Sony amp I have is a 2x25W RMS. Would the sound be drastically different? I'm just still thinking in terms of simplicity of installation. I of course would rather "amp" them. Please let me know your opinion on this idea, if you would. Thanks again.
I thought of another question/alternative. How would a component set sound just being driven by the HU's power? The Pioneer I have is rated at around 22-25W RMS per channel, I think. That may be peak. The Sony amp I have is a 2x25W RMS. Would the sound be drastically different? I'm just still thinking in terms of simplicity of installation. I of course would rather "amp" them. Please let me know your opinion on this idea, if you would. Thanks again.
#14
ChuckM,
I thought of another question/alternative. How would a component set sound just being driven by the HU's power? The Pioneer I have is rated at around 22-25W RMS per channel, I think. That may be peak. The Sony amp I have is a 2x25W RMS. Would the sound be drastically different? I'm just still thinking in terms of simplicity of installation. I of course would rather "amp" them. Please let me know your opinion on this idea, if you would. Thanks again.
I thought of another question/alternative. How would a component set sound just being driven by the HU's power? The Pioneer I have is rated at around 22-25W RMS per channel, I think. That may be peak. The Sony amp I have is a 2x25W RMS. Would the sound be drastically different? I'm just still thinking in terms of simplicity of installation. I of course would rather "amp" them. Please let me know your opinion on this idea, if you would. Thanks again.
#15
IMO you are better to use the sony. I say this because the amp built into the pioneer deck does not have the capacitance that a seperate amp does. even though the sony is rated for only 25 more than likely the amp can produce a little more than that while the pioneer is at the top of its ouput. plus by using the x-over between the amps, the sony won't be working to produce the sub freqs and your componet set will play louder and cleaner.
Using the HU power is simpler, but if you already have the amp, a few more bucks is worth the effort.
Using the HU power is simpler, but if you already have the amp, a few more bucks is worth the effort.