So Im bored and the forums are a little boring lately, figured I would post up my install and how its going in the new truck.

Equipment:
HU----------Eclipse CD8053
Comps------Rainbow ProVandi CS265.25, being ran active
Comp Amp--Arc Audio XXK 4150
Subs--------Stereo Integrity Magnums-Two 12's
Sub Amp----Arc Audio XXK 1500


Power wire will be Kicker Hyperflex, speaker and RCA's are KnuKoncepts. Sound deadener will probably be Raammat. Havent ordered the Kicker 1/0 kit yet, probably tonight.

Anywho, here are some pics...

All the stuff going in, minus wire and sounddeadener:


RCA's all ziptied together...3 sets there


Wires soldered to factory harness. The red wire is a new ground I ran. You can see that I tapped my turn on wire into the gray wire also...the wrong wire. It was the only one that was giving me voltage like a switched wire should, untill the next day when I started driving and it turns off when I start driving. Turns out thats the speed volume wire lol. The wire that is SUPPOSED to be switched is only putting out like 1/4 of a volt and wont turn on my CD player, so its now wired to the switched delay wire. Has power when the key is on, and when its turned off till the door opens. So just like the factory, the radio will stay on till the door is opened.


RCA's and the radio harness I wired in. Covered in split looming.

 

Here you can see the new ground I did, the red wire. The two blue wires with the terminals are the turn on wires for each amp. The terminals connect to a switch I have for each one, so I can turn them on or off from the drivers seat.


This is the little thingy I made to hold the cigarette lighter and switches. It was a quick deal and needs work, I will most likely make a new, better one later on.


Here is the start of the component itstall. This is the baffle for the mids. Made out of 3/4 inch MDF. I made it pretty much as big as I could fit without having issues of running into wire harnesses and the door panel. Screwheads are countersunk, looks nice, was mainly because the self tapping screws werent long enough to go through all of the wood and the door panel


With the mid mounted

 

Showing the speakerwire. EVERY connection is soldered and heatshrinked. For the tweeter speaker wire I drilled a little hole right above the mid baffle and stuck some split loom through it, then ran the speaker wire through it.


Tweeter mounted, back side


Front


And finally with the door panel on


As you probably noticed, no sound deadening yet. I will, I just dont have the time yet. Havent even ordered it yet. Doors will be sealed as much as possible along with a good amount of deadening. Not sure when I will get around to it, probably not for awhile.

Arc 4050 is temporarily installed to run the comps.
Anyway, thats all for now. Enjoy.

 

Looking good mate! I envy your speakers...

...just a bit.

Say why didn't you go with the Kolossus Kable for power? I just bought another 30 foot to replace my scosche wiring.

 

Looks good. Can't wait till you try out the pair of Mag's on the 1500XXK.

 

Nice install so far Bartak. I'm a little behind you, still sound deadening and making 1/4" mdf covers to fill in the large holes.

On your 3/4 inch mid bass baffle, did you have to trim any of the back of the door cover to get it back on? If so, about how much did you have to remove?

KRAugs

 

Thanks guys.

Impact, I was going to go with all Knu, but I found this Kicker 1/0 kit with everything I need for only 100 bucks. I think if I bought everything in that kit separate from Knu it would be well over 100 bucks. It comes with 25ish ft. of 1/0, 10 ft. 4 gauge, two distribution blocks, ANL fuse holder, terminals and some other things.

Augs, all I had to trim was 3/4's of an inch off the oval shaped part that the stock speaker fit right into. I was a little worried about it fitting too, but I didnt have any problems at all.
You should snap a few pics of covering up those holes. I really havent looked at that at all. I just know I want to sound deaden all around it, then cover a MDF board with deadener and screw it over the hole, so if I need to get in the door, all I have to do is take out the four or so screws holding on the MDF and I have full access to the inside of the door.

D, I want those things in bad. Im still trying to figure out how Im going to do the angled front. No table saw to make the nice cuts, and the circular saw I usually use is so old I dont think the base even tilts for angles

 

What are the switches for?

 

They are on the turn on wires so I can turn either amp on or off.

 

I am a noob, why would you turn the amps off?

 

Helps me when Im messing around with setting things up (Im always playing with settings), if I have the engine off with the key on I will turn the subs off so it doesnt drain the battery so fast, some people dont even like the subs so Ill turn them off, if Im playing test tones I turn off the comp amp, trying to pinpoint rattles is a lot easier with just the subs on........there are lots of reasons I will turn one or the other off.

 

Where did you get it from? I'm ready to order..........

 

Take a look at dynaplate it's meant to cover those holes in doors. I buy from dynamat extreme from this guy on ebay and his prices are great. Grant it even as his price it's still rather expensive. Secondskin or elemental designs might have a comparable product.

http://stores.ebay.com/Sounds-Great_...3aUSQ3a3QQtZkm

 

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=24

eDead = Win.

 

I'll get pics of my 1/4" mdf and how I attach them with self threading sheet metal screws, and post them.

Bartak are you crossing with your amps? I didn't see any passive xovers in your pics above.

If you are running passive xovers, where are you going to put them?

FinishCarpenterAugs